I got a 9-18 extractor from a guy that bought it new 9 years ago from dandant, he only used it 1 time and it still looks brand new, My question is that i start spinning it slowly and then after some time I can speed it up, how long of time to spin it on slow ? how much to adjust faster and how long does it take a frame to spin out in 80 degree temps? any info would be appreciated.
Tempereture of honey is better to be near 90 F than 80F.
At first you must spin slow. Then you turn frames and spin another side. When you spin second side do it slow first and and then little bit faster. Then you turn again and spin a side clean.
It depends what kind of honey it is. If you spin too fast, the weight of honey and pollen break combs.
If combs are really new, they are easy to broken.
All the 9/18's I've seen are radials, so I assume it won't require reversing them (which a tangetial extractor would), but the main test is to watch how much honey flows out. That's the real test. On a hot day this will happen faster. If the supers have had time to warm up inside it will happen faster. If the supers are in a cool room it will happen slower. If you harvest on a cold night and try to extract the next day they may still be cold and it will happen slower. You get the idea. If the honey is drier (lower moisture) it will happen slower.
The point is there is no set rule because temperature and moisture change everything dramatically, what you want to look for is that most of the honey had come out of the combs before you really crank it up. It takes a bit of practice and paying attention at first, but it's easy once you get the hang of it. The first batch is the one to pay the most attention to so you get the idea of how fast it's coming out of the combs. You may have to run that first batch on slow for a little while and look at them. Lift one frame and feel how heavy it is. This should give you an idea of how fast it's coming out. If you are gentle you can extract thin surplus or foundationless frames with no wire. If you're impatient you can even blow up combs on plastic foundation or wired wax. If you blow out some combs, you won't be the first beekeeper to do so. :) It will wake you up!
I was wondering about viberating honey out of the combs. Is there any history of this ever being tried?
Secure the frame top bar down on a viberating plate and flip the switch.
Thoughts?
I think vibrating would work. I don't know how effeciently or practically. But it should work.
So if I try it I will let everyone know.
Having never seen an extractor run I can't claim to know what I'm talking about, but if you use a radial extractor the acceleration on the comb is in the same direction as gravity was when it was in the hive and it can stand this quite well. I believe any shaking scheme would change the acceleration 90 degree's and I would think that would be likely to cause a blowout.
Only one way to find out :)
Dave
Quote from: ms132872I believe any shaking scheme would change the acceleration 90 degree's and I would think that would be likely to cause a blowout.
When there is quite heavy load and when you wheel that weigh, it must be in opposite balance. If not, it start to jump on flor and it will fall if you continue.
To me extracting is not a problem,. To filter little rubbish away like was pieces is more difficult. If honey is stiff and it is cool, it does not go through the strainer. Rape honey developes soon crystals. That is why it must be extracted soon after capping. Heather honey is so jelly that it must be twisted through strainer.
Sometimes I am lazy and I do not excratc honey in time. It makes crystals and then I have difficulties.