glue a couple boards together to get the 9 and 5/8 width of a super and will exterior glue hold up? I have a lot of extra boards to use up.
Works fine if you get a good glue joint. For extra support, plan it so your handhold clete is right on top of the glue joint.
its a lot of work but it should work especially if you stagger the joints on the edge where it meets the other board when you assemble.
Do a nice tight box joint and glue it :-D
I've used finger joints before. A little extra work, but does a real good job. If you enjoy woodworking it is no big deal.
http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,2199.msg11570.html#msg11570
I just disassembled a badly put together box to fix it. I had it glued together (it also had box joints), but not nailed or screwed together... and let me just say, it was surprising to me how easily it came apart. I would not want to hold a glue-only box filled with honey.
For sure use glue though, just make sure you reinforce it with nails or screws.
I'm just a beginning woodworker, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
I will be building boxes this winter, mediums and a top bar hive. What I have learned from my mentor and some experience building cabinets is that a tight glue joint requires clamping and/or screwing before the glue sets. After planing for an even thickness, we run the boards through a jointer before gluing and make sure the joints are tight and even during the setup, then do a final sanding before assembly. I may use the dovetail jig just to get more experience setting it up but likely will go with squared butt joints for the corners, exterior glue, screws, and exterior paint. In my experience, with properly clamped and glued joints, the wood breaks before the joints do.
Good luck!
end grain can be difficult to glue properly as the glue is sucked up into the wood. and eri is correct that for glue to hold properly it must be clamped according to the directions on the glue bottle.
Maybe I'm using he wrong glue then, 'cause it took nothing, maybe 250lbs of pressure to break that joint apart, and for the most part, the glue failed before the wood. What little wood that did chip off was next to nothing. I'm just using plain wood glue.
as stated joints need to be clamped while wet or nailed / screwed. It does little good to do this after it sets up. Also breaking apart a good glue joint cant be done. The wood will splinter before the glue breaks. As for the kind of glue there are many. They should be water proof for exterior
plain wood glue should hold very well...maybe not long term under wet conditions but it doesn't sound like that was the case. how long was it clamped for and how was it clamped?
Quote from: randydrivesabus on August 14, 2008, 04:17:43 PM
plain wood glue should hold very well...maybe not long term under wet conditions but it doesn't sound like that was the case. how long was it clamped for and how was it clamped?
I used heavy duty C clamps to clamp them with... and I clamped them vertically across the joint... for about 12 hours each joint while the glue set up and dried. Maybe I should have let them stay clamped for 24 hours... but I suspect it is more a matter of glue just NOT being as strong.
i usually clamp for 24 hours with pipe clamps and use a lot of glue so i have to wipe off the squeeze-out. i've used wood glue that had been through some freezes and that killed it. but it sounds like in your case it worked out better that it came apart.
I use Gorilla Glue, weatherproof and water proof. And if joining (for instance) 2 pieces of 1x4 to get a 1x8 i use biscut joints :)
I would use biscuits, but it's kinda hard to put them in box joints. I thought about using dowel on one side, or possibly down the middle like a hinge, but then I thought screws would be better, and with a little bondo, you can't even see the screws.