My latex paint is TOO sticky when it is "dry". Painted parts stick to painted parts weeks after painting. Anybody know how to fix this problem? How do you make the finished surface of latex paint non sticky?
I've had this problem for years, but it's really getting annoying when painting foam hives. The problem is if I stack my latex painted foam nucs or mating nucs on top of each other, they end up gluing themselves together. When I try to pull them apart, the paint gets ripped off the foam on one box leaving an ugly mess. The paint sticks to itself better than it sticks to foam even when "dried" for weeks.
I've had the same problem in my wood hives painted with latex semi gloss. Any paint on the mating surface of hive bodies ends up gluing the hive bodies together. Since the bees also glue the bodies together, I have lived with that problem. However with foam, this latex stickiness problem is a real annoyance.
All latex paint takes 30 days to "cure", even though it may be dry after an hour or 2. Maybe this is your problem?
I use Benjamin Moore "Aura" exterior for my renovation business and have had great success, so I painted my hives with it and so far no sticking or peeling problems. It is a paint and primer in one.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Algonam, I will concede that after 30 days, my latex seems less tacky, but the tackiness never seems to go totally away. I have been using paint from the local hardware store, it's not Benjamin Moore. Not going to mention the brand since I suspect the problem occurs on more than just one brand of latex paint. I've read about people painting windows and doors and the latex gluing them shut :evil:
I've been reading about people coating their finishes with furniture wax to rid themselves of latex tackiness. Anybody try that?
I had the same problem last year. I used a premium brand of latex and couldn't get them to stop sticking. I finally coated all the mating edges with a block of bees wax. worked grate.
This year I scored some free Big Lots latex paint to paint the new deeps and supers. I'm not sure if it will last but I have not had any sticking problems.
John
I paint the top and bottom edges of my boxes and they stick together for some time after. For a quick fix I rub the edges with a ball of beeswax after painting. I have also given them a coat of petroleum jelly that seems to soak in and lasts awhile.
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I paint quite a thin layer. I have not noticed any problems.
I do not paint the tree box or polybox surfaces where boxes touch each other.
Normally paint layers are made as thin layers and first a layer dry up before you make next one. One day is surely enough to dry up latex.
Dilute latex with water and make thin layers....
Talc?
It should eventually lose the tackiness. Not sure how long but it does lose the tackiness eventually.A year in the field work's for sure. Do you even have to paint styrofoam? Why not regular wood boxes? I have a couple styro nuc boxes but never painted them. Don't really care for them either as entrances are too small when strong, although they are nice for moving nuc's.
I can't imagine having to pry apart styro. Sometimes wood will pull apart from the paint gluing them together. Bee's will propolis them together anyway and they need pried apart. I feel your frustration!
Like Finski, I don't paint the edges where the boxes come together... why bother, the bees will stick it together for you anyway when they seal all the joints and cracks.. Poppi
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Styro box is usefull to paint at least for one reason. A white plastic reflects light so that bees become a little bit blind when sun shines. Bees whirl a while before they land into entrance.
In painted box bees flye directly in.
Second reason is that paint protect against UV RADIATION. It makes plastic surface fragile.
My oldest styroboxes are labeled 1987 and they are in full condition.
Styrobox is easy to repair with Polyurethane glue. A mist of water onto surface and water hardens the glue.
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Last case was that I bought 40 styro boxes. I bought car paints 10 bottles with kick out price.
It was easy to paint the boxes and they were ready quite soon. They stinked 24 hours.
It could be the brand of latex I used, it could be my painting technique, or it could be that foam prevents some solvents for evaporating away. Turns out there is an industry term for this problem; it's called adhesion or "blocking". Here is what one paint company says about sticking paint:
"Latex paints contain chemicals called plasticizers that allow proper film formation and keep the coating flexible. Many vinyl and plastic weather-stripping materials also contain plasticizers to give them flexibility. When two surfaces containing plasticizers come in contact with each other, they can have the tendency to stick. This condition, known as blocking, will generally occur during the early curing time of the coating, but it can continue for some time. Blocking can also occur on double-hung windows and garage doors. The easiest way to prevent blocking is to use a non-blocking acrylic, or alkyd base paint in areas where it may occur."
As Finski says, most foam needs to be painted to protect it from UV radiation from the Sun. I'm using the low density foam (pink and blue stuff) in my hives and that stuff will quickly turn to dust when exposed to UV.
Finski, what color do you paint your hives to prevent blinding your bees?
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I like brown yellow like color of autumn leaves.
Many here prefer dark green like cars or tanks of army (landscape colors)
i prefer too that my hives does not shine like a sun in the woods. (for bad guys)
new paint is quite expencive. I like to find low cost solutions.
When I sterilize boxes with lye water, part of paint will be lost.
It varies with the paint but, often the drying and the flattening agents in the paint will separate. That is why my walls are so streaky after my wife paints them.
Make sure you stir the paint well if it has been sitting for some time, and every 10-15 minutes while in use.
Have fun!
I was a commercial painter for a while and quickly learned that the bargain paint is the best quality you can afford. Good paint does not act as you describe. I once volunteered to help one of my wifes friends repaint the interior of her rental if she got good paint. Oh she did! Three coats later it was still good paint! Get quality exterior paint. Call house painters and ask them what they would use in your area and climate.
Quote from: BlueBee on August 20, 2011, 03:48:38 AM
It could be the brand of latex I used... The easiest way to prevent blocking is to use a non-blocking acrylic, or alkyd base paint in areas where it may occur...
Latex is rubber. Rubber sticks to rubber. Ask anyone who has ever unpacked a new intertube, or worked in a tire store.
Acrylic paint is not based on latex but on a synthetic polymer, therefore it won't stick to its' self as easily as latex paint.
Some water soluble house paints are marketed as acrylic latex but they usually contain no latex or rubber, only an acrylic polymer. I think an alkyd paint is a long drying or a non drying paint by design. Don't use it if you expect or desire a hard, quick drying, enamel like finish.
Where I live I see no value in painting the edges of a brood box or super. They allready stick to eachother good or bad enough without it.
If I find time I will drop two stuck boxes off the I40 Interstate bridge to test their latex bond.