https://www.kelleybees.com/Shop/32/Hives-Components/Hive-Kits/4269/Kentucky-Special (https://www.kelleybees.com/Shop/32/Hives-Components/Hive-Kits/4269/Kentucky-Special)
I'm thinking of purchasing this ... few quick questions
This is a langstroth hive right?
Doninreally want 10 frames?
I'm going the natural as possible route so I'm doing wood frames with wax foundation...
What style frame do I want for a wax foundation?
I plan on buying prewired wax foundation but this kit appears to not be wired, it's it super hard to wire it yourself?
Sorry for the questions bombs ... this is my third attempt to post so I decided to shorten it up in case I lose it again
10 Frames is fine. I wish I would have gone with 10 frame mediums instead of deeps. 10 frame deeps can be very heavy when they are full. While as of right now that is not a problem for me I do plan on getting older and they could be a problem in the future. That set up looks like a good starter kit. If you don't mind me asking what type bees do you plan on getting?
Are your frames with pure wax cell or plastic cell. Plastic cell will not need wires. If your frames are preassembled then adding wire to a pure wax cell would be difficult. Normally the wire is pushed with a roller made just for this purpose, but the wax cell needs to be on a flat surface and not in a frame.
I use wood frame with yellow plastic cell that is wax overlaid. This best not be used for removal of intact honey comb. The plastic base cannot be cut as pure wax cell. I hope I described this accurately.
Edit 8:46 am.
Van, there is a big difference in comb honey and honey comb. I think you need to edit your post. Many people use plastic for honey comb, just not for comb honey.
Simon, 10 frame Langstroth has been the preferred setup for 150 years. Many newbies are always trying something new, but I think you will find most oldtimers are using 10 frame Langs.
You will want to buy hook wired foundation and wedge top, slotted bottom frames. Many, myself included, will install horizontal wires for extra enforcement.
Unless you want to buy more bees every two years, don't go so natural that you don't check for mites and SHB, and treat "IF" needed.
Wow thank you so much for the speedy and very helpful replies. I don't want to go the plastic route. The bees are more comfortable with the natural wax foundation from what I've read. I'm going to with Italian bees. I thought about Russian but I think for year 1 I will stick with the Italian. My first goal is to understand and order the equipment and order it. Then I'm going to start researching reputable bee breeders. If anyone has any good recommendations I would love to hear them
And I will definitely watch out for and treat if needed and pests. I'm a huge essential oil fan so I'm hoping as I research and learn more about keeping bees that I will be able to treat the hive naturally as possible.
Put your location in your profile and we can answer those kind of questions much better.
Thank you I added my location which is waverly ny. I have a local dadant bee supply company that takes orders for bees but I avoid it because an ex runs it and we aren't exactly on speaking terms. But there's ways around that if it was my best option for bee delivery. one last question about the frames too. I know I'm annoying but I don't have much money to play with and would hate to order something wrong
http://www.kelleybees.com/res/uploads/media//Frame-Style-Descriptions.pdf (http://www.kelleybees.com/res/uploads/media//Frame-Style-Descriptions.pdf)
Frame style d or sg?
There is nothing wrong with ten frame deeps except the weight.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#uniformframesize
The "D" style frames need wired foundation. The "SG" style can use no wire foundation.
If possible I would talk to another local bee keeper and see if you can't get some feral bees. Around my part of the world they fly earlier in cooler weather and they can survive without treatment.
I have a lot of sour history with the local bee keeper in my small town. Eventually I dissolved the friendship. He works at the local bee keeping supply place along with his friends and family. It's just not a situation that would work. I'm hoping to find a neighboring bee club once I get more deep into the whole world of bee keeping. For now I'm just going to rely on the internet and books...
Quote from: Simondsrach on February 13, 2017, 12:26:57 PM
I have a lot of sour history with the local bee keeper in my small town. Eventually I dissolved the friendship. He works at the local bee keeping supply place along with his friends and family. It's just not a situation that would work. I'm hoping to find a neighboring bee club once I get more deep into the whole world of bee keeping. For now I'm just going to rely on the internet and books...
Yeah my local bee club is a little weird. They say everyone has to have only landstroth hives and can only have so many hives per so many acres. None of those regulations bother me as I have over 30 acres, past their top limit, and have landstroth hives but it is just the regulations that bother me.
Mine was a personal history ... I wish I could rewind things and he could go back to just being the beekeeper
Simondsrach, ask as many questions on here as you'd like. I tell folks all the time that this forum board was my mentor.
bw, I currently have 29 hives and a nuc on my property. If you'd ask me a couple of years ago would that be too many hives for one area I would have quickly told you yes. I am surprised at how well they do. You need to mosey on up and sit with us in our meeting sometimes. "Chilton County Beekeepers club, or association or something like that.
Gsf
Thank you
This forum was recommended in the back of my dummies book. But I'm hands on when it comes to learning and like to talk to actual people who've been there and done that ya know....
When I decide to do something I put everything I got into it and like to be thorough without complicating things. I try to be a minimalist too :). This is something I've been talking seriously about doing for three years ... this year I think my finanaces may allow for me to be able to just do it. I don't just want to know what to buy or how to do something I want to know why. Some call it obsessive but I call the word thorough better ... I'm just super excited to start this chapter
In life and teach my daughter another important lesson in life's balances and miracles
Quote from: GSF on February 13, 2017, 02:32:52 PM
Simondsrach, ask as many questions on here as you'd like. I tell folks all the time that this forum board was my mentor.
bw, I currently have 29 hives and a nuc on my property. If you'd ask me a couple of years ago would that be too many hives for one area I would have quickly told you yes. I am surprised at how well they do. You need to mosey on up and sit with us in our meeting sometimes. "Chilton County Beekeepers club, or association or something like that.
Let me know when your next meeting or event is.
You want the D frame. The SG has a bottom and some supplier's wax will be too long and will curl rather than lay flat.
Here is a place in PA that sells bees. He is a member here, but hasn't been on in a couple of years.
http://www.bjornapiaries.com/
I've been buying deeps and cutting them down to mediums which also gives me an extra wedge for feeding or whatever. Works out well. I've been doing 8 frame but I'm wanting to get some 10's now too to play with. I do have some 8 frame deeps for brood and don't find them THAT heavy to lift. I'm sure I could do 2 more frames. Now 10 frame deeps for honey, I could NOT lift that! lol
MT Bee,
If you get a 10 frame medium completely full of honey you will find lifting it and breaking it loose on a hot day to be a bit much. I wish I had 8 frame hives.
Jim
Maybe I will do 8 frame than. What's the biggest difference besides weights... I'm not concerned about producing tons of honey I just want healthy happy bees a nice hobby that helps out nature and of course a little honey to have and share. So for a first timer should I do 8 instead of 10 .... I am small. And I do want this to be an enjoyable hobby not a back breaking struggle
I would do 8 frame mediums. I AM doing all 8 frame mediums. I had to convert from then frame mediums which I converted from ten frame deeps. But I've been doing eight frame mediums now since about 2004.
Micheal
QuoteI would do 8 frame mediums. I AM doing all 8 frame mediums. I had to convert from then frame mediums which I converted from ten frame deeps. But I've been doing eight frame mediums now since about 2004.
That is a lot of converting over the years. I went ahead with 10 frame mediums cause I thought it might be easier to come up with the little do-dads that you can buy for a hive. In the end I have made everything except a queen excluder I bought to use in splits. I will say this though. I have used the heck out of you web site cause you seemed to talk in plain english and also seemed to be more geared to just getting it done with out getting too fancy. What does this mean? It means I could understand most of what you were saying. Thanks for putting the resource out there and I hope you sell a million books.
Cheers
gww
I was originally considering doing 3 medium box instead of two deep for the brood and bottom box...
but my finances are limited. But maybe I should still consider it
Would someone PLEASE explain to me why they would put 10 items in a box, then complain about the weight, or spend more money for smaller items and smaller boxes. It seems to me it would be SO simple to move one piece at a time, rather than 10 plus the box.
I use all 10 frame deep brood chambers and 10 frame medium supers because I can't buy a small radial extractor for deeps.
Quote from: Simondsrach on February 14, 2017, 04:32:20 PM
I was originally considering doing 3 medium box instead of two deep for the brood and bottom box...
but my finances are limited. But maybe I should still consider it
I would advise someone just starting out to go with all the same size boxes. It just makes rearranging things in the hive easier.
Whether 10 or eight frame is a matter of choice. The main difference is the weight issue. As a new beek with one or two hives there is not a lot of time where it is necessary to lift a full box of honey. Except maybe doing a full inspection in the late summer or fall when they have honey stored.
I am one of those oddball people who have to try everything to come to my own conclusions. I have 10 frame, 8 frame equipment and 5 frame nucs. I also have deep, medium and shallow boxes. I actually like the shallow boxes best but that is not the norm so I wouldn't recommend those.
So I would recommend if you are only going to have a hive or two go with 10 frame mediums. If you plan on having 10-20 hives then I would consider 8 frame mediums.
Simon,
I use deep as the bottom brood box as most nucs are deeps. I rarely lift them once they are established hives. On top of them I put mediums. I move the mediums about a lot.
Should you ever need to lift a deep you can do so frame by frame if you are physically unable to lift a full box. (Wow I just had to say that).
If you are a healthy human being lifting 30-80 pounds should not be a problem.
If you are starting new, go with mediums, if you can monitor your hives more than weekly. Otherwise deeps present a Yuge advantage for weekly or less monitored growth.
All depends on your personal needs and schedule.
I personally went with ten frame deeps but wished I would have gone with 8 frame deeps because of the weight or even 10 frame mediums. I am 32 and in fantastic health but I worry about the future. I use shallows for my honey supers though.