which may or may not require simple answers.
First off I just built my hive platform this morning, I gave it a slight pitch forward. I put down an interlocking layer of paving bricks that I already had to keep grass from growing up under and immediately around the hive. I still dont have the hive yet. I then set some cinder block around the perimeter of the brick in an array suitable to holding the edges of the hive stand on all 4 sides. The hive stand contains a screen and white mite board.
1. First ?, do I need to put a board between the stand and the cinder block or will allowing it to remain open to more air flow be more beneficial? Will leaving it open invite pests? And what about when the weather turns cold, close it up or leave it open?
Concerning the hive stand. It looks fairly rough to me, made of white pine and not a superior job, though I think it should hold up. I need to paint it. I plan to use primer first then a coat of flat white exterior latex. Both are water soluble. I sanded down all the edges and outside this afternoon.
2. So I just try to keep the paint on the outside and not let any get inside, right? That includes the flat horizontal parts that bridge the outside to the inside or what? I'm guess probably it does as they probably need the weather protection as well. Same deal for the entrance reducer too, right?
I'm in a bit of a delimna about ordering a top tray feeder. Blackistone suggests his 3 gal. I can get different parts elsewhere that are more like 1 or 1.5 gal with a plastic liner that fits inside the wooden housing but also requires a ventilation chamber beneath. I assume both require a top cover which neither mentions but which I should have anyway. Removing all this top load must be a bit of a chore which neither merchant addresses either. But I have to assume it must be done to get to the bees.
3. So any advice on which is the easiest to handle and which is more efficient? And will keeping a load of syrup up top in early spring and fall even though under cover promote any robbing tendencies in other bees about?
Thanks for any rsponse.
-pc
Regarding the painting issue I am not sure I understand what you mean by the horizontal parts but you CAN paint everything. However there is no need to paint the insides of the hive as the bees will take care of it and it is in out of the weather anyway. Also I have been told having bare wood on the inside give a little buffer for moisture. I dont know how I feel about that but I am thinking it probably does not make that much of a difference. Basically what I am trying to say is you dont have to be careful that you dont get any paint inside it is not going to hurt anything.
About the board under the hive, I would not put one there. Leave it open unless you are going to clean out the area on a regular basis. If you have a spot under a screen that the bees can not get to to clean and it is "sealed" off I think you will have problems with junk falling though the screen then rotting which will attract all kinds of pest who will be happy to set up shop in the hive. Let the junk fall to the ground away from the hive. As far as closing up the screen in cold weather some do and some dont. I did both this year and have not seen a difference yet. (Give it a few more weeks though)
Thanks Greg. All good info for folks like me.
-pc
All of Greg's answers are what I agree with. Don't drive yourself crazy worrying about some paint running down into the hive areas. I do paint the areas where the boxes set. Just let it dry really good. I have some boxes that are painted on the inside.
Just set it on the blocks where it has good support. No board.
Can't help you with the feeder. I use a different kind.
By the way, if you get bee bit and start expanding, you'll forget about sanding and making them purty ;).
I've found top feeders can be a problem if they aren't sealed well. They'll leak and can drown bees and will dribble all down the comb and onto the bottom board or ground (if using SBB). This attracts ants of course. On the recommendation of others here I place a boardman feeder on the other side of the yard, about 75 feet away, maybe close to a flowering source. And the bees will find it in short order and work it. The drawback with this method is you can't control who feeds from it, so if you have supers on one hive and have another weaker hive you want to feed, you'll end up adulterating the hive with the supers.
Quote from: pollenchucker on March 17, 2009, 05:56:45 PM
which may or may not require simple answers.
First off I just built my hive platform this morning, I gave it a slight pitch forward. I put down an interlocking layer of paving bricks that I already had to keep grass from growing up under and immediately around the hive. I still dont have the hive yet. I then set some cinder block around the perimeter of the brick in an array suitable to holding the edges of the hive stand on all 4 sides. The hive stand contains a screen and white mite board.
1. First ?, do I need to put a board between the stand and the cinder block or will allowing it to remain open to more air flow be more beneficial?
You can allow it to remain open.
Quote
Will leaving it open invite pests?
Only if the hive is weak. And then it won't matter where the openings are.
Quote
And what about when the weather turns cold, close it up or leave it open?
Some people close them up others leave them open I will leave that for those who live in colder climates to answer.
Quote
Concerning the hive stand. It looks fairly rough to me, made of white pine and not a superior job, though I think it should hold up. I need to paint it. I plan to use primer first then a coat of flat white exterior latex. Both are water soluble. I sanded down all the edges and outside this afternoon.
2. So I just try to keep the paint on the outside and not let any get inside, right?
No paint on the inside.
Quote
That includes the flat horizontal parts that bridge the outside to the inside or what?
No paint on the inside.
Quote
I'm guess probably it does as they probably need the weather protection as well. Same deal for the entrance reducer too, right?
You don't need to paint the reducer. You don't need to paint the boxes.
Quote
I'm in a bit of a delimna about ordering a top tray feeder. Blackistone suggests his 3 gal. I can get different parts elsewhere that are more like 1 or 1.5 gal with a plastic liner that fits inside the wooden housing but also requires a ventilation chamber beneath. I assume both require a top cover which neither mentions but which I should have anyway. Removing all this top load must be a bit of a chore which neither merchant addresses either. But I have to assume it must be done to get to the bees.
Save the money buy a quart sized ziplock bags. Place an extra box on top (no frames). Place a full ziplock bag on top of the frames. Cut a slit about two inches long in the top of the bag. As the bees suck up the food bag goes empty remove old bag repeat if necessary.
Quote
3. So any advice on which is the easiest to handle and which is more efficient? And will keeping a load of syrup up top in early spring and fall even though under cover promote any robbing tendencies in other bees about?
Thanks for any rsponse.
-pc
Feeders inside of hives don't tend to get robbed if the bees are able t defend the entrance.
Sincerely,
Brendhan
I think top hive feeders are better used for longer periods in the South than would be the case for up North. I have a top hive feeder like this one and it works great. Hold almost 4 gallons but the tilt on my hive prevents the 4 gallon max. Bees don't get out on you when filling and 4 gallons is nice if the hives are some distance away like mine is. I revert to jars if it is real cold. Not sure if they are more accessible yet, but did work fine this January.
http://www.gabees.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=192&osCsid=95111786d124656407574630b9cced16
GA56 Hivetop feeder.
Mark
I'm using these:
http://www.mannlakeltd.com/ProductDetail.asp?idproduct=485&idCategory=
I just pop it into an empty medium and it works great.
I have also used the betterbee styro top feeder but I like the other better.
If I get more hives I will probably try some type of community feeder.
Alfred
As for closing up SBB, I use bottomless hives, just slatted racks, and have just overwintered 2 hives in good condition without closing up the bottoms. The temps got down into the single digits several times. It ain't the cold that kills bees during the winter it is the moisture that can condense on the underside of the top and rain on the cluster if a top vent isn't used. Dry and cold = no problem, wet and cold = dead bees.
Thanks to all for your informative replies, much appreciated.
-pc
Derby.....Derby......Where did I hear of that place before!
At any rate, I use 1 gallon glass jars inverted over the inner cover oval hole or a homemade inner cover that has two holes a little smaller than the jar lids. Put 10-12 small holes in the metal lid, turn it upside down over the IC holes, place a deep on top of the whole stack, and then, your top. Works like a charm! Cheap too!