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BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. => Topic started by: davers on July 29, 2016, 02:54:51 PM

Title: honey supers
Post by: davers on July 29, 2016, 02:54:51 PM
I just harvested 5 gallons of honey off 2 small honey supers that were on each of my 2 deep hive bodies.  I had to leave a small honey super on each hive body because the frames had about 50 percent nectar on the frames.  My question is what to do with the left on honey supers.  I would like to take them off,  do 3 OA vapor treatment and not put the honey supers back on but let the bee's build up their honey for the winter/spring.  Any suggestions besides freezing the frames. Limited freezer space. That means about 20 frames to put some where. Temps are 100 degrees outside. Thanks
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: Dallasbeek on July 29, 2016, 03:08:13 PM
Good question -- if you don't plan to harvest the honey, but instead plan to leave it for the bees, do you need to remove before OA vapor treatment?  There's honey and pollen in the brood comb, so why is there a difference (or IS there abdifference)?
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: bwallace23350 on July 29, 2016, 03:38:25 PM
If I do harvest some honey it is smart to only takehalf of the honey super or should I take all of it? I have enough new frames to alternate harvest with new frames and old frames.
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: davers on July 29, 2016, 04:08:01 PM
Dallasbeek.  I would like to force the bee's to save the honey in the hive body since I heard its not good to keep honey supers on during the winter.  I could take off the honey supers every time I vaporize or put plywood beneath the honey supers each time and harvest again in September but trying to cut down on the work involved in replacing it 3 times
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: Dallasbeek on July 29, 2016, 05:35:09 PM
A lot depends on whether you are plagued by small hive beetles and wax moths.  As I understand it, with either of those around, you don't want to have comb unguarded by bees for more than a day or two.  So it would mean freezing or harvesting it seems to me.
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: davers on July 29, 2016, 06:53:27 PM
I have had no problem with hive beetles but I have had wax moth problems last year.  It seems like the answer is to have a 2nd harvest in a few weeks, take off the honey supers then and freeze them and then start treating for mites.  Thanks everyone.
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: yes2matt on July 30, 2016, 05:32:56 PM
What would happen if, after the OAV treatment, you put the super of open nectar back on the hive but with a box spacer or an inner cover between, like you would "wet" frames?
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: davers on July 31, 2016, 03:37:03 PM
Quote from: yes2matt on July 30, 2016, 05:32:56 PMWhat would happen if, after the OAV treatment, you put the super of open nectar back on the hive but with a box spacer or an inner cover between, like you would "wet" frames?


That sounds good too yes2matt
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: rookie2531 on July 31, 2016, 03:48:12 PM
If you want the supers to be empty, you could just leave them out in the open and let them Rob it.
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: iddee on July 31, 2016, 03:48:43 PM
#1... It won't hurt to use OA vapor treatment with honey supers on. It's harmless.

#2... It's NOT a good idea to do OA vapor at 100 degrees with a lot of capped brood present. Read the label.

I would wait for cooler weather and see what the supers looked like then.
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: davers on August 03, 2016, 12:34:58 AM
iddee...I know its not recommended for a OA treatment due to amount of capped brood present, but with 3 treatments 7 days apart and then another one in Nov/Dec, it would seem that would be okay.  If not iddee, what type of Varroa treatment would you recommend?
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: Duffydog on August 12, 2016, 08:41:13 PM
I would think carefully about using OA as it is a powerful chemical and you willed to protect yourself including an appropriate respirator. Even with treatment there is no guarantee your hives will survive the winter or spring. In terms of super I would take them off. Even if some of the honey is not capped you can test for moisture content. After you have harvested the honey place the supers back on the hives and then then th bees will clean them up. Then remove them and store in a place where rodents, insect and raccoons can not get to them the comb on the frames is critical for next year. I am in the minority but I do not use OA as my health's more important than the bees. I might also add I am not successful at being treatment free, but I am willing to purchase new packages and starting to use local queens.
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: sc-bee on August 12, 2016, 10:10:00 PM
Who says take a honey super off in the winter?  I thought it was called feed. How many brood chambers do you run? But I see you are in Northern Ca. Is it a temp related suggestion? It is just one super, what size? Use a chloroplast sign as the buffer for the OA and remove it in an hour or so. Or less. The OA crystallizes when it cools and will be below.

Iddee... A treatment early morn before the temps reach 100 degrees, is that not right. I am reading now is the time you should treat (3 a week apart) because varroa should be at it highest. And one treatment in Dec for me when broodless.

From the oxavap website:
What is the outside temperature range to perform OAV?

You need an outside temperature of 37 (f). There is no top temperature. The temperature of 37 f is only needed at time of treatment and 1-2 hours thereafter.


When is the best time to utilize OAV?
Another great time to use OAV is in late August/early September when the mites are out-breeding the bees. What you are doing at that time is killing the mites that are emerging with brood and before they enter another brood cell about to be capped. During this time, you need to vaporize 3 times at 7 day intervals.
If you have high mite loads going into spring your can do a series of treatments before you add your supers, however other treatments are better suited to treat hives that are heavily rearing brood.


Can I perform OAV with supers in place?

No, you must remove them or place a barrier between the brood nest and the supers. Cardboard or coroplast serve well as a barrier. You can replace the supers or remove the barrier after all the vapors have subsided and new crystals formed. To be safe, wait approximately 15 minutes after you?ve removed all the seals to the hive.
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: Jim134 on August 12, 2016, 10:31:43 PM
Quote from: iddee on July 31, 2016, 03:48:43 PM
#1... It won't hurt to use OA vapor treatment with honey supers on. It's harmless.

#2... It's NOT a good idea to do OA vapor at 100 degrees with a lot of capped brood present. Read the label.

I would wait for cooler weather and see what the supers looked like then.

    You may like to read the directions on the label. Something to remember the label is the law. It will tell you honey supers off. Hope you all have a great day.

  You will find it on page 3 all the way to the right hand side.
     
   https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/091266-00001-20150310.pdf

       


   BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :smile:
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: sc-bee on August 12, 2016, 10:43:19 PM
Quote from: Jim 134 on August 12, 2016, 10:31:43 PM

You will find it on page 3 all the way to the right hand side.
     
   https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/091266-00001-20150310.pdf


Key phrase, " marketable honey"
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: Jim134 on August 12, 2016, 10:55:55 PM
https://youtu.be/q4WvPNmS7uc

Something you might like to watch to know more about varroa mites.

       BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :smile:
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: Jim134 on August 12, 2016, 11:12:03 PM
Quote from: sc-bee on August 12, 2016, 10:43:19 PM
Quote from: Jim 134 on August 12, 2016, 10:31:43 PM

You will find it on page 3 all the way to the right hand side.
     
   https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/091266-00001-20150310.pdf


Key phrase, " marketable honey"

I see you skipped right over most of the statement.
" do not use with honey supers are in place to prevent contamination of marketable honey"


       BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :smile:
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: sc-bee on August 13, 2016, 12:04:36 AM
Quote from: Jim 134 on August 12, 2016, 11:12:03 PM
Quote from: sc-bee on August 12, 2016, 10:43:19 PM
Quote from: Jim 134 on August 12, 2016, 10:31:43 PM

You will find it on page 3 all the way to the right hand side.
     
   https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/091266-00001-20150310.pdf


Key phrase, " marketable honey"
I see you skipped right over most of the statement.
" do not use with honey supers are in place to prevent contamination of marketable honey"


       BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :smile:

No I did not skip over it, the conversation was about honey supers. Did not feel I needed to redundantly repeat it buttt for those that did not understand the intention, "do not use with honey supers are in place to prevent contamination of marketable honey"  Key phrase still the same  :shocked: :wink:
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: Jim134 on August 13, 2016, 03:26:25 AM
   I see this time you did not skip over the whole statement like the first time you did.
   All I can tell you I do know what the EPA person said for Massachusetts field day 2016. Honey supers off when you apply this treatment
         

                   BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :)
Title: Re: honey supers
Post by: sc-bee on August 13, 2016, 08:22:29 PM
Quote from: Jim 134 on August 13, 2016, 03:26:25 AM
   I see this time you did not skip over the whole statement like the first time you did.
   All I can tell you I do know what the EPA person said for Massachusetts field day 2016. Honey supers off when you apply this treatment
         

                   BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :)

And I would..

BEE HAPPY  SC-BEE 1  :wink: