If I read somewhere on this forum about some body using wood screws and glue to put a hive together, I sure can't find it now. My hives arrive today and I was thinking about trying that. Better than nails?
Thanks
Art
As a general rule screws>nails.
Just be sure to use a good glue like titebond 2 or 3 and you'll be just fine with nails.
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I use nails and glue. This will be my 4th season and the equipment is holding up fine. Screws are stronger than nails, however, around here nails are cheaper. I predrill the nail holes to prevent the wood from splitting.
Cost is something to think about...especially if nails and glue work just as well. Michigan with its multiple wet and cold seasons warp wood pretty good around here.
What size nails?
Art
I would use deck screws and drill countersunk pilot holes if you intend to screw it together. Otherwise it will split. I used to do this, but with so many boxes to make, I started just using 1/4" crown staples 1 1/2" long. I'd rather they were 2" long... but my gun won't take those.
I use 100% waterproof glue, together with wood screws - the screws are used principally to hold the joints together while the glue dries, without the use of clamps - of which I've never got enough ...
But it's nice to know that they're there as well as the glue, should the wood ever take-up water and swell. If you buy screws in bulk quantities, their cost becomes insignificant.
I use 4 x 35 (mm) for most jobs, or 4 x 50 if screwing into the end grain of butt joints.
LJ
If you have a nailgun you might consider twist nails. Those are crazy impossible to pull out.
Personally, I have used nails screws or staples just depending on what I have handy at the moment. GSF and I began the same year and I can tell no difference between any of my boxes.
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Great!
All sounds good. Thanks!
I'm with MB. Just use the staple gun with the longest staples it will take.
I use deck screws and pocket holes ala Kreg for just about everything. I don't bother with glue and if I did it would have to be waterproof. If the wood is the type that will warp, just use more screws. I put the screws on the inside for appearance sake and to keep water from collecting in the holes.
I can therefore whip up some boxes in jig time.
Basically I plane the boards to thickness and then cut them to length and use no box joints. Box joints are better, but a looottt of work to make.
When I assemble them I use lots of clamps so they are absolutely held in perfect position.
I don't have a staple gun but if I did that would be the way I go. Maybe someday I'll spring for one...
I did find a nail gun but it's just for finishing nails
I use screws only because banging with a hammer needs things to be a bit more secure to stop it being pushed out of shape. I use a variable speed battery drill/driver and self drilling and countersinking screws and it's all one handed. I am using a powder coated screw intended for treated pine use - found in all applications they "slip" in a lot easier without binding - also square drive type means less jumping and stripped drive slots. Glue plus 3 to a corner on a full deep holds well.
I drill countersinks and use screws and Titebond III. Deck screws resist corrosion better, but plain old drywall screws work if you're going to paint over them.
Before the glue sets, I check boxes with a square and squeeze them into perfect shape with a pipe clamp if necessary.
I would never use deck screws with kreg style picket holes.
If your saw is setup properly and your cuts are square, proper use of the kreg and appropriate screws should make clamping to keep things square superfluous. A lot less work to cut square and let it align itself than to try to keep it square when assembling.
Quote from: flyboy on March 30, 2016, 03:33:37 PM
I use deck screws and pocket holes ala Kreg for just about everything. I don't bother with glue and if I did it would have to be waterproof. If the wood is the type that will warp, just use more screws. I put the screws on the inside for appearance sake and to keep water from collecting in the holes.
I can therefore whip up some boxes in jig time.
Basically I plane the boards to thickness and then cut them to length and use no box joints. Box joints are better, but a looottt of work to make.
When I assemble them I use lots of clamps so they are absolutely held in perfect position.
I don't have a staple gun but if I did that would be the way I go. Maybe someday I'll spring for one...
Deknow,
(On a side note)
That's a nice profile picture. Did you take that?
Art
Quote from: FlexMedia.tv on April 04, 2016, 11:17:51 AM
Deknow,
(On a side note)
That's a nice profile picture. Did you take that?
Art
Yes..it's also the cover photo for our book.
Quote from: deknow on April 04, 2016, 10:23:10 AM
I would never use deck screws with kreg style picket holes.
If your saw is setup properly and your cuts are square, proper use of the kreg and appropriate screws should make clamping to keep things square superfluous. A lot less work to cut square and let it align itself than to try to keep it square when assembling.
Quote from: flyboy on March 30, 2016, 03:33:37 PM
I use deck screws and pocket holes ala Kreg for just about everything. I don't bother with glue and if I did it would have to be waterproof. If the wood is the type that will warp, just use more screws. I put the screws on the inside for appearance sake and to keep water from collecting in the holes.
I can therefore whip up some boxes in jig time.
Basically I plane the boards to thickness and then cut them to length and use no box joints. Box joints are better, but a looottt of work to make.
When I assemble them I use lots of clamps so they are absolutely held in perfect position.
I don't have a staple gun but if I did that would be the way I go. Maybe someday I'll spring for one...
Ooops, ya got me. I also don't use deck screws because they are countersunk. I use the Kreg coated screws which are of course flat headed so they don't accidentally go into far and split the wood. I like them because they are well made screws. The tips of them have a slot cut in them to relieve stress to prevent the wood splitting, or so I was told at Home Depot. The Kreg PH are probably a bit of overkill but I like the looks of them so much that I just do them on everything.
At one time I used deck screws because I had them, but I had a few splits, so I stopped using them. Drywall screws also are OK because of the way they they are made but they rust and are a bit weak.