Is gorilla glue ok to use on box joints? Do I need to use Tight bond II? Is it reallly a big deal?
I stick to the tight-bond myself, only because I'm not prepared to hold a full seam against the expansion on the gorilla glue.
Titebond III is food grade / FDA rated if that is a requirement for you.
I use titebond. II or III, whatever I have on hand in the shop. When cured, the wood usually gives before the glue line.
I used Gorilla glue for something else and didn't really care for it. More expensive than titebond. Especially in the quantities needed for hive boxes and such.
All glue assembly needs to be clamped (or nailed) to hold the presure needed until cured. Titebond I dump into a small jar (that can be closed tightly) and apply with a flux brush. The flux brushes are cheap and can be bought by the bag at "Dollar Store" type facilities. Instead of trying to get the glue bottle nozzle into the notches and then still needing to spread to all contact surfaces, I can just paint the glue on.
I've use both Titebond and gorilla...... both worked fine for me.
I bought some titebond II this time around. I like the food grade and all.
Intially, I used TB 2 on internal parts and TB 3 on external parts.
If you assemble a lot of woodenware, the price may encourage you to use TB2 on all parts (as it did me)! At Home Depot, a gallon of TB2 is $16 whereas a gallon of TB3 is $33! :shock:
as a carpenter, Titebond 2 is better , stronger and faster to set up than Titebond 3.
Gorilla glue, I love, 20 minute to set, use a little water to prime the glue area. Strong, fast but soooo dirty on the fingers...