I am a first time beekeeper. I will be purchasing my hives in the spring. I have family members who are really good carpenters so we are going to make it a family project to build our own supers. (I have already purchased the hive bodies) However, we are hammer and nail workers. I feel like a nail gun and staple gun would work quicker and better for making square corners.
Can anyone give me suggestions as to what nail gun I can use on 6D nails. And what staples I should use on my frames. I watched the Fat Beeman's videos but I cannot tell what type or model he is using (It looks like it works really good)
Any help would be appreciated.
LB
I got mine at harbor freight. didn't pay to much for it and it's worked well for 5 years. what i did spend money on was a nice compressor :-D
the hive body and frame wood are pretty soft, so it's an easy shot.
If you get a 1/4" crown stapler and some 1 1/2" staples (or longer if the gun will take them) these work nicely for boxes. Get some 1" staples for the frames...
Don't forget the tightbond II wood glue.
I have used nails and staples both on bodies. The last set I really got crazy and used deck screws with the screw gun.
Quote from: CBT on September 16, 2014, 08:31:06 PM
Don't forget the tightbond II wood glue.
I use Tightbond 111 it's supposed to be waterproof.
I use Tightbond III as well, plus I "size" the raw exposed crossgrain on the ends (Smear glue on exposed end wood, allow to dry before painting. I think it is worth the extra expense and time, the boxes I have done that to are holding up very well in comparison to the boxes that came preassembled.
JC
You guys are right. I don't know my tightbond II from III.
I use Thightbond II and it holds up real well for building hives and frames.
Jim
Quote from: sawdstmakr on February 08, 2015, 07:13:07 AM
I use Thightbond II and it holds up real well for building hives and frames.
Jim
Second that, maybe I'm just cheap, and maybe I just think water doesn't get to all that joint or maybe both.
I use Tite Bond II for all my hive components and 1 1/4 inch brad nails.
The nails act as a clamp as the glue dries.
I have not had the glue fail to hold.
I use 3/4 inch long 1/4 inch crown staples for fastening the metal to the tops.
I got my nail guns from http://www.CPO.com refurbished air tools.
I use the staples, 1 1/2 inch on hive bodies, 1 inch on frames. I ran across some liquid nails calk cheap and have been using it in the seam.
Capt I did get my stapler, Hitachi, from CPO outlet. It was an opened box, not refurbished. Have ordered other things from them also.
I use the stapler for lots of things not to do with bees also.
Joe
Quote from: capt44 on February 16, 2015, 06:18:54 PM
I use Tite Bond II for all my hive components and 1 1/4 inch brad nails.
The nails act as a clamp as the glue dries.
I have not had the glue fail to hold.
I use 3/4 inch long 1/4 inch crown staples for fastening the metal to the tops.
I got my nail guns from http://www.CPO.com refurbished air tools.
You got your staple gun from a science equipment vendor?
Ed
This guy is awesome, learned this one about the brad gun. Just wanted to pass it along.
http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Shop%20Tricks/tricks-44.html
Remember to always be aware of where the hand that is *not* holding the nail/staple gun is positioned. If you have your hand placed on a piece of wood directly opposite from where you have the gun positioned...well, it could be a really painful experience. Staples and nails will veer off the intended course at times...give them a little safety distance between them and your flesh. :cry:
Ed
This is the address of cpo refurbished tools.
http://www.reconditionedtools.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-recondtioned-tools-Site/default/Default-Start?ref=msn&utm_source=msn&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term={SI:Keyword}&utm_content=615419436&utm_campaign=11484100395
Quote from: Intheswamp on February 22, 2015, 10:41:14 AM
Remember to always be aware of where the hand that is *not* holding the nail/staple gun is positioned. If you have your hand placed on a piece of wood directly opposite from where you have the gun positioned...well, it could be a really painful experience. Staples and nails will veer off the intended course at times...give them a little safety distance between them and your flesh. :cry:
Ed
You can say that again. About 15 years ago I was building my master bedroom walls on the ground before putting them up. I tried to shoot a nail in a down ward angle into the top corner of the header board. When I fired the framing nail gun, the nail did not go into the wood. At first I did not know where it went. I had used my knee to hold the 2x4 down about a foot from the gun. I looked for the nail and found it in my knee. It was buried all the way to where the glue was that held the nails together. I pulled it out. Cleaned it up and went back to work. That night I had it checked out and the next day had surgery to remove the damaged section.
Not a lot of fun.
Bee careful. Nail guns are dangerous.
Jom
Quote from: rookie2531 on February 17, 2015, 08:22:40 AM
This guy is awesome, learned this one about the brad gun. Just wanted to pass it along.
http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Shop%20Tricks/tricks-44.html
That has GOT to be the best thing I have learnt since Sex Ed at school.
Quote from: Wombat2 on February 26, 2015, 01:58:37 AM
Quote from: rookie2531 on February 17, 2015, 08:22:40 AM
This guy is awesome, learned this one about the brad gun. Just wanted to pass it along.
http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Shop%20Tricks/tricks-44.html
That has GOT to be the best thing I have learnt since Sex Ed at school.
Looks like there would be a market for double chisel tip nails. Now, if I could only hit the center of the board..... :shocked:
Good tips Wombat. Thanks for sharing.
Jim