OK, now I sound like an idiot I'm sure, but . . .
On Saturday, I assembled my first 10 hive bodies ever and all the frames to go with them. The only thing I didn't do it attach those little metal runners on the lip that holds the frames. I wasn't sure what kind of nails to use as I don't want nail heads to interfere with spacing or how the frames sit etc. Is there a recommended nail size/head design (flat head etc)?
Also, the metal runners I have are bent slightly too far out (above 90 degrees). Is this on purpose to hold the frames tighter, or am I just over-thinking it and they're just bent too far?
Thanks. I told you they were dumb questions.
TEN HIVE BODIES?! How many hives are you getting/have? I just use all the nails that come in the package of frames. Two for each bottom corner, one for each corner through the top bar, and one for each of the spacers. Then again...I use GTB, do you use grooved or wedged top bars?
I just don't use the metal rests. But the frame nails would work.
Quote from: thomashtonOK, now I sound like an idiot I'm sure, but . . .
On Saturday, I assembled my first 10 hive bodies ever and all the frames to go with them. The only thing I didn't do it attach those little metal runners on the lip that holds the frames. I wasn't sure what kind of nails to use as I don't want nail heads to interfere with spacing or how the frames sit etc. Is there a recommended nail size/head design (flat head etc)?
Also, the metal runners I have are bent slightly too far out (above 90 degrees). Is this on purpose to hold the frames tighter, or am I just over-thinking it and they're just bent too far?
Thanks. I told you they were dumb questions.
I think you are trying to put the frame spacers in the wrong way according to your description. The frame top bars rest in the cut outs and the cut outs must be facing upwards.
I use the frame rest in the honey supers only. In the brood boxes I use 10 frames without rest. I found that 9 frames seemed to create too much random comb :?: or some comb too thick and the facing comb in the next frame, too thin.
I dont use the metal frame rest either, I do have a couple on older equipment but I dont use them.
Well, let me clear it up a bit. When I say 10 hive bodies, I mean 10 mediums. They are all being used as brood boxes and honey supers, so I didn't know a better term other than "boxes". They are for two hives. I believe I need 3 mediums to over winter here in Northern Utah and have another two per hive for excess honey. If I need more, I'll run down to Salt Lake and visit Jones' Bee Company for more.
Oddly, none of the frames or boxes came with any nails. Perhaps that's my problem. They guy at Jones' said it wasn't part of the kit. I used lots of glue and an 18 ga. nail gun to put it all together, so that's why I don't have those nails to use. My frames are grooved with Duragilt.
I think I'd like to use the metal rails as I heard you can scrape up your frame rests pretty good with your hive tool if you dont use them.
>I think I'd like to use the metal rails as I heard you can scrape up your frame rests pretty good with your hive tool if you dont use them.
I've had a few that came used that way and the first few I had I put them in. I see no difference. Actally it's easier to scrape without the metal because you don't hit those silly nails with the hive tool. It will fine either way.
Now if you're talking about stoller spacers, that's another subject. They are similar but are a frame rest with a spacer in it.
I think you are talking about metal frame rests....
If this is the case then they may be setup to only hold 8 or 9 frames in a box and if you are starting with foundation - do not use the rests (this year) Do not use them in the brood chamber -- ever.
The rests have notches in them to only allow 9 or 8 frames in a box. You want to have 10 frames in a box in the brood chamber (Someone on the forum uses 11). If the rests allow you to have 10 frames -then you could go ahead. But you want to maximize the amount of brood space. Ie more frames.
the problem with using the 9 or 8 frame rests is that it spaces the frames out too far for drawing out new comb (from foundation). The beespace will be all messed up and the bees will build a lot more brace/burr comb between the frames. It's OK to use them when you have frames that are already drawn out with wax.
Quote from: thomashtonThe only thing I didn't do it attach those little metal runners on the lip that holds the frames. I wasn't sure what kind of nails to use as I don't want nail heads to interfere with spacing or how the frames sit etc. Is there a recommended nail size/head design (flat head etc)?
Also, the metal runners I have are bent slightly too far out (above 90 degrees). Is this on purpose to hold the frames tighter, or am I just over-thinking it and they're just bent too far?
I use the metal frame rests and yes, they
do come bent a bit past 90 degrees. I use them because I think it's easier to scrape propolis and wax off with the metal there than it is with just wood. I just bend the frame rests back to 90 or beyond and then push them down on the rabbet and nail them home. I nail them with 3/4 inch wire nails into the side of the box (not down into the rabbet) so I don't have to deal with the nail heads when scraping. Hope this helps! :D
I think he is wondering if the metal frame rest goes in the direction of an "L" or should the "L" be up-side-down :?:
All great info guys. Thanks for responding. These rests are not spacers. Sorry I wasn't more specific. I think Jay gave me the closest answer I was looking for. Funny how someone else and think of something so obvious but you are totally oblivious to it.