This probably seems like a dumb question, but I have limited tools in my wood shop, and am wondering if there are different way to make box joints. I have a handheld circular saw that I'm planning on using to cut into the boards with, but then I'm planning to use a chisel to actually cut out the wood to finish it. I can't really figure out any other way without a table saw or router or something... but maybe you know a way?
I just cut and butt together. Let the long side come over the end of the end board.
then your frame rest will be no problem.
Also use a good wood glue and drill pilot holes for the nails. helps keep the wood from splitting and guides the nails. I don't have a set up for joints my self. I have a dove tail temp plate but have never got around to setting it up.
hope this helps.
doak
I actually really wanted to avoid the nails... purely for asthetic purposes... and my modified design will allow me to do that and still hold together just fine.
Quote from: SgtMaj on June 29, 2008, 12:09:28 AM
I'm planning to use a chisel to actually cut out the wood to finish it.
A handsaw and chisel. Isn't that how traditional dovetails are done?
Quote from: Robo on June 29, 2008, 07:36:13 AM
A handsaw and chisel. Isn't that how traditional dovetails are done?
I have no idea actually. I've never attempted dovetails.
You can buy a good coping saw for about $8 at most home improvement stores. Its the easiest hand tool to cut sharp inside corners like a box joint. Trace out the joint cuts with the ends of the two sides butted flat against each other on a table so they line up perfectly. You can use a block of wood the size of the joint to trace and then just move it up the box. The coping saw will usually cut quickly in soft wood like pine and cedar. It cuts around corners, but if this is difficult just cut across the cutout in diagonal lines corner to corner and then cut the back.
This works good if you aren't in a big hurry to get it done. Hand tools can take longer but the finished results are good, Less chance of ruining some good wood if you slip with a table saw or router.
Barry
Just remember, you don't want that hive to fall apart a year from now just as you are picking it up. I use a rabbit joint, glue and deck screws.
Well if your only making one at a time I guess that would work fine, I'm going to lowes in a bit to get a new table saw. the old one is too weak. They got nicer ones ,,cheap,, on sale right now. under 100 bucks. need more power.. ew ew ew..
I tried different ways by the way, they came out so crooked, I was just wasting wood.
Quote from: MustbeeNuts on June 29, 2008, 11:38:42 AM
Well if your only making one at a time I guess that would work fine, I'm going to lowes in a bit to get a new table saw. the old one is too weak. They got nicer ones ,,cheap,, on sale right now. under 100 bucks. need more power.. ew ew ew..
I tried different ways by the way, they came out so crooked, I was just wasting wood.
I wonder if I shouldn't just break down and get one.... seems like it would be the easiest, and might produce the best results.
Under a $100? More power? You're kidding yourself. Go find at least a Delta contractors saw, belt driven. The direct drive saws are not meant to swing a dado stack. Craigslist is a good starting place. You can buy a better saw, used, for the money.
you could do well with your circular saw and a router. a good router is cheaper than a good table saw and you could rabbit your boxes.
Quote from: randydrivesabus on June 30, 2008, 10:18:59 AM
you could do well with your circular saw and a router. a good router is cheaper than a good table saw and you could rabbit your boxes.
Yes, you can make half-blind dovetails quite quickly and easily with a router.
http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,1525.msg35529.html#msg35529
It's slow but I make mine with a table saw. Set your depth a make a whole lot of passes.
Just curious, but wouldn't the price of the wood that you need to buy be more expensive than an already-milled box kit from someplace like dadant? Now if you're just a hardcore DYI-er, I guess it doesn't matter.
I buy rough cut pine from a local mill. It is cheaper if you don't take into account the labor, but woodworking is a relaxing time for me :lol:.
Quote from: madscientist on July 22, 2008, 02:12:02 PM
Just curious, but wouldn't the price of the wood that you need to buy be more expensive than an already-milled box kit from someplace like dadant? Now if you're just a hardcore DYI-er, I guess it doesn't matter.
Depends on your situation I guess. For me, I'm a carpenter and often have extra peices and scraps of wood after jobs that I would rather put to good use than burn or toss. Also sometimes you just need something in a hurry and can't/ don't want to wait for shipping, so you make your own.
Quote from: madscientist on July 22, 2008, 02:12:02 PM
Just curious, but wouldn't the price of the wood that you need to buy be more expensive than an already-milled box kit from someplace like dadant? Now if you're just a hardcore DYI-er, I guess it doesn't matter.
Not really, especially if you have to add shipping. I can buy a 1x8x8 at HD for $7.35 make one medium super and have a board left over thats long enough for a side on another super(for every 3 boards you buy you get 4 supers).But back to comparing apples to apples. $7.35+tax(.07)=$7.86 Brushy Mt. medium super is $9.99+shipping($8.78)=$18.77 I showed my work so no one could say it's "fuzzy math."
Also depends on how close you are to a lumber source... gas counts these days. I have one very close to my work office, so gas isn't an issue for me. But for others it might be.