Are they meant to hold water? I was given a second hand bucket with gate valve and while cleaning noticed that water leaked out of the valve- tried a new O ring - still leaked so purchased a new valve. It leaks a lot more. So my query is do I risk filling the bucket with honey and have it leak or does the thicker honey not go where water will?
Wombat,
The gate valves on my extractor, honey strainer and honey drum all hold water.
Can't help you with your drama but those are my observations.
Good luck
Yanta
From my experience you really have to tighten up the gate valves really tight to hold any liquids/honey. I have had to use a pair of pliers to tighten a gate valve.
Ben
Quote from: squidink on January 05, 2014, 06:29:22 AM
From my experience you really have to tighten up the gate valves really tight to hold any liquids/honey. I have had to use a pair of pliers to tighten a gate valve.
Ben
To clarify....I think ben is referring to the installation of the valve, and not the actual use. At least, that's been my experience. When I install my honey gates on my buckets, I have to get quite aggressive in tightening them on. However, the last honey gates I bought specifically warned against tightening the thumb screen to shut off the valve anything more than hand tight.
Good Luck! :)
When I installed my gate valves the inside had a hex head pattern that was the size of a 7/8 bolt head.
I bought a bolt and 2 nuts to use as lock nuts and tightened the insert of the gate valve until the O-ring had seated flat.
I have not had a problem of leakage from the installation.
Now the gate itself has an O-ring but you don't want to over tighten it as it will become deformed and leak.
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll312/capt44/gatevalve1_zpsbcbbbe65.jpg)
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll312/capt44/gatevalve2_zps953014ff.jpg)
Just to clarify it is not the fitting though the wall of the bucket that is leaking but the O ring at the gate that opens and closes. Nut and/or wing nut tight or loose leaks no matter what I do.
David,
Take the gate (front piece) off the valve and check the flatness with a steel rule, then check the valve body 0ne may be warped. I have never had to use force on my valves.
Nico
I've had trouble with leaking when the tightness of the screws is uneven. You don't need to get crazy with how hard you tighten the screws, but you do have to keep them balanced
:imsorry: Major embarrassment time! Doesn't leak now. Helps to have the little metal washer under the wing nut - not between the gate and the valve body :roll:
Quote from: Wombat2 on January 05, 2014, 10:27:06 PM
:imsorry: Major embarrassment time! Doesn't leak now. Helps to have the little metal washer under the wing nut - not between the gate and the valve body :roll:
Yeah, I can see how that would help.
Quote from: Wombat2 on January 05, 2014, 10:27:06 PM
:imsorry: Major embarrassment time! Doesn't leak now. Helps to have the little metal washer under the wing nut - not between the gate and the valve body :roll:
:-D
Quote from: Wombat2 on January 05, 2014, 10:27:06 PM
:imsorry: Major embarrassment time! Doesn't leak now. Helps to have the little metal washer under the wing nut - not between the gate and the valve body :roll:
Everyone has these types of moments. :) Not everyone is willing to admit it and put it on the internet. :laugh:
Glad it worked out and you got it figured out. :)
word of warning. If your honey gate has a plastic thumb screw, they will break if over tightened. I did just that many years ago with 50+ pound of warm honey in the bucket. I squeezed it shut and held it until my wife got home to get another bucket. After that I replace all my plastic screws with the metal ones sold by Dadant
Glad you have it sorted. I was perplexed when you mentioned the new valve leaking as well.
Nico