Upon inspection of my newbie hive it's become obvious to me that I'm going to have to feed them thru the winter as they don't have enough stores. Plenty of bees but not enough honey.
Was thinking about using combed honey because it is available to me. My boardman feeder attracts robbers within an hour of setting it in the box so this isn't going to work. (The syrup drips outside the box) Have thought about buying a top feeder that holds 3 gallons of syrup and is supposed to keep robbers away as bees access it from inside the hive. But will probably have robbers hanging around the outside looking to find a way in.
What would you folks do?
Thanks!
Jeff
I wouldn't use a Boardman at the entrance. Ever. You can put the boardman on top. If it leaks you can get a different jar lid and make smaller holes. Sometimes top feeders don't seal up so well and set off robbing also. If you get one, make SURE it seals well so bees can't get into it from the top.
Before making a decision on fall feeding (how much or to do it at all) should one wait until well into October? Obviously, I refer to areas where a late fall flow is possible. I was getting pessimistic here but over the last week my bees have been filling a lot of comb with honey, the only apparent drawback seeming to be their slowness in building new comb to keep up. Is that typical - slower build up of comb in the fall compared to the spring? More and more I appreciate the benefits of having drawn comb on hand.
The best top feeder I've found is a 1 gallon paint can. 2 or 3 can be put wiithin a super at one time. Clean, unused ones can be obtained at most paint supply stores for a buck or 2. The lid seals well and using a 4d nail to punch small pyramid shaped holes in the lid keeps the openings small evnough that they don't leak.
Expensive doesn't always make an imporvement over the kiss (keep it simple solutions) methods.
When using a feeder like the paint can idea, is it as easy as just setting the can upside down inside the hive. How many holes should you put in the lid. Does it drip a lot and make a mess?
I've tried Brian's method of puncturing a can (or bucket) on a number of occasions and it would seem easy enough (often described in literature) but I have apparently never been able to make my holes the right size; always ended up with a dripping mess. I just gave in and purchased some plastic pail feeders from Brushy Mt. Just be prepared for the initial plop of syrup that comes out when you first invert the pail. And make sure the lid is on tight - I neglected this last spring and dumped a gallon into one of my hives on it's first day and drowned the queen.
one other thing. after looking at the bucket feeder i bought, i can see that it will be very easy to make my own in the future.
if you are having a problem with nail holes, the fine hardware screen melted onto the top of small hole cut in a sturdy plastic bucket, makes a great feeder. brians paint buckets if they are plastic? it seemed to work best when i put the screen inside the lid. on one thick lid, i did it on the outside. that worked ok, but i will experiment with shaking it, etc. to make sure my "weld" does not come loose
i took my husbands welding thingy and used that. he was impressed with the results, but suggested that we find a welding thing just for me. i guess he didn't like the melted plastic all over his :? just don't melt to deep!
Thanks for everyones replies. I think if I can buy/make a feeder that's inside the hive and doesn't leak, then I'll be fine. Do wonder why syrup is better than honeycomb though.
Kathy you should never touch the menfolks 'welding thingy' without permission. That's a big NO NO!!
(LOL)
Jeff
he'll get over it. he only gets really twitchy when i use that BIG saw in the basement, or rewire things. :D
I have tried,and like the quail waterers used and sold by a man in PA. He has written a few articles for the bee mags. He claims the chicken waterers won't work in cold weather as they are too deep and the bees will drown.The quail waterers are shallow enough so that the bees can't drown You place them in an empty super on top of your existing hive.You must be certain that the hive is fairly level and the hole in the bottom saucer is on the downhill side,or all the syrup will leak out. The pail feeders are OK until the screens get propolised.The entrance feeders promote robbing and the girls will not break cluster to feed from them in cold weather.
I use the quail watering bottles from McMurray 1 gallon size if the hive is not level I put a stick or wedge under it I put four in at once so I can really feed the bees thes work the best for me no ants no robbers I have trouble with ants here in L A
kirk
If you want to use chicken waters put marbles or pea gravel in the water tray so the bees don't drown.
>If you want to use chicken waterers put marbles or pea gravel in the water tray so the bes don't drown<
This is OK in warm weather---but come winter I have, from experience, seen the larger chicken waterers leak syrup. The bases are configured differently.
I USE THE 3LB. COFFEE CANS (PLASTIC) TYPE. PUNCH HOLES IN THEM WITH AN ICE PICK ( ABOUT 25-30 IN THE LID ONLY). FILL IT UP WHERE YOU WANT TO AND PLACE THE SNAP ON LID INVERT ON THE INNER COVER OVER THE CUT OUT. I DO USE A SMALL STICK OR SOMETHING SO IT RAISES UP SOME FOR THE BEES TO GET OUT IF THEY WANT TO.
COLVIN