Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum

I got a call for removing bees from large oak tree in a man,s yard. After looking the hive over and watching for 20 min. i think it is a very large colony, the bees were packing pollen by the wheelbarrow load i have never saw so much activity from one hive,so they are in the main flow for that area.The man said there was a large swarm on side of tree about two weeks ago so i am assuming the bees have already swarmed once.!? I am thinking of doing a trap out direct into hive with two 10 frame deeps? Anyone have any idea if this will work and about how many days until most all bees are trapped.Would i be better off waiting until after main honey flow?
Do i leave an exit hole on top of hive? :? Please pardon my Okie ways. :roll:

All you need to know about trap outs by Iddee
The master of trap out IMHO


Trap Out How-To

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,20301.0.html (http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,20301.0.html)



   BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)

Go do it now.  Trap out with a frame of eggs and a empty hive.   There are several videos and threads here on it. 

Wow, that's awesome!  What's the potential disadvantage of leaving the empty comb in the house (particularly if you're sealing the entrance afterwards?)  If you have the two months to do this, it seems this would be far more cost effective than a cut-out.

Quote from: Jim 134 on May 21, 2012, 04:03:53 PM
All you need to know about trap outs by Iddee
The master of trap out IMHO


Trap Out How-To

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,20301.0.html (http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,20301.0.html)



    BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
Thanks Jim; The sad part is the home owner does not want the tree damaged so a cutout is out of the question and i am thinking that there is likely 100 to 150 lbs of honey that i have no way of removing  there appears to be only one hole about 5in long by 21/2 in in the tree,did not see an exit hole anywhere.That is why i was thinking of connecting the end of cone directly to the trap box and leaving an exit hole at top of box.I figure the bees would start building in trap box instead of trying to return to old hive.  :oops:

You haven't read the links Jim gave you. If you did, you would know how to do the trap without damage, and No, the inbox trap won't work. They will either not use it or use it as a super only. A good trap leaves NO honey in the tree.

Quote from: iddee on May 21, 2012, 07:45:10 PM
You haven't read the links Jim gave you. If you did, you would know how to do the trap without damage, and No, the inbox trap won't work. They will either not use it or use it as a super only. A good trap leaves NO honey in the tree.

    X:X X:X X:X X:X



     BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)

Ok i read and reread the post,and i understand the where withs and so forth, the only thing that i cant understand is how the bees are going to remove all the honey if you trap them all in box.I mean that is the reason for doing a trapout right.And if you leave the trap out hive there seems they will just return to old hive.I am referring to after you remove wire cone. :?

The bees will be at home in the hive and forget they ever lived in the house or tree after 3 days. When the trap is done, they will rob it out.

Carl
A trapout can be one of two types (Hogan vs cone) and can be left in place for different lengths of time depending on what you want to accomplish.  If you want foragers, house bees, and maybe a queen, use a Cleo Hogan trapout.  I use this technique when I don't want to remove the hive from the tree. I can steal 8 deep frames of bees multiple times a year and use them to start a new hive or boost a weak hive.  This Cleo Hogan trapout requires creating a short dark tunnel from the tree hive entrance to the back of a super.  It is baited with a frame of larva without any bees on it. The houses bees come out and collect on the brood frame.  Foragers also collect and deposit pollen and nectar.  With frequent checking, a queen can be found in the super.  The other mesh cone trapout has been explained above and traps out foraging bees. The queen will abscond and you won't be able to capture her.

If the owner doesn't mind the tree hive, do serial trapouts which is a great source for free bees.

Check your trapout multiple times at first to make sure the bees have no way to get back in to the tree hive around the mesh cone or solid tunnel.  I hammer in a metal ring custom made by my partner around the entrance to the tree.  I attach the mesh cone to this or push the back of the super which contains a 2 inch hole up against the ring. 

Trapouts are a lot of fun so enjoy!!

 

Thanks everyone and especially MTWIBadger, i see you understand what i was trying to say about direct connecting to hole in tree so bees would take up residence in trap out hive.I plan to install trap out late in evening after bees have returned to hive and the serial trap out sounds like an idea i was toying with.I dont think the owner will mind at all how long i leave new hive there.This is the first i have heard about that type of trap out you mentioned.It seemed that the type Iddee was referring to was written in blood! I used to live in south so i am a bit BONEHEADED. :-D   
Sounds like i just might get my Kate and Edith to! :evil:

"".It seemed that the type Iddee was referring to was written in blood!""

No, but it does come with a guarantee. If it doesn't work, I return your money for the plans.

In fact, everything I give away comes with a money back guarantee.

Thanks IDDEE for straighting me out on that point,i just meant i did not know there were other ways that were used other than the wire cone method.Also missed the part where you leave the trap box for a number of days to let the bees rob out the honey.
i,m a dumb OKIE, new beekeep   :roll: