OK I am new and have no need too control as of yet?
To control a swarm for you bigger keepers why not make a walk away split
Then a week later or even 4 days later take the comb with queen cells cut
them all out and do a combine back to the Mother Hive. If your worried about
missing queen cells keep the comb away for long enough to expire
Why would this not work and if it did would it not make for a nice large Hive
Laugh away
Tommyt
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Look Maarec letters.
Mid-Atlantic Apiary Research and Extension Consortium
OK is that for me to read to be a better keeper :) or is there an explanation of what I ask?
Tommyt
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Question is about false swarm. old bees and the queen is moved to foundation hive.
When bees draw one box of foundations, fever will be gone. That is the best swarm cutting method.
during swarm season it is best to make sure there is always EMPTY comb for the bees to place nectar in
if you fall behind and they fill the supper then your chance of a swarm flying away with your honey crop
has increased-
Tomy what your talking about is very labor intensive- ;) --RDY-B
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Actually i did not know what Tommy is doing.
Hard to invent nowadays a wheel in swarm control area.
Guys I am doing nothing but learning
I was reading here and thought I had a Light bulb Idea :-D
I also figured If I thought of it.
It more then Likely was either tried and failed
Or tried and works
This was just something I thought off and asked about ;)
Tommyt
Here...I'll help you out tommyt.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesswarmcontrol.htm (http://www.bushfarms.com/beesswarmcontrol.htm)
I just figured anyone that would use a thread originally intended to congratulate MB on his accomplishments, to attack or denigrate others, must be a REALLY big fan. ;)
See post #25.
http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,30937.20.html (http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,30937.20.html)
:-D
Just make sure you wipe your nose off occasionally...... :lau:
Yes, you can split a hive and recombine later as a way to control swarming. It's even an easy way to requeen your hive, by letting the split make a new queen before recombining.
It's also a lot of work. Once you get very many hives, it isn't very practical.
QuoteJust make sure you wipe your nose off occasionally......
Flattery will get you Know where :cheer:
Quote from: Countryboy on February 27, 2011, 09:42:08 PM
Yes, you can split a hive and recombine later as a way to control swarming. It's even an easy way to requeen your hive, by letting the split make a new queen before recombining.
It's also a lot of work. Once you get very many hives, it isn't very practical.
so, if you keep that easy queen, your main point in breeding is that you want swarming beestock. With this system you make real problems.
OK OK OK :-D I give :'(
What exactly do you Big bee keepers do ? Let them swarm :shock:
Does the checkering board work and is the least time so let it be?
I feel for you folks that need to cut time and understand you are not at it as just a hobby
I do understand that some loss, expected especially for large operations
I am confused ,I want many hives
I also want to Learn all I can, too keep what I have,
so they will remain Large and in Charge.
I truly believe a large strong hive will prosper,I think that goes for all
Tommyt
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Let them swarm! You rear the hive all year around and let it go into skyes blue.
Swarming prevention is a big job. First rule:don't take queens from swarm cells.
Second rule: don't listen one hive owners.
Google is full of professional level advices how to control swarming.
Finski, why not take queen cells from a hive that has swarm cells? Are you saying those queens are more pron to swarm than a bought queen :? Jack
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Bee stock can be breeded that it is not anxious to swarm, or it swarms not at all. This kind of features in not natural, because swarming is bees habit to reproduce.
Swarming is natural fhenomenon and if you take queens from swarming hive, it continues its natural habit.
And on another hand, if you do not select not at all your queens and you just take swarm cells, you will be unhappy with your mongrel bees.
The fast swarmer the fast queen take you are ....
It would be nice to have queens that are not anxious to swarm and produce lots of surplus honey. I don't believe we can have both,when we try to alter nature,we usually end up with something we don't want. I have started many nuc's and hives from swarm cells that turn out to be better than most queens i've bought from breeders.I raise most of my queens from my survivor hives to requeen in the fall, and i don't have any that are not mongrels and i am happy with them.I would also question alot of the queens we by as being pure breeds. To delay swarming is good beekeeping, and we usually find out were not as good as we think we are :-D.Speaking only for myself, i'm happy to find swarm cells,there are many things you can do with a over populated hive with swarm cells. Jack
>To control a swarm for you bigger keepers why not make a walk away split
I often do, but only if I didn't get time to control swarming. I would like a honey crop now and then, and a walk away split is a way to end up with more bees, rather than more honey. I need some to make up winter losses, but I don't want all of them to be split and if they swarm, I lose the bees AND the honey crop.
>Then a week later or even 4 days later take the comb with queen cells cut
them all out and do a combine back to the Mother Hive.
That may or may not work depending on the timing with the flow. If the flow kicks in, it might work fine. If the flow doesn't kick in they will probably just swarm anyway.
> If your worried about
missing queen cells keep the comb away for long enough to expire
expire?
>Why would this not work and if it did would it not make for a nice large Hive
If you time it right, it could work well. If you don't time it right, they will just swarm.
http://bushfarms.com/beessplits.htm#swarmcontrol (http://bushfarms.com/beessplits.htm#swarmcontrol)
Anyone who cuts queen cells out of a hive is going to end up queenless sooner rather than later.
A split is a controlled swarm, it can be done with as few as 2 or 3 frames, preferrabky with the old queen is removed to the split. Doing splits in and of itself will not kill the swarm fever in a hive, to do that the old queen must leave. Otherwise you can end up with a split and a swarm, sometimes days apart.