Hi Guys,
I've been looking at all the listings for extractors on eBay and I'm curious if anyone has had experience purchasing them. The prices are excellent and the reviews on eBay are pretty good. However, I'm skeptical. Any insight? Thanks.
Maybe a link so we know what you are looking at?
Sure.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Four-4-Frame-Stainless-Steel-Honey-Extractor-Electric-Beehive-120W-Motor/172104814320?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
But this is just one. Easy enough to just pull up eBay and search "honey extractors". That's what I did and got a ton of them. Motor looks questionable but the hand cranked ones look very sturdy.
2sox, greeting. One main concern of a honey extractor is the thickness of the stainless steel barrel or tub. I have seen some, so thin, a person could easily dimple the metal, so metal thickness is important. Also there are two basic types of stainless steel. One type is magnetic and contains iron, the other type is non magnetic, high grade composed of chrome and nickel. The non magnetic is expensive due to the high cost of chrome and nickel compared to cheap cost of iron.
The non magnetic is superior on all fronts. The magnetic type of stainless steel will actually rust and is inferior.
Summary, thickness of metal?????
Magnetic or non magnetic.
I should add the bottom of the extractor should be convex, rounded curved upward, not flat so the extractor will naturally completely drain.
Blessings
I have one of the 2-frame hand-crankers and it works fine for someone like me with 2-4 hives. There is a certain amount of old-school feel (like 1940's home-made!), and a few sharp edges to file down to avoid cutting yourself when handling. I clean and dry really well after every use and have had no rust issues. The thickness of the material is good and stiff.
Thanks for these replies, guys. Useful info. Did you pull up these items? Curious about your opinion.
I did not research. I am/was a certified welder when young before I enrolled in college, so I know steel, stainless, carbon and so on. I also have an extractor, non magnetic, rounded bottom, crank at 45 degree angle.
My concern would be the drive. What happens if the board blows. How do you get replacement and at what cost? For a hobbyist I think it is a fit. They designed it for a hobbyist.
Acebird,
What you say makes good sense. I've considered that. That's why a hand crank system looks more attractive. Trade off is in labor. Motorized can let you do other things while machine is doing the work.
Just heard from seller. Canister is made from 201 stainless - which is mid grade. Still waiting to hear about the gauge.
For that price, if you don't have more than a few hives, and you are careful to keep it clean and dry, the extractor might work for years. Or the electronics/motor could burn up on you next season. Will you be able to get replacement parts? If you have to get them shipped from overseas, will you want to wait that long to do your extraction? For less than $200 more, you can get a solid hand-crank extractor of similar size from a major bee supply company in the states, who would have parts for you should you need them. That is the way I would go, if I could get the extra $125 or so together. Hand-cranking a few supers isn't very difficult, and it takes away the danger of broken electronics shutting you down for days/weeks.
Ace, did you change your avitor, picture to a wolf?
No, why do you say that? Looks to me like 2Sox is a wolf.
Personally I wouldn't worry about the gage. It is rolled steel like a pot on your stove. It might make a good starter extractor. If the drive craps out you might be able to get something here to replace it or use a drill motor.
Ace, Oops, my mistake. Blessings
Just ordered this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Electric-4-8-Frame-Stainless-Steel-Honey-Extractor-Beekeeping-Equipment-Drum/332532946543?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Good advice about keeping a cautious eye towards the motor. These units are all over the place. I'd imagine it wouldn't be difficult to order a replacement motor some time in the future. Same company makes a hand crank for the same drum, if push comes to shove.
Quote from: 2Sox on March 01, 2018, 03:05:22 PM
Same company makes a hand crank for the same drum, if push comes to shove.
You got to have that Ace in a hole...:-)
I didn't try it yet, but my brother ordered honey on eBay. He told me that everything is all right and he is pleased with the product he received.
Quote from: Oliviaman on July 22, 2021, 12:12:06 PM
I didn't try it yet, but my brother ordered honey on eBay. He told me that everything is all right and he is pleased with the product he received.
I ordered a 4 frame one on Amazon. I am pleased with if for now. It has got me through the season and saved my frames of comb! In the future I hope I will need a larger one. The price was right. .30WCF recommended this to me. Thanks again .30WCF !!...
Wombat2 posted a topic featuring his home built 9 frame extractor May 2015 along with some pictures. I am really impressed with the heavy duty design. The topic, though very interesting, was shy on details. 😊 Using my imagination, I plan to build something similar this winter when time allows.
Quote from: Wombat2 on May 28, 2015, 11:44:15 PM
Not one for half measures I decided to make my own 9 frame extractor. My nephew who is a welder of stainless steel made the spinner cage and I made the rest from scrape iron and a sheet of Colorbond.The self draining bottom was fashioned from an old satellite dish.
It is powered by a high torque low RPM drill designed for stirring paint and plaster mixes.
Oliviaman, I just noticed this is your first post. Welcome to beemaster!! Thanks for posting of your brothers extractor! .. :grin:
Oliviaman, welcome :happy:
If you are thinking that your apiary may grow in the future then think a lot bigger than you think you need. The cost is usually not proportional.
Also for the ultimate disease break, if your extractor takes a super of frames, 8 frame boxes, 4, 8, 16, 24 etc, so your frames go back into the same super. A small BK, 60 hives has his hives and supers numbered, 8 frames, extractor 16 frames, and the supers with their frames, go back to their hive after each extraction.
I always look at how the legs are attached to the drum or body of the extractor. I would think that there would be a lot less stress on the body if it sat in a separate base instead of having the legs attaching it's body. When the frames are out of balance my extractor really jumps around and if the legs were directly attached to it I would expect the metal to crack at the attachment point after a while.
Quote from: Beeboy01 on July 23, 2021, 03:04:22 PM
I always look at how the legs are attached to the drum or body of the extractor. I would think that there would be a lot less stress on the body if it sat in a separate base instead of having the legs attaching it's body. When the frames are out of balance my extractor really jumps around and if the legs were directly attached to it I would expect the metal to crack at the attachment point after a while.
That is what I did.... Separate base.
Olivia,
Welcome to Beemaster.
Did your brother buy honey or an extractor?
Jim Altmiller
I buy from ebay.com, and generally, the sellers are from the US. I only pay through PayPal because many eBay accounts are stolen, and there are many unnatural links. I say never pay by western union or any other type that can't be proven that you spent that in most cases, you will never see them again. The stolen account phase cancels the feedback. However, feedback is also essential. If you still want to get something and you can't pay via PayPal, try bid pay. If your money is not stolen, you can make a transfer through china post (https://www.packages24.com/carriers/china-post-tracking) and see how the money will get where it needs to go.
For me, many factors come to play, especially environmental. If you live near a coastline or high humidity area, I recommend going with the best quality stainless that you can get within your budget. As Van mentioned above, there are different grades of stainless. Here in Hawaii most stainless appliances (e.g. BBQ's etc.) will rust...yep stainless steel rusts. That's because it's a lower grade of stainless. This is why commercial and surgical grade stainless things are so expensive comparatively...they are made with a much more superior grade of stainless and therefore have a much greater resistance to rusting/oxidization. The last thing you want is for rust to develop in your extractor and taint your honey! People in some places in the country need not worry about this nearly as much, but in my case and that of many others, this should be a serious consideration. I also like the suggestion above of looking for a machine with good/sturdy legs. Yor extractor is a workhorse and will have a lot of forces applied to it. It is worth investing in a quality built machine made with quality materials whenever possible IMO.
Also, if you think that you may grow your apiary in the future, I would suggest getting one that can accommodate that growth so you're only investing once, if possible. It's okay to oversize your extractor (it runs easier too).