Title: Ventilation Holes
Post by: Beecharmer on March 30, 2005, 06:23:16 PM
Post by: Beecharmer on March 30, 2005, 06:23:16 PM
Hi,
I am new to the beekeeping world and will be receiving my first nuc of bees this April. I have been reading all I can find on the subject. What I am wondering is, what is everyone's opinion on a ventilation hole in the upper hive body? That is fine, but then I read about reversing the hive bodies to prevent swarming. Now the hole will be on the bottom. Do you plug it somehow? Make a new one in the top hive body?
I am new to the beekeeping world and will be receiving my first nuc of bees this April. I have been reading all I can find on the subject. What I am wondering is, what is everyone's opinion on a ventilation hole in the upper hive body? That is fine, but then I read about reversing the hive bodies to prevent swarming. Now the hole will be on the bottom. Do you plug it somehow? Make a new one in the top hive body?
Title: Ventilation Holes
Post by: Jerrymac on March 30, 2005, 06:39:59 PM
Post by: Jerrymac on March 30, 2005, 06:39:59 PM
This is one of the areas you are going to get several different ways to ventilate. Some drill holes in each hive body right below the handle. Some raise the top cover by placing small chunks of wood under it. Some use open bottom hives. Some screen bottom boards. And some use a combination of some of those.
Did I miss a few? Probably.
Did I miss a few? Probably.
Title: Ventilation Holes
Post by: Robo on March 30, 2005, 07:47:48 PM
Post by: Robo on March 30, 2005, 07:47:48 PM
I like to use ventilation boxes (similar to the DE hives) above the inner cover. This provides plenty of upper ventilation, while preventing the bees from using it as an upper entrance. I also find it handy to set supers on during inspection, keeps them off the ground.
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/178-2/summer_ventilation.jpg) (http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/177-1/summer_ventilation.jpg)
click image for larger view
They can be any size, but I prefer the size of a medium super, a Quart mason jar feeder fits nicely inside.
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/184-2/DCP_0008.jpg) (http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/183-1/DCP_0008.jpg)
click image for larger view
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/178-2/summer_ventilation.jpg) (http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/177-1/summer_ventilation.jpg)
click image for larger view
They can be any size, but I prefer the size of a medium super, a Quart mason jar feeder fits nicely inside.
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/184-2/DCP_0008.jpg) (http://www.bushkillfarms.com/photos/d/183-1/DCP_0008.jpg)
click image for larger view
Title: Ventilation Holes
Post by: beemaster on March 30, 2005, 09:15:14 PM
Post by: beemaster on March 30, 2005, 09:15:14 PM
Beecharmer - BEAUTIFUL AVATAR!!!!!
I'll be going with Screened Bottom Boards this season. Bees (by the way) were flying well this morning, they went through a tremendous amount of honey the last month - SPRING is indeed a real killer, their activity level is raised and consumption seems to increase with the anticipation of replenishing food sources, which sadly don't always come in time.
As Robo has pointed out in a previous post concerning this topic many months back, a small screened hole will likely get filled over come winter - but they won't do anything with vent holes as Robo has in the photo (the one with the internal feed jar - which obviously doesn't vent in that photo) but does when using that super as a upper super filled with frames.
My point (I do get to them eventually - lol) is good venting is a superior way to twart swarming and the sooner the better. In our Chat Interview with Howland (I think you were there??) he said it isn't made for mite control, but for estimation of the degree of a mite problem. But the SBB seems to be the best way to STABLIZE the air temps in the hive WITHOUT causing a chimney effect - which could be an unwanted thing.
Example: if you have good top venting, you will also have a good flow of honey, wax and bee smell filling the air and flowing in the wind possibly attracting opossums, skunks, bears and more.
Using a screened bottom board equalizes the temps well by allowing air outside and inside even out, but doesn't have as much of a DRAFT, the air sort of dead-ends in the hive (compared to the ventbox) just a thought.
I'll be going with Screened Bottom Boards this season. Bees (by the way) were flying well this morning, they went through a tremendous amount of honey the last month - SPRING is indeed a real killer, their activity level is raised and consumption seems to increase with the anticipation of replenishing food sources, which sadly don't always come in time.
As Robo has pointed out in a previous post concerning this topic many months back, a small screened hole will likely get filled over come winter - but they won't do anything with vent holes as Robo has in the photo (the one with the internal feed jar - which obviously doesn't vent in that photo) but does when using that super as a upper super filled with frames.
My point (I do get to them eventually - lol) is good venting is a superior way to twart swarming and the sooner the better. In our Chat Interview with Howland (I think you were there??) he said it isn't made for mite control, but for estimation of the degree of a mite problem. But the SBB seems to be the best way to STABLIZE the air temps in the hive WITHOUT causing a chimney effect - which could be an unwanted thing.
Example: if you have good top venting, you will also have a good flow of honey, wax and bee smell filling the air and flowing in the wind possibly attracting opossums, skunks, bears and more.
Using a screened bottom board equalizes the temps well by allowing air outside and inside even out, but doesn't have as much of a DRAFT, the air sort of dead-ends in the hive (compared to the ventbox) just a thought.
Title: Ventilation Holes
Post by: Robo on March 30, 2005, 09:29:33 PM
Post by: Robo on March 30, 2005, 09:29:33 PM
Quote from: beemaster- but they won't do anything with vent holes as Robo has in the photo (the one with the internal feed jar - which obviously doesn't vent in that photo)
Actually there is ventilation with the feeder jar, it is just not visable in the picture.
Quote from: beemaster
Using a screened bottom board equalizes the temps well by allowing air outside and inside even out, but doesn't have as much of a DRAFT, the air sort of dead-ends in the hive (compared to the ventbox) just a thought.
I believe this is a valid concern as well, that is why I keep a piece of ridgid insulation on top of the inner cover until night time temperatures warm up.
Title: Screened bottom board
Post by: Beecharmer on March 31, 2005, 11:49:29 AM
Post by: Beecharmer on March 31, 2005, 11:49:29 AM
Actually I have a screened bottom board. Does that mean I do not need additional ventilation? I was not present during the chat interview. I like the idea of the internal feeding jar. Where do you purchase the vent boxes or did you make them?
Title: Ventilation Holes
Post by: Robo on March 31, 2005, 12:50:45 PM
Post by: Robo on March 31, 2005, 12:50:45 PM
Even with a SBB you will still need ventilation from the top during the winter at a minimum, year round doesn't hurt.
I made mine, just a box with some holes drilled in it and some screen stapled to the inside of the holes. Just make sure the holes are low enough that when you put on the telescopic cover, they aren't blocked.
I just copied/modeled mine after the DE hive. I think the ventilation box is sufficient and don't see the need for the bigger more elobrate covers with the DE hive. The DE hive also has screen on the inner cover holes which prevents bees from getting into the ventilation box. I found that you then get ants/spiders/etc taking up home in the ventilation box. By letting the bees have access, they keep it pretty inhabitant free. I have never had issue with them building comb in there either. I'm sure if you crowded them enough you might.
I made mine, just a box with some holes drilled in it and some screen stapled to the inside of the holes. Just make sure the holes are low enough that when you put on the telescopic cover, they aren't blocked.
I just copied/modeled mine after the DE hive. I think the ventilation box is sufficient and don't see the need for the bigger more elobrate covers with the DE hive. The DE hive also has screen on the inner cover holes which prevents bees from getting into the ventilation box. I found that you then get ants/spiders/etc taking up home in the ventilation box. By letting the bees have access, they keep it pretty inhabitant free. I have never had issue with them building comb in there either. I'm sure if you crowded them enough you might.