Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum

BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. => Topic started by: Hemlock on January 27, 2011, 09:23:23 PM

Title: Slatted Racks
Post by: Hemlock on January 27, 2011, 09:23:23 PM
Time to build stuff for spring.  I'm going to make some slatted racks for the hives but i've not seen one up close.  So my questions are:

1). - Does anyone have any good pictures of their home made slatted racks

2). - Why do the commercial units have that solid piece intersecting the bars in the front?  What does it do?

Thanks
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: AllenF on January 27, 2011, 09:29:45 PM
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/slatted-bottom-rack/ (http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/slatted-bottom-rack/)
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: specialkayme on January 27, 2011, 10:30:07 PM
Quote from: Hemlock on January 27, 2011, 09:23:23 PM

2). - Why do the commercial units have that solid piece intersecting the bars in the front?  What does it do?


Slatted Racks increase air circulation, to some degree. The front bar, my guess, is that it stops a breeze from coming directly into the hive and hitting the first few frames.
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: Robo on January 27, 2011, 10:57:21 PM
The solid piece in the front leads the bees farther back onto the frame when entering the hive, and reduces them chewing out the corners of the frames.  It also provides some protect from the entrance and allows for brood farther down on the end of the frames.
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: tillie on January 28, 2011, 01:00:48 AM
I like the slatted rack that follows the frames rather than at right angles in the beesource pattern.  Here's a picture of a commercial one that I ordered:

http://beekeeperlinda.blogspot.com/2006/06/beard-and-slatted-rack.html (http://beekeeperlinda.blogspot.com/2006/06/beard-and-slatted-rack.html)

I have them on all of my hives.  Here in Hotlanta we need all the help we can get with ventilation.

Linda T in Atlanta
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: BeeCurious on January 28, 2011, 09:46:16 AM
I have some that I made with PVC pipe as slats, others are wooden.

I combined the features of a slatted rack with those of a SBB into one assembly which serves as a stand. My 8-framers are made from 2x4's. The combined assembly requires an unconventional entrance routed into the front of the stand. They're unusual but I like to think that they reduce robbing.

(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/js06807/Hive%20Stands/slats_screen_stickeyboard-1.jpg)

(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/js06807/Hive%20Stands/5-framestand006-2.jpg)

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/js06807/?action=view&current=MVI_8022.mp4 (http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/js06807/?action=view&current=MVI_8022.mp4)


Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: Hemlock on January 28, 2011, 11:44:48 PM
WOW, Thats a bunch of info.  Thanks  to everyone.  I feel i can make a few of these now.
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: Brian D. Bray on February 01, 2011, 08:35:06 PM
Replace the flat slats with 5/8 dowling and you'll find that it works better.
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: PeeVee on February 02, 2011, 03:56:14 AM
Brian,
Would you rabbit the end of the dowling to fit to the support piece?
Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: BeeCurious on February 02, 2011, 09:51:14 AM
I'm not Brian,

I used a dado to cut out the notch which was approximately 1/4" from the top.

I used PVC pipe which I tabbed in place with a hot glue gun. I suspect that PVC pipe is cheaper...


Title: Re: Slatted Racks
Post by: Brian D. Bray on February 04, 2011, 02:15:29 AM
Quote from: BeeCurious on February 02, 2011, 09:51:14 AM
I'm not Brian,

I used a dado to cut out the notch which was approximately 1/4" from the top.

I used PVC pipe which I tabbed in place with a hot glue gun. I suspect that PVC pipe is cheaper...

PVC pipe is cheaper but bear in mind that pipe is sold as inside diameter whereas wood is sold as outside diameter, so make the necessary adjustments for the type of material being used.

And no I don't rabbet or dado, I just bore a 5/8 hole 1/2 way through (3/8 inch deep) the end boards and cut the dowling appropriately.