I'm at the fresh age of 55. I've been building (DYI) since my teens. I recognize the fact that some folk can only go so far due to their skills set and abilities. So for the last couple of decades I've had issues when it came to using a framing square and cutting something square. Even though I followed the pencil mark exactly. I just throwed it in the pile of "Oh Wells".
Yesterday I was making some 8f deeps. When I was getting ready for my second cut when I put the framing square on the previous cut. Not square. So for what ever reason I put the framing square on a couple of the factory cut ends on the lumber. Still, not square. I'm like What?
I then remembered I had my grandfathers million pound framing square stashed in my smoke house for safe keeping. I retrieved it, checked the lumber, square. So, for the last couple of decades I've been using a framing square that wasn't square. That would explain a lot about my other bee boxes. I've never heard of a framing square that wasn't square.
You learned your square was not accurate?
If you place the square on a board and draw your line, then flip the square around to point to the other side and line the edge up with the line. If it lines up it is square, if not then it is not. There usually is a hole and a notch in the outside and inside corner. Those are there for squaring it up. You can put a nail set in those holes and depending on which way you need to go tap on it with a hammer and it will open it or close it.
Quote from: rookie2531 on September 06, 2014, 10:59:39 PM
You learned your square was not accurate?
If you place the square on a board and draw your line, then flip the square around to point to the other side and line the edge up with the line. If it lines up it is square, if not then it is not. There usually is a hole and a notch in the outside and inside corner. Those are there for squaring it up. You can put a nail set in those holes and depending on which way you need to go tap on it with a hammer and it will open it or close it.
Mine is still square as I am uber careful with it but thanks for the tip.
What type of square are you using?
For framing work and cutting wood less than 12", I like to use speed squares. I have several 6" ones made out of aluminum and one 12" one made out of orange plastic. These are very stable and do not change. I also have solid, flat, steal and aluminum 18" x 24" squares that can be bent but you really have to be very rough with them to mess them up. I occasionally check them with the method below. Be sure to use a board that was machine cut and is perfectly parallel or it will look like a perfect square is not.
The squares that are made of 2 or more pieces have to be checked on a regular basis. Toss them on the table one time and they can be out of square.
By the way, if you do not have the first two types of squares, check out your local yard sales. That is where I get most of my tools and for very little money.
Jim
Your right Jim, I forgot to mention that the board you test with has to be perfect straight. That's why I usually use the edge of my table saw and use a sharp pencil. Lights on both sides helps see the pencil mark so its not in a shadow.
Good info, thanks guys!
Another problem you will run into is measuring tapes. Not very many modern tapes are accurate over the length of the tape and the clip at the end of the tape frequently sticks. If you want to build rough bee boxes it may not make much difference but if you want things to fit really nice, use a solid metal ruler that has been machined on a cnc machine.
I realized the something a few years ago, my square wasn't square. I finally found one that was and treat it like something precious.
The first thing I do with a measuring tape is put the clip over an anvil and beat the rivets good and tight with a ball peen hammer. If you don't, the clip will slide back and forth, giving inaccurate measurements.
RC,
The reason the clip slides back and forth is to allow you measure outside measurements as well as inside measurements. In other words, you can measure the inside of the box by pushing the tape up to the board at the far end.
If you never make this type of measurement, locking the rivets will be fine. Just check it from time to time to make sure it did not get bumped.
Jim
Every now and then you may also want to check the miter gauge on your table saw's square to the blade. I found mine gets off once in a while when cutting a good bit.
Joe
Quote from: sawdstmakr on September 08, 2014, 09:45:01 PM
RC,
The reason the clip slides back and forth is to allow you measure outside measurements as well as inside measurements. In other words, you can measure the inside of the box by pushing the tape up to the board at the far end.
If you never make this type of measurement, locking the rivets will be fine. Just check it from time to time to make sure it did not get bumped.
Jim
Jim is correct, and the reason is to account for the thickness of the hook.
We make sure that everyone on a crew has the same brand and model of tape line so anyone that calls a measure to the saw man it is cut right every time. Learned that the hard way!