I wish someone had told me this a while ago.
I've recently found that holding the timber edge down on the table (rather than holding the piece flat) is much nicer way to make a rebate cut in almost every way. I've found that there is less tear out, easier to make nice clean cuts, and I've found it's easier to fed the piece through (especially on smaller width timbers).
Perhaps I'm the last person to twig to this, and this is already how everyone else does it?
I use to use the router table to cut rabbet joints but now I use the table saw with a dado blade setup.
To me it's a lot easier to use the table saw to cut rabbets and box joints.
This is how I cut my rough cut lumber for my boxes.
1. cut to a rough length of about an inch long
2.joint one edge on the jointer, can be done on table saw,but I have a jointer so I use it.
3. cut the width about 1/2" over size.
4. plane both faces to make sure I get any cupping cut out. Make the thickness 3/4".
5.cut the piece to final dimension on length and width.
6. rabbit the ends to 3/8" X 3/8" on router table.
7. Adjust router and cut the 3/8" X 5/8" on one long edge to hang frames on.
8.glue up and staple both sides of rabbits with 1 1/4" long 1/4" crown staples. Making sure the corners are square.
Once the glue dries, you would have to beat the joints apart with a good sized hammer to get them apart.
I like using the router table for the rabbits so I don't have to keep changing saw blades.
Yep changing saw blades from a rip blade to a dado blade take a few minutes to do.
But I cut my rabbet joints or box joints and then to cut my frame rest I adjust the fence to cut the rabbet for the frame rest 3/8 x 5/8 inch deep.
I can cut them on a table saw a lot faster than on my router table.
About the only thing I use my router table for now is cutting the rabbets when making my inner covers for the plywood to slide into.
To each is own capt44. :-D
Something I like to tell people that want everybody to do or like things that those people do,"If we all did or liked the same things the world would be one hell of a dull place". ;)
I hope I'm not hijacking the thread but, since the OP mentioned using a router, I figure he and a few others may be able to help me.
I have a new-in-the-box older router table I picked up at a yard sale for $10. It is a Craftsman 9-25483. The plastic parts are still even all joined together just as they came from the mold.
Question: what kind of router should I get to use on this? I am somewhat a fan of Ridgid tools in general (Lifetime Warranty) but am *totally* ignorant when it comes to routers. I have found and downloaded a couple of review articles from the internet but they are old, being from 2003 and 2004. One of those articles mentioned that the user should be able to change the bit and adjust the bits from the top of the table, which makes sense to me. Any other sugggestions? Any recommendations regarding a specific router model?
Thanks.
-james wagner
A Craftsman router table will usually take just Craftsman routers.
I have a craftsman table saw with the router cut out on the side of the table top. I tried various routers in the cut out and none would fit except Craftsman routers.
I belong to several woodworking forums and most people stay away from craftsman routers because they don't hold the router bits well at all.
My son once gave me a craftsman router. After trying to get it to hold several bits and ruining some nice wood because the bit would work its way out of the router I threw it out. I also have trouble with that dang crapsman saw also. I will never buy a craftsman power tool again.
What ever router you use, make sure it will accept 1/2 inch shanks.
The 1/4 inch shanks Wii snap off.
Quote from: capt44 on November 30, 2014, 01:30:41 PM
What ever router you use, make sure it will accept 1/2 inch shanks.
The 1/4 inch shanks Wii snap off.
Good point. I should have mentioned that also.
disconnect the cord when changing the bit or blades
If you are looking for a router for a router table, get one that is adjustable, move the bit up and down, from the top of the table. I have a really good plunge router on my router table that is a pain to adjust because you have to do it from under the table.
Jim
If you use a scrap piece of wood behind the router cut, it will prevent tearout. Not that it matters much since location of tearout is inside the hive. I don't use router for that cut, just 2 passes with table blade.