Screened Bottom with Slatted Rack

[Joseph Clemens]

These plans are not for the typical SBB (Screened Bottom Board), as the typical SBB is also a bottom entrance. This SB is not intrinsically designed as a bottom entrance, though with the addition of one of my entrance rims placed between it and the first super, an entrance can be that easily added.

Last year, to overcome toad predation/depopulation I decided to eliminate bottom entrances. I tried various ways to accomplish this. Creating a quick and easy screened bottom board was fairly simple using cheap 1"x2" furring strips:



But even in our hot Summer weather the bees seemed to avoid raising brood near the SBB, sometimes they avoided even using most of the bottom super. Earlier, when I was still using conventional bottom boards, I noticed the bees would frequently avoid using comb near the entrance, especially for brood. To reduce this aversion to the comb near the entrance I had been using slatted racks. So I decided to try them with my entrance-free SBBs, but I was never completely satisfied with the design of the typical "Miller" type slatted rack. Since I was creating my own equipment, I decided to try a variation of the usual slatted rack. Considering that slatted racks are used to give the bees an area to cluster, away from the brood nest, and to enhance the bees ability to moderate their internal nest environment, slatted racks help do this in several ways. So I tried the typical design next to my modified design and compared them together, the results were encouraging. I tried several hives with just SBBs, no slatted racks; SBBs, typical slatted racks; and SBBs, redesigned slatted racks. The bees did well on all configurations. The differences I noticed appeared during the Winter and early Spring (January - March). The colonies that utilized their bottom super most completely, stayed strong without intervention, and built up more quickly were those that were using the SBBs with the redesigned slatted racks. Here is an image of the drop-in slatted rack:


A web page with SketchUp plan files is here: SBB/Slatted Rack plans

The slatted racks are made with nominal "1 by" wood, which is actually 3/4" thick. Many different widths would work nearly the same, the runner/spacers can be changed in width (the plans call for 3/4", but 3/8" works well too, and uses less material) and I only use two runners to further conserve materials, but more could be used without problems. Using a 1x6, I cut it to 18" in length, then 1/2" in from one end I cut 1/4" wide dadoes and space them 3/8" apart until I reach the other end. Next, using my bandsaw I cut these into the runner/spacer strips (widths may vary to suit your preference). Then using 1 by lumber, cut to 12" lengths, I set the bandsaw to cut 1/4" width and cut the slats needed to complete the slatted rack. Placing the runners parallel and on a flat surface at the preferred spacing I then put a drop of glue in each spacer groove and drop in the slats, finally I align the slats, square with the runners, I then place a heavy board to keep the slats firmly in place until the glue sets.

[Cindi]

Joseph, you have spent alot of time putting together this thread, very nice design plans there and descriptions that go along with it.  Good job!!!  Have a wonderfully awesome, great day, more great days to come.  Cindi

[Joseph Clemens]

Thanks Cindi,
As I was putting this post together, and after having assembled a half dozen slatted racks using the plans in this post, I thought of a different way to make a screened bottom with slatted rack built-in.

Here's what I came up with:

Link to zipped SketchUp plans: SketchUp plans of SB+SR

[Brian D. Bray]

Thanks Cindi,
As I was putting this post together, and after having assembled a half dozen slatted racks using the plans in this post, I thought of a different way to make a screened bottom with slatted rack built-in.

Here's what I came up with:

Link to zipped SketchUp plans: SketchUp plans of SB+SR

Turn the racks longwise and use doweling (or round stock) and you have the version I created.

[Joseph Clemens]

Thanks Cindi,
As I was putting this post together, and after having assembled a half dozen slatted racks using the plans in this post, I thought of a different way to make a screened bottom with slatted rack built-in.

Here's what I came up with:

Link to zipped SketchUp plans: SketchUp plans of SB+SR

Turn the racks longwise and use doweling (or round stock) and you have the version I created.

Howdy Brian,
What diameter dowels do you use? I have some 1/2" ones that I got a few years ago. I was planning to try that idea - too. Did you also say that you use PVC in some?

[Cindi]

Brian, for example with yours with the doweling, do you make circle holes in each end for the doweling to sit in so it doesn't move or do you just nail the doweling in place, still not quite getting the concept?  Best of this beautiful and wonderful day, Cindi 

[Joseph Clemens]

Thanks Cindi,
As I was putting this post together, and after having assembled a half dozen slatted racks using the plans in this post, I thought of a different way to make a screened bottom with slatted rack built-in.

Here's what I came up with:

Link to zipped SketchUp plans: SketchUp plans of SB+SR

Turn the racks longwise and use doweling (or round stock) and you have the version I created.

Howdy Brian,
What diameter dowels do you use? I have some 1/2" wooden ones that I got a few years ago. I was planning to try that idea - too. Did you also say that you use PVC in some?

Here's a set of plans I did using 3/4" PVC for my 8-frame hives and including a screened bottom:


And here is a link to a zip of the SketchUp plans: Zipped SketchUp File

[Cindi]

Jospeh how did you get the pipe to stay in one spot on the end frames?  I cannot understand that, I think Brian does the same thing and I don't get the concept.  Best of this beautiful and awesome day, Cindi

[Joseph Clemens]

Jospeh how did you get the pipe to stay in one spot on the end frames?  I cannot understand that, I think Brian does the same thing and I don't get the concept.  Best of this beautiful and awesome day, Cindi

Easy:
1) I would cut the pieces of tubing nearly the same length as the side pieces, in this case - 19",
2) then mark and cut 3/8" deep holes with a 3/4" diameter forstner bit (http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-forstner-bit.htm) in the appropriate locations on the inside of each end piece,
3) finally place the tubing into these holes as I assemble the wooden components.

Other methods can work as well; the holes can be cut all the way through on one or both ends, wooden pins the size of the inner diameter of the tubing can be fastened to each end piece and the dowels held in place thereby, or caps can be placed over each end of the tubing and then fastened into position by screws from the outside of the end pieces and into the caps. I'm sure there are other ways it could also work. Each of these alternate methods would need adjustment of the tubing length appropriate to the technique. Another way that just occurred to me would be to route a slot to drop the tubing into from above, then they could be pulled out later for cleaning or other purposes.

[Cindi]

Joseph, thank you for explanation.  YOu will find out that I am the type of person that needs to know things. I really do, it is like a compulsion.  I have a difficult time with conceptualizing stuff, this drives my Husband nuts. Even when he draws me diagrams of things so I understand, I still have issues, just something in my brain does not work in those ways, I could never be a designer/architect or anything of that matter, the structures would surely collapse and I would be sued, hee, hee.  I have gifts in other ways that make up for this severe malfunction in my brain (hee, hee).

Another question, and I think that this would be the final one, (maybe two questions).

Why the cap on the end of the dowel?

I have asked Brian this before too, but I can't seem to recall from the cobwebs of my mind what the answer was  and I am too lazy to do a search.

The dowels/pipes, etc. run lengthwise to the hive body, but how do you get the dowels to be in the appropriate spots under the frames.  It is my understanding that the dowels should be directly under each frame, or am I misunderstanding something here.  I run 10 frame deeps for all my colonies.  The frames are not always in the identical same spots, they can shift slightly. Elaborate on this please.  Thank you for taking the time to respond to my queries, have a beautiful, wonderfully great day, lovin' this groovy life.  Cindi

[Joseph Clemens]

Joseph, thank you for explanation.  YOu will find out that I am the type of person that needs to know things. I really do, it is like a compulsion.  I have a difficult time with conceptualizing stuff, this drives my Husband nuts. Even when he draws me diagrams of things so I understand, I still have issues, just something in my brain does not work in those ways, I could never be a designer/architect or anything of that matter, the structures would surely collapse and I would be sued, hee, hee.  I have gifts in other ways that make up for this severe malfunction in my brain (hee, hee).

Another question, and I think that this would be the final one, (maybe two questions).

Why the cap on the end of the dowel?

I have asked Brian this before too, but I can't seem to recall from the cobwebs of my mind what the answer was  and I am too lazy to do a search.

The dowels/pipes, etc. run lengthwise to the hive body, but how do you get the dowels to be in the appropriate spots under the frames.  It is my understanding that the dowels should be directly under each frame, or am I misunderstanding something here.  I run 10 frame deeps for all my colonies.  The frames are not always in the identical same spots, they can shift slightly. Elaborate on this please.  Thank you for taking the time to respond to my queries, have a beautiful, wonderfully great day, lovin' this groovy life.  Cindi

First, to be as clear as possible, I was mentioning several ways the fastening of the tubing could be accomplished, one of these ways would be to pre-assemble the wooden frame, then cut the tubing the right length so that you can put caps on each end of the tubing, (caps might fit wooden dowels, but they wouldn't be necessary as dowels are solid), that the tubing including the caps would be the precise length to fit between the end pieces. To accurately fasten the capped lengths of tubing you would drill a small pilot hole (for a screw) into the precise center of the caps, then before assembling you would drill a matching hole at the center points where each tube would be attached to the end pieces, place the tubing in position and screw through, from the outside of each end piece and into the cap, this would hold that section of tubing in place. Repeat for both ends, then for each other tubing piece. This would provide a means to easily remove tubing sections for cleaning or replacement.

The dowels/tubing can be oriented and positioned lengthwise, crosswise, or even on a diagonal (though this would be much more challenging - though not impossible). My latest plan has them running lengthwise because it minimizes how many lengths of tubing are required and subsequently it minimizes how many attaching points are needed - rather than any other consideration. The basics of this design, using tubing, must still consider the bee space to be intrinsic. Bee space, ¼ inch to 3/8 inch must be considered when designing or assembling components such as this slatted rack, whether you use slats of wood, wooden dowels, or plastic or metal pipe. This means that the space between the slats/tubes must stay between 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch - in my recent plan, using 3/4 inch PVC tubing/pipe, and mine is 13 3/4 inches wide (outside dimensions) to be used with 8-frame supers. My plans, using 3/4 inch, outside diameter PVC pipe, has 1/4 inch spacing from each outer rail and 3/8 inch spacing between each length of tubing. Since the dimensions of the outer framing must remain virtually the same, in consideration of the dimensions of your supers, what can more easily be changed, to suit the objectives of the designer/builder, are the size and spacing of the wooden slats, wooden dowels, or pipes. Though I have already designed and built several versions using wooden rail/spacers and wooden slats. I've never noticed any major problems I could attribute to mites, so I haven't really given mites any strong considerations when I am designing these types of bee equipment as I understand others have. These are my considerations: 1) maximize below frame bee cluster space; 2) optimize ventilation; and last in my considerations is 3) giving mites a one-way passage, out of the hive.

In some of my objectives, the first is to maximize bee cluster space -- smaller slats/pipes, with maximum bee space of 3/8 inch between them, provides more space for the bees to cluster, so they can more easily use their bodies and their ability to move air with their wings to maintain control of their nest environment. In this design, using 3/4 inch diameter PVC, besides the 1/4 inch spacing between the tubing and the side rails, there is also a 1/4 inch spacing between the top of the frame and the uppermost surface of the tubing, and a 3/8 inch spacing between the bottommost tubing surface and the screen of the SBB portion of this combination design.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
If I were to design a tubing rack, optimized to facilitate mite drop, I would endeavor to incorporate tubing, first; of the diameter that most matches the width of the honeycomb above (perhaps 1-1/4 inch or 1-3/8 inch diameter), and aligned as nearly directly below the comb, as possible. The curvature of the tubing sides would ameliorate any slight misalignment of the combs with the tubing, because falling mites (due to their size), have very little advantage dropping onto the upper slope of the curve of the tubing, instead of directly in alignment with the openings between the tubing. At least that's how it would seem, in theory. This should be verified by direct observation - to be more certain. And, of course the dimensions of my designs would need to be adjusted to accommodate your 10-frame super widths.

[Brian D. Bray]

Here's a set of plans I did using 3/4" PVC for my 8-frame hives and including a screened bottom:

see picture posted above with round PVC or doweling.

And here is a link to a zip of the SketchUp plans: Zipped SketchUp File

By George, I think you've got it.  That's it exactly.

[Cindi]

Joseph, thank you very much for taking the time to explain things as you did, you did an excellent job and made everything much more clear, thank you.  Have a wonderful and greatest of days, Cindi

[Joseph Clemens]

Cindi,

Here is a close-up detail of plans using 1/2 inch diameter dowel/tube concept.



As you can see, there are an almost endless number of variations that can be introduced, all with a usable final product -- all depending on your own wishes as to how the final product should be. The next step, of course, will be to introduce your creation to the bees so you can find out what they think of it.

[Cindi]

Joseph, you have gone that extra mile to try and show me some techniques and such to create great slatted bottomboards, that shines through and for that I am truly grateful.  Thank you so much.  Have a wonderful and awesome day, lovin' this planet and life we live.  Cindi