I'm hoping some of you can help clarify my thinking about modifying 8 or 10 frame medium boxes to use as nucs.
The goal is to keep all woodenware the same so I can handle it alone, and repurpose as needed. If I understand the purpose of a nuc is to confine the bees to raise a queen or provide a newly mated queen with a minimal "court" and give a new colony some brood to kickstart a hive then that is the basis for the idea. Take a standard medium but use only 3-5 frames in the middle, on the sides use solid frames to reduce the space. Once the original frames are fully drawn, remove the solid wood frames and replace with open frames to expand the area.
What is wrong with this picture?
it would be easier to use 5 frames on one side then you only have to block off with one divider. make the entrance so they can only get in/out on your 'good' side and cover the top of the unused side so they can't get in from the top.
I agree with randy. A divider would be best. Solid would frames would drastically increase the weight. Which sounds like a factor to you.
Why couldn't he use frames with foundation only instead of blocking one side off, or using solid wood frames?
Quote from: SgtMaj on July 24, 2008, 04:25:21 AM
Why couldn't he use frames with foundation only instead of blocking one side off, or using solid wood frames?
Your not limiting the space by installing frames with foundation.
But the bees won't guard empty foundation though, right? So what's the point in reducing the size if you can reduce the area they need to guard while still providing them with a place to expand into, should they suddendly build up quickly.
It's more than just guarding, it is about maintaining the temperature and humidity in the brood area. Also, ees will chew up foundation in they aren't looking to draw comb.
If you're using plasticell foundation, they can't chew it up, right? Plus, won't the bees covering the frames be enough to maintain temp. on the brood, and open space could only serve to lower humity by diluting it in more air, right? Or am I missing something here?
Thanks, Randy and Robo. A single divider frame with a top to cover the remaining space makes much more sense for the reasons you stated. I'm thinking, too, of a couple of screws to temporarily attach the divider frame to the box so that frame would not pull out if propolized when the top cover is removed.
SgtMjr, reading http://www.bushfarms.com/beesnucs.htm might answer some of your questions.
With the middle divider, you could also put two nucs in the same box, then break them up when they outgrew their space.
>I'm hoping some of you can help clarify my thinking about modifying 8 or 10 frame medium boxes to use as nucs.
First keep in mind that an eight frame medium is exactly the same volume as a five frame deep nuc box. So if you're trying to get the equivalent of a five frame deep nuc box, you already have that.
>The goal is to keep all woodenware the same so I can handle it alone, and repurpose as needed. If I understand the purpose of a nuc is to confine the bees to raise a queen or provide a newly mated queen with a minimal "court" and give a new colony some brood to kickstart a hive then that is the basis for the idea. Take a standard medium but use only 3-5 frames in the middle, on the sides use solid frames to reduce the space. Once the original frames are fully drawn, remove the solid wood frames and replace with open frames to expand the area.
The only problem with dividing is getting a bee proof seal. This requires either a groove in the box for the divider to fit in or a really good seal (usually from hardware cloth) around the divider. If you use 1/4" Luan you can get three two frame nucs or two four frame nucs from one eight frame medium. The other issue is the bees spilling over from one side to the other. I use canvas inner covers for this, but you could also make this out of 1/4" luan or out of old political signs.
Quote from: eri on July 24, 2008, 09:28:27 AM
SgtMjr, reading http://www.bushfarms.com/beesnucs.htm might answer some of your questions.
Now that I've had a chance to read it fully... it didn't really answer my questions. Guess it's just something I'll have to try for myself.
Thank you for the suggestions. Geez, I wish I'd started with mediums instead of the 2 deeps that were recommended where I got the bees, I would have many more options going forward!
I want also to understand about the canvas inner covers -- and inner covers in general -- in another thread.
(http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/nuc1.jpg)
(http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/nuc2.jpg)
(http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/nuc3.jpg)
(http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/nuc4.jpg)
(http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/nuc5.jpg)
Add screen for the bottom. I use two individual tops.
Good clear photography Ross.
One small addition would be to add a second entrance at the rear of the hive/nuc. so that two colonies could work from the same hive body. This way there would be no trouble with guard bees. Although I've never seen guard bees turn away a laden worker bee.
WAY MODIFY 8 frame medium is the same volume as a 5 frame deep nuc's
BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
It already has two entrances, one on each end, opposite sides. You can use the same bottom board for a full hive as well. Just remove the divider and slide the hive body back flush with the rear board. It opens the front all the way across. You can stuff the rear entrance if you want.