I would like some input on open feeding.
If you do it, why? What are the benefits to doing that?
Is that in addition to feeding in the hive or as the sole method of feeding.
When do you do open feeding?
I have heard that you have to feed 50 feet from the hives, is that accurate?
What do you feed them when you do this, pollen, sugar water, honey bee healthy etc.?
Do you use more than one feeding station with different things in it, for example, sugar syrup in one, pollen in the other...
What about robbing?
I can't think of any more questions right now, but you get the idea, I would like any information regarding the concept.
Thanks.
i use quail feeders. probably about 100 ft from hives. i feed syrup with a little lemon grass or lavender oil in it. it's easier than putting individual feeders on each hive. i don't have to open hives to feed.
it may not be the sole form of feeding. if they look like they need extra attention, i'll put feeders on all hives in the early spring. that way they each get a gallon or so and i can see who is taking it and who is not.
My thoughts. I think open feeding attracts too much other unwanted stuff.
We even try to have the kind of humming bird feeders that don't attract bees.
Plus, the bird feeder being red helps because of the spectrum. :)doak
I have hives in 4 yards within 1/2 mile of my house. I open feed on a shelf under the eave of my back porch. I can mix the sugar water and change the jars right outside my back door. It is far enough away from the hives to not cause robbing. I don't have children using the back door, and I don't mind feeding the feral hives.
I open feed nothing but sugar water. I put the pollen patties inside the hives I want to feed it too.
So do you all do this from early spring when its first time to feed until you close them up for winter?
I feed from Jan. til the flow gets going good.
Natalie,
I like open feeding for a few reasons.
If I was to only feed the weak hives, I would be promoting robbing. And I can not always feed each hive or nuc in each yard due to the numbers.
Feeding away from the hive simulates a flow, stimulates the queen, and promotes brood production. Internal feeding does not have this same impact.
Open feeding allows each hive to take what they can process. Thinking a weak hive will magically build up and store what they need for winter is sometimes just wishing. I'd rather have all hives doing what they can, and then as the beekeeper, move frame of sealed honey to help light hives. I'm talking fall feeding of course.
I do little spring open feeding. Unlike the fall, if they can fly, they usually have something to find in the environment. I'll feed frames of honey from deadouts, or move over any leftover fondant to make sure I have no late season deadouts. But spring feeding is usually needed far less than fall feeding.
The two pictures show 1) the only way I'll ever use a boardman feeder (Tillie...are you getting that ;) ) and 2) open pollen sub feeding.
http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x236/BjornBee/?action=view¤t=Beepictures059.jpg
http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x236/BjornBee/?action=view¤t=Beepictures063.jpg
Thanks so much, thats alot of filling of jars you do. :)
I like the concept, it seems alot easier to deal with. I do have some spots I can use for open feeding.
I had bought some feeders to use at water sources as well.
Now what about when you first get a package or nuc, I know you have to feed heavily but can you do that with open feeding as long as you make sure you can keep up with what they are using?
That would be the easier way to do it, especially where they need alot.
Bjorn, what do you use for pollen? I have been looking at substitutes, mega bee patties, brood builder but just don't know what is best.
I saw that brood builder comes in dry form as well as the patties so you could put it out the same way you feed dry, just not sure what the concensus is. Now there is a funny, concensus among beekeepers :-D
I like open feeding. Boat loads easier. I make about 4 gallons, put in 5gal pail, take outside and throw grass clippings and weeds on top. walk away. Fill when empty. Carrying syrup out to yard is pain in butt and yet another heavy beekeeping chore. Now I carry about 50ft, mostly through my home, out door and drop about 20 ft away.
So when I get my nucs next month can I just feed like that and not bother with individual hives? I would love that.
Quote from: Natalie on March 13, 2009, 12:26:15 PM
So when I get my nucs next month can I just feed like that and not bother with individual hives? I would love that.
If you have hives and can start them on a frame or two of honey, that is always good.
You mention nucs??? Nucs should have a frame of honey and should be able to go forward without the thought of starvation. But feeding will certainly be beneficial.
BUT....if this is a package, and especially for those reading this and are starting colonies from packages on foundation, then feeding would certainly be beneficial. People lose hive every year due to packages on foundation with no feed, and cold spells lasting days. In those cases, I prefer to have a boardman feeder covering part of the inner cover hole and a box around it. I like that better than an inverted jar, which sometimes leaks.
ANYONE putting packages on foundation.....make arrangements to feed your bees the first couple weeks.
Open feeding to simulate a flow or stimulate a queen in established colonies is one thing. Relying on open feeding of newly installed packages is another.
Yup, I am getting nucs and you are right there will be honey frames so I should still offer some syrup as back up I guess but they won't starve.
What are your thoughts on brood builder and patties and all that when you get nucs or packages.
Is it necessary or just when your colonies are coming out of winter?
It might be a good idea to feed your packages inside the hive, because from all the experienced beeks here on the forum, it sounds like you need to keep your packages closed up a couple of days to assimulate them to their new new.
Another aspect of open feeding is that you can sometimes discover that you are not the only hive owner in the hood!! That's what happened to me last month. I discovered there was a feral hive to my north. How? I closed my hive up one night and the bees were still feeding from the open feeder the next day. I even captured around 200 and did a newspaper combine with my weak hive!!! :evil:
However, if you have your feeder any closer than 100 ft it can lead to robbing, discovered that too. If that feeder goes dry during the day and you are not there to fill, a feral hive will look for anything in the area!!! They are ferocious!!
I have a 55 gal barrel cut in half the long way . I put 5 gal of sugar and 5 gal of watter in an electric cement mixer , once mixed pour in barrel (talk about lazzzzzzy !!! ) 2 pieces of 2 by 4 nailed to a piece of plywood keeps rain out ,turn cover over during flow to keep bees out .
PS I float wheat straw on top of the syrup about 2 in worth
BjornBee,
Glad to see the picks of the feeding station. It was illistrative of what I've been trying to say for a long time, as well as your comments. Open feeding reduces robbing whereas individual feeding will instigate it. Pick a spot, set up your community feed, and let each hive harvest and process what it can.
Not every hive is going to have the same strength, same size cluster, or the same food stores requirement to over winter. Besides, exchanging frames between hives to even out the stores distribution is easier on the bees and the keeper than trying to feed a 100 hives with 100 jars of feeders for 6 or 7 weeks in the fall.
Thank you Brian.
I would like to add, that open feeding dry supplement only allows a small window of opportunity in the spring. They will quickly find natural sources. Patties in spring for consistant feed would be a good option.
In the fall, I can open feed for sometimes 6 to 8 weeks, after the frost kills off the flowers. It usually warms back up but the bees have little to work.