I know this has probably been covered somewhere but can't seem to find it in this forum or in my bee books.
What is the best hive configuration for winter? live in zone 6/7
I have plenty of stores- concerned about moisture and keeping hive alive
Have two deeps with entrance reducer and slatted rack. Top deep is covered with inned cover then a med super on top (for feeding) Now have candy in the medium super need the inner cover hole. This is topped off by std galvanized cover.
Hives painted white.
Question:
Am i missing anything? e.g. should i put a layer of 1" styrofoam in med super space for insulation--seems a waste to me but heat rises.
Put in top entrance for ventilation??
Had strong hive going into winter. Couple of drones only just got pushed out a couple of weeks ago
Last question: I have put candy in med super and am loathe to open up hive and put on top of frames-- seems too disruptive- i figure they have plenty of stores anyway
I'm pretty new/inexperienced myself, but the one main thing to avoid is vacant box/boxes on top. I didn't vent the top for moisture/condensation last winter and didn't have a problem. This year all I have done was made sure they were strong in numbers with plenty of capped honey and I used clear 4 mil plastic around 7' steel fence posts to surround my hives as a wind break. Thats it. Good luck in the spring.
What is the reason for avoiding a vacant top. Seems to me it provides a dead air spacefor insulation and a place for moisture to go.
QuoteWhat is the reason for avoiding a vacant top.
you want the heat consolidated around the brood, not rising into an empty box. the empty box will need to be warmed before heat is held at the brood level.
Venting the hive is still a good idea. As everyone around here says "Cold doesn't kill bees, condensation does" (as I found out last year). A top entrance or vent will let condensation out of the hive. A small vent hole will go far. Place it above the inner cover so the 'Temperature/humidity transition zone' is separate from the cluster.
doesnt the inner cover keep most of the heat in? I guess I could put top cover on top of spacer that I can drill a hoel throug as a vent. adn give myself 1 inch of space for candy and or putting some styrofoam on the cover.
what do you all think?
Quote from: beryfarmer on December 05, 2009, 10:08:18 PM
doesn't the inner cover keep most of the heat in?
Yes. The pocket hole in it allows the warm humid air to
slowly escape.
QuoteI guess I could put top cover on top of spacer that I can drill a hole trough as a vent.
That's what i did.
Quote from: kathyp on December 05, 2009, 06:57:04 PM
QuoteWhat is the reason for avoiding a vacant top.
you want the heat consolidated around the brood, not rising into an empty box. the empty box will need to be warmed before heat is held at the brood level.
If you already have an empty box on top for feeding (like I have) it would probably work to just lay a cloth on top of your candy/sugar to help hold the heat in without reconfiguring everything at this late date. I might do that myself. It works to keep the biscuits warm without making
them sweat.
Most of the generalizations about winter configuration are based on Italians that have filled a hive with bees and brood and some supers with honey. Usually in a cold climate they require two ten frame deeps, or three ten frame mediums or four eight frame mediums, with about 125 to 150 pounds of weight total (hive + bees + stores).
If you have a smaller cluster than that, then you need less room and less stores. If you have a more frugal race you may have a smaller cluster because of that and need less room and less stores.
I ended up taking off my medium super today anyway. I have 1 1# spacer that can be used for top entrance- took out plastic plug so have 3/4# hole. Put cover over it and it pretty much covers this hole--or rather prevents direct wind entrance. might evern be possilbe for bee to fit through. Ended up taping roofing felt on hive.- figure can't hurt-- getting in the high twenties this week for low. I think will be cold winter here in Philly.
Cluster was right at top of highest deep. Know have a lot of bees and stores though. Also closed off most holes in mouse guard- left three open. will adjust as necessary when warm days--but hope that bees can fit through upper entrance if necessary
Just remembered why I put cement solid blocks on top fo my hives. The 50 MPH wind scattered my tops into my neighbors yard. I found all of them and got everything back together and put the blocks on.
Quote from: beryfarmer on December 05, 2009, 11:47:12 AM
Have two deeps with entrance reducer and slatted rack.
Top deep is covered with inned cover then a med super on top (for feeding) Now have candy in the medium super need the inner cover hole. This is topped off by std galvanized cover.
Put in top entrance for ventilation??
" deep stores full of food should be enough over winter.
If you have solid bottom, upper entrance in front wall is quite necessary. Opening to "loft" is not good idea at all.
I use finger tip size upper entrance, about 15 mm.
Inner cover should so insultaed that it does not condensate moisture.
You use cady or something else if hive use its food and is light when yu lift it with one hand.
Interesting links on hive temp during winter- need thermal scans
http://www.beesource.com/resources/usda/the-thermology-of-wintering-honey-bee-colonies/ (http://www.beesource.com/resources/usda/the-thermology-of-wintering-honey-bee-colonies/)
http://www.beebehavior.com/infrared_camera_pictures.php (http://www.beebehavior.com/infrared_camera_pictures.php)
http://www.beebehavior.com/live_camera_winter.php (http://www.beebehavior.com/live_camera_winter.php)