I did a search but nothing came up. What is the best way to cut handles?
carefully?
I don't know about best, but here are a couple...
Thread on woodworking... (http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,25142.msg195742.html#msg195742)
I plunge cut mine with a dado blade. NOTE: This is dangerous and I don't recommend it!
I also cut mine on a dado blade but I mark the center of the hive then assy it so that i can keep my fingers away from saw blade works well for me.
A plunge router with a 3/4 in. bit. Make a jig to place the hand hold where you want it.
Thanks for the help.
I cut mine on a table saw with a regular blade, not a dado. what I first do is lay two 2x4's about 12" long on both sides of the blade with ridge fence set at 3 1/2 inches from blade, set hive body on the 2x4's centered on saw blade, clamp hive body to ridge fence, start saw and raise saw blade until you hear it hit the hive body, as soon as it touches the wood raise blade just one revolution from that point, then leave blade raised just that one revolution then start turning you angle adjustment all the way till it is at 45 degree's then turn back straight up and raise blade another revolution up and repeat angle like before, it takes my table saw 4 raises to cut factory hand hold. hope this is easier to understand than it was to try to explain.
Thanks TWT.
Twt,
You have any pictures of your table saw setup? I'm not sure that I can visualize how you have everything clamped.
Thanks!
You might check Robo's sight. He's used a cutter head (like for molding) that attaches to your table saw (it has either one or three blade heads). Robo shows how he has his table saw and jig set up. You can use a dado blade or even just the saw blade itself, but there isn't much info (safe way) to do it that way. You can also use a router. Find what works best for you and your budget. Good luck.
I always end up just using a 1x2 glued and screwed to the box for handles. The recessed hand holds don't give a comfortable grip for moving 60-90 pound boxes around by fingertips. Plus, if you place them high enough, you can elevate a telescoping cover to create ventilation by removing the inner cover (which I don't use).
Scott
I'm with Hardwood on the 1X2 strips...they are much easier to hold...plus, you are left with a bunch of that material anyway when you rip down 1X12's to make deeps or mediums.
-Mike
Quote from: Two Bees on October 27, 2009, 08:55:08 AM
Twt,
You have any pictures of your table saw setup? I'm not sure that I can visualize how you have everything clamped.
Thanks!
sorry I dont have any picture at this time, maybe soon though....
Quote from: Hethen57 on October 27, 2009, 02:27:48 PM
I'm with Hardwood on the 1X2 strips...they are much easier to hold...plus, you are left with a bunch of that material anyway when you rip down 1X12's to make deeps or mediums.
-Mike
I only use 1x12's for deeps and 1x8's for mediums, handle strips work fine also but the extra pieces from ripped down can be used for all sorts of other equipment, like the top cover, Bottom Boards, entrance reducers, pieces for top feeders, shimes, all kinds of things
I use a tablesaw with a molding cutter to make mine
http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/building-honey-supers/
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/820-1/IMG_2318.jpg)
I also have a router version with directions on my website courtesy of Jim Hensel
http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/hensel-handle-sloping-pocket-handle-for-hive-boxes/
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2350-2/handle2.jpg)