Hi I have been using a slated rack and a screened bottom board for the first time this year and I was wondering if I need to remove them for winter. I am in Los Angeles where the average min temp is 48 degrees F.
thanks,
Patrick
I leave my SBB and slatted rack on all year long. Their presence is immaterial to the bee cluster during wintering.
>Their presence is immaterial to the bee cluster during wintering.
I disagree. I think it would be beneficial. The bees will be better able to keep brood warm (assuming a bottom entrance) because of less draft and it will slightly improve the ventilation even if you have the entrance reduced.
I had them on almost all my hives when I had ten frame boxes. I haven't gotten them cut down to eight frames yet, so I have none on now.
My bees are out flying at 45 degrees. Some people leave them open year round as far north as Alaska.
MB
Were you referring to the SBB only? You mentioned less draft and improved ventilation at the same time which seems contradictory. I have been pondering the benefits of keeping the SBB's and slatted racks under my hive (both have bottom entrances in addition to small top entrances that I used in the extremely hot weather only) through the winter, my concern being specifically with the possiblity of drafts. We can get long periods below freezing here and, rarely, even sub-zero temps at night in severe cold snaps.
No, I'm referring to the slatted rack which has always had as it's purpose, more ventilation and less draft. The flat part at the front of the hive blocks the draft coming in the door. If you have a SBB the slats also break up the draft at the bottom. The extra space makes more ventilation as there is more vlolume of are that is baffled (literally) by the slats.
The slatted rack works like a layer of insultation. An insulation of air space between the air at entrance level and the warm air around the cluster. When I made my earlier comment I had forgotten that advantage. The insulation provided is there whether you're using SBB or not. You can leave the SBB open year around on the basis that the hive holds the warm air above the entrance level so what happens below the entrance level is immaterial.
Brian, Are your slatted rack plans/photos posted anywhere on the forum? I would like to try my hand at building some.
Thanks, Ray
Go to www.beekeepersvoice.com and click on Beekeeping from a Wheelchair. The September column is about slatted racks and how I make mine, sorry no pictures. I'm still trying to figure out how send pictures via e-mail--all my attempts are a big zero.
Brian
One question on your slatted rack - is the front frame member, that which runs parallel with and, in the case of being installed just above the SBB, just above the bottom entrance, any wider (front to back dimension) than the other 3 sides? I have made all 4 of my sides out of 3/4 net width stock.
Double face the front edge. That's 2 boards on that end. I build the shim 1 3/4 inches (1 1/2 inches gives a 1/4 inch bee space topf and bottom of the slats) deep by 3/4 thick and build to the outer measurements of what ever size box you're using. I drill the second front board so that the doweling slips into it like long pegs. When it's done it's skookum (Chinook jargon for strong) and then some. By drilling the second board to give an air baffle above the entrance the hive is resting on a very stable unit that aids in overall hive stability.
SOOOO, whether I buy one, or build one, the larger area of the SBB is placed near the front of the hive?
Apparently. It's certainly the case with some of the commercially made ones though I'm still not completely clear for the need. All 4 sides on mine are made from equal width/depth stock (3/4" by 1 3/8" high) and they seem to be working superbly. I mean, it just seems like one gets a few square inches more space that way. And they are quite solid and stable as I use screws and lap joints.