Hi, new bee keeper waiting for two sets of bees to come in early April. I’m presently fixing the foundations and have a few questions. I have bought most of my new supplies from Brushy Mountain Bee farm in North Carolina. The people there have been extremely nice and very helpful. I’m using the crimp wire foundations for my deep and shallows. I have been putting in 2 support pins (on each side) in the 9 1/8 supers but I have not been putting any support pins in the shallows. Are the shallows supported enough by the crimp wire or do I need to use pains with those also? I am only using two of the four holes on the supers â€" is this enough support?
I am keeping the bee hives in my basement (temperature is approximately 50°) for the time being. I suppose that is OK or should I worry about the wax foundations sitting there for six or seven weeks without being brought out? I also bought the plastic frame hive top feeder. I am not sure how it goes on because when I put on the top, I do not believe that the bees would have any room to fly up from below to feed in the feeder. What am I doing wrong? I was also wondering if anyone could specifically tell me what brand of electric fence they bought to keep out skunks, raccoons and coyotes (cheap is okay). Nothing too powerful -lots of kids around. Thanks for your help â€" hopefully someday I will have learned enough about bees to help somebody else.
I like to use wire instead of pins. The wire holds the foundation better and holds the comb in place. You can get wire and a spur embedder from Brushy mt.
I'm pretty sure the bees get to the feeder from the inside.
I keep my hives on concrete blocks 2 blocks high. I haven't had any problems with these kinds of animals. I use an electric fence to keep the horses out. I've heard of people using electric to keep bears out.
You'll be answering questions in no time.
Is the hive top feeder the brown one that has the 2 white pieces on the ends?
If so, it just sets on the top of the bee box. I set mine on top and then just put the lid on..no inner cover. The biggest problem people have with these type feeders is "Drowned bees".. Be sure to press the white strips down nice and tite and be sure that they go in along the little pins on the bottom(these are tiny pegs that stick up from the tray) If the white strips arent all the way down the bees will crawl under them, up over the hump, into the sugar syrup and WILL drown...If the white parts arent down correctly you will know as soon as you open the top to check your feed, as there will be bees floating. Once i fugured out about the white pieces going down all the way I didnt drown any bees and the feeder works good.
your friend,
john
Check out Harbor Freight for the electric fence. They have one for about $60 that can handle 3-5 miles of fence.
Mike
Ok , found the link for the elec fence.
Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com)
Item # 47454-1URH
Price is $59.99 plus shipping.
Hope this helps
This one is only $22.38 from tractor supply (2 mile coverage)
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_36225_-1______|32056?rFlag=true&cFlag=1
Quote from: jimmyo on February 22, 2008, 10:43:40 PM
I like to use wire instead of pins. The wire holds the foundation better and holds the comb in place. You can get wire and a spur embedder from Brushy mt.
I'm pretty sure the bees get to the feeder from the inside.
I keep my hives on concrete blocks 2 blocks high. I haven't had any problems with these kinds of animals. I use an electric fence to keep the horses out. I've heard of people using electric to keep bears out.
You'll be answering questions in no time.
In cooler temps foundation held with just pins will break, chip, or shatter. Wire does a much better job of helping the foundation retain its integrity.