Was just wondering what i should expect to spend for basic supplies i will be making my own hives. but things like a smoker coveralls gloves veil an all the other stuff
I sometimes think your better off not knowing how much it can cost to get started.
Once you have the essentials and if you make your own hives and you learn how to make your own queens it's not too bad.
One complete single box hive, smoker, hive tool, veil, etc I always figured around 400.00
It can be done for a lot more or a lot less.
also-
plan your purchases so you can save on freight. some dealers offer freight deals certain times of the year or with big enough orders. if you have a local dealer try to use them. some dealers also attend local events, seminars, classes, etc. you can order & meet them at the event & save the shipping.
Hive made from shipping crate. 0.00
Bees caught as a neighbor's swarm 0.00
Onion sack and yard sale wide brim hat for veil. 0.25
used smoker 10.00
Screwdriver for hive tool .99
""oh, I want one of those" $1000.00 plus :th_thumbsupup: :lau: :lau: :lau:
Excluding the cost of building materials (wood, foam, glue, stapler, saw blades, paint, etc) I would expect a startup cost of around $200 to $400. While I admire iddee's thriftiness, my advice would be to get a bee suit/jacket, buy a head net, buy wood frames, buy plastic foundation, buy 4 real hive tools (they disappear like candy, they are cheaper at the hardware store), buy a descent smoker, use cheap latex gloves, get a brush.
While "free" bees is great, many people go a lifetime without seeing a swarm of honeybees. Swarms are not all that abundant unless you live near a bee keeper. Craigslist often has "free" swarms during swarm season, but it is work, time, and gas money, to run around trying to get free bees. When you start counting your time, "free" can become pretty expensive! As a beginner, I would recommend buying a nuc or a hive. There are enough variables to master, before dealing with swarms.
A good sized existing hive is a great way to get off the ground. They can be split into numerous colonies and a new beek would be wise to start off with at least 2 colonies; especially in the north.
You are right, Blue. That's where the ""oh, I want one of those" = $1000.00 plus" comes in, and you know it will.
I just started this summer and here are my cost so far. I bought from Mann Lake the suit, gloves, smoker, hive tool, smoker starter pellets, and enough frames for four deep bodies and four med supers, enough for two hives, cost $243.00. Then I made my own hives for less then 100 bucks. Two nucs for $125 each. So my total was less then $500. And a few odds and end have popped up also.
When I started I made all my own wooden ware including frames using mostly recycled wood. I had to buy a smoker, hive tool and veil. Also bought 50 plastic foundation which I don't use because after about a month I found out you don't have to use foundation so I don't. It cost me about $110 plus another $125 for the nuc of bees.
I built my hives and frames so I bought the book "Building Beehives For Dummies" because dimensions are important with bee hives.
I bought wood to build hives and frames - build more than you need because there will always be a need for more.
Wax foundations
I bought two packages for 135 CanD each.
1 smoker
I had a tool which works for a hive tool.
I made a hat/veil, but never use it.
My latest is some swarm catcher boxes. I made after a swarm departed on me. :(
I may try to make a bee vacuum.
all these are good ideas, I bought a bee suit, smoker and a hive tool. I had joined the local bee club almost a year before I got bees. There was an older gentleman from the club came down with cancer. I had stopped by and talked to him often, he lived the closest of the members. When he died his daughter sold me his 3 hives, well established but in need of some repair for 125 per hive and threw in all the old supers.
Every now and then someone at the local club sells most or all there hives. Lots use pine straw, or cardboard, I use shredded paper to start wood chips in my smoker. Since then I make most of my equipment. Good luck
Joe
All very good info. As far as hives i was going to build Langstroth hives but desided on top rail hives. lumber is not a problem as im a semi retired carpenter an have all the lumber i need. I am also very resourceful an can come up with most other tools, the only thing i think i will have to buy is a smoker, I will look for a used one, a veil, will try an get my wife to sew one up for me, a jacket and gloves. I finely found a beekeeper only 7 miles from me an will be meeting with him this week hopefully he will take me under his wing and guide me. as far as swarms go I've seen 3 this year 1 this past week. I dont plan on starting till next spring so this winter i will be doing a lot of reading watching vids. reading some more an then read some more. Thanks everyone for all the info. I will keep yall posted of my progress. And im sure i will have many more questions
An old file cut and bent to shape makes a good hive tool and once sharpened will last a lifetime and cheep as well
At local stores, my full bee suit with veil was $90, added 'bug' jacket, $12. Hive tool $8, brush $7, smoker $25. 1 deep and 1 medium, 20 frames and foundation, all unassembled $60. Borrowed my buddy's frame jig and air nailer to assemble. I chose to use all 10-frame mediums, so I cut down the deep before assembly to make it a medium, and used the cut-off to make a top feeder. That's $202 for equipment, so far. I will need to add one or two honey supers (mediums) so I need to get a couple more sets of box, frames and foundation. I will try partial foundation in the frames. So additional 1st year equipment cost about $55.
I bought my colony in a 10 frame medium nuc, which included bottom board and migration top, was $200. Total 1st year expense so far, $457.
Next year I will add another 10 frame nuc, I hope to be able to split my existing hive, and I know of a bee tree to trap out in the spring ( I don't have the spare brood to try a trap now). So a few hundred more next year. Man, I hope this is good honey!
Quote from: Hops Brewster on July 28, 2014, 02:14:44 PM
Next year I will add another 10 frame nuc, I hope to be able to split my existing hive, and I know of a bee tree to trap out in the spring ( I don't have the spare brood to try a trap now). So a few hundred more next year. Man, I hope this is good honey!
http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,45109.0.html (http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,45109.0.html)
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them. Nucs can come with very big problems. Packages don't seem to be as bad.
My start up costs this year are around $800., Mainly because I kept coming across deals I could not pass up.
I have 6 hives running now will actually have some honey this year.
Quote from: Modenacart on August 01, 2014, 06:46:53 AM
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them. Nucs can come with very big problems. Packages don't seem to be as bad.
Not quite sure that I agree with this staement. could be that 20 beeks and 20 answers to a question kinda thang. Nucs are an established hive with a laying Queen/honey stores/brood. Not much trouble there really. A package is a conglomeration of bees from many hives with zero affiliation to the caged queen thats shipped with that package. Many times these packages die out or leave. Back to your question tho.
Smoker-$40..hive tooL-$8....viel with hat-$28
gloves were a pair of goatskin that I already had and my wife sewed the material on for an elbow length. If cant be done then they run about $14.
Eveything else can be southern engineered. I use a t-shirt and wht dress shirt/jeans/boots. not really a need for a full bee suit.
Like you I make my own hives with frames so the cost of the wood + Titebond III glue and staples/screws. dont skimp on the glue....get the best.
A good nuc will always be better than any package.
A bad nuc or bad package is a disaster.
Going through a nuc before excepting it is mandatory. If you don't know what to look for, take someone along who does.
A Nuc is the best way for a new beekeeper to get started.
It is an established and thriving hive.
I give a State of Arkansas Health Certificate showing my Bee Yard is Disease and Pest Free.
If the customer brings a hive I transfer the bees to their hive.
I always show the customer the inside of the Nuc to show the bees and nest are healthy.
I have a bee suit but hardly ever put it on.
I have a square veil, a white long sleeve shirt, gloves, a bunge strap to put around my waist, and elastic to go around my ankles if I'm working a mean hive.
I build all my hives except for the frames and foundation.
I've found that I can buy the wooden frames cheaper than I can build them.
I use Rite Cell foundation so I don't have to wire anything in and the bees readily accept it.
When building boxes I use mostly box joints, Tite Bond II glue and 1 1/4 brad nails.
I have a jig that I can cut box joints in 8 boards at a time, it takes less than 10 minutes.
The nails act as clamps, the glue is what holds the boxes together.
I use Bessey Corner Clamps to make sure everything is square.
When building the telescoping tops, inner covers, spacers and bottom boards I use 3/4 x 3/8 inch rabbet joints.
For Hive Handles I use a jig for my drill press using a carbide tire buffing tool to cut my handles in the boards.
It is the safest way I've found to cut indented hive handles and fastest.
When cutting the lumber for the boxes make sure when you cut your board to length that the cross cut is square with the rip cut or the box will not sit flat.
Every once in awhile I check my radial saw to make sure the blade is square with the fence.
Then each time I move the fence on the table saw I make sure the fence is square with the blade.
Capt44, How big is the diameter of the tire buffing tool?
Quote from: Modenacart on August 01, 2014, 06:46:53 AM
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them. Nucs can come with very big problems. Packages don't seem to be as bad.
I know the value of a good nuc, but I'll admit I lean towards packages for beginners. The issue is all about experience, or lack of. So...
I
would recommend following the advice about having an experienced person help the newbie hive the nuc. Nucs
can come with issues and the odds are very low that a new beekeeper (who is nervous/excited) will recognize some those signs and symptoms. By the time they do, the hive is almost always a gonner. AND, there
can be queen cells, which the newbie may not even think to look for (depending on if they even know to do so, or remember to do so through the adrenaline rush). Especially if they are camouflaged amongst all the bees or an accumulation of wax at the bottom of the frames.
An Estimated Cost of Beekeeping for Your First Year.
One of the first questions to come up at Beekeeping classes is, "How much does it cost to keep Honeybees?" This is a very good question. Most hobby or back yard beekeepers will keep one or two hives their first year. I always suggest keeping two hives so you can compare the difference. You will gain more knowledge and experience with two hives. The following is a breakdown of cost for your first year based on purchasing all new equipment:
One Hive Setup ----------------------------------- $229
(Includes bottom board, 2 Deep supers, 20 Deep frames, 2 Honey supers, 20 Honey frames, Queen excluder, Inner cover, Outer cover, and entrance reducer.)
Frame Feeder ----------------------------------- $10
Package of Bees----------------------------------- -$110
( 3lbs of bees with a queen)
Clothing and Tools --------------------------------$125
( Veil, gloves, smoker,2 hive tools, bee brush)
Bee School------------------------------------------ $100
(School sometimes includes a text book)
Extraction ----------------------------------------- $15
(Some clubs rent extraction equipment)
Total First year with one hive------------------$589
Total First year with two hives----------------$1038
(Additional hive setup, feeder, package of bees
http://www.nebees.com/tipsandtricks.php (http://www.nebees.com/tipsandtricks.php)
BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
Really don't want to talk about it. Not sure how I spent what I did. Went from two in May to four by July. Jim has a pretty accurate estimate. I will say after the first two, the next ones get cheaper and cheaper, especially when you start averaging. :-D. Next year I am hoping with a winter build session, the cost will drop dramatically.
I had better stop now....my wife might be reading....
Quote from: Modenacart on August 01, 2014, 06:46:53 AM
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them. Nucs can come with very big problems. Packages don't seem to be as bad.
No very big problems with my nuc this year. It's been a healthy, happy colony so far. OTH, many of the packages sold around this region this year have been absolutely horrible with a high loss rate.
Quote from: Hops Brewster on August 04, 2014, 12:01:55 PM
Quote from: Modenacart on August 01, 2014, 06:46:53 AM
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them. Nucs can come with very big problems. Packages don't seem to be as bad.
OTH, many of the packages sold around this region this year have been absolutely horrible with a high loss rate.
Thats my point. I think nucs are easier for a beginner. I hear more about problems with packages just leaving. Queens listless, balled, dead, or missing. Nucs dont have that problem. Yes, they MAY have issues and what not but thats a day in the life of a hive and not near the problesm that packages do. Really, just how hard is it to transfer 5 frames over into a 10/8frme box? Not everybody needs to be spoonfeed and their hand held. Its not rocket science. If someone is going to have bees than one would hope they'd done SOME work and reading before hand.
Quote from: Santa Caras on August 04, 2014, 04:29:15 PM
Quote from: Hops Brewster on August 04, 2014, 12:01:55 PM
Quote from: Modenacart on August 01, 2014, 06:46:53 AM
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them. Nucs can come with very big problems. Packages don't seem to be as bad.
OTH, many of the packages sold around this region this year have been absolutely horrible with a high loss rate.
Thats my point. I think nucs are easier for a beginner. I hear more about problems with packages just leaving. Queens listless, balled, dead, or missing. Nucs dont have that problem. Yes, they MAY have issues and what not but thats a day in the life of a hive and not near the problesm that packages do. Really, just how hard is it to transfer 5 frames over into a 10/8frme box? Not everybody needs to be spoonfeed and their hand held. Its not rocket science. If someone is going to have bees than one would hope they'd done SOME work and reading before hand.
I wasn't aware of it but that is exactly what happened to me. One hive swarmed from two packages. In retrospect I would have gotten two nucs. Plus you'd get honey from them.
The tool is a carbide tipped buffing wheel type cup 3 inches wide x 1 1/2 inches deep.
If the wheel gets clogged with wood just use a propane torch to burn it out.
I have been using mine for 3 years now and never had to clean it.
I have cut enough handles for around 600 boxes.
At that time I give $78.00 for that tool.