Reusing Old Hives

[Samara Bees]

I inherited some 10 frame bee boxes and many frames from a relative that are still in relatively good shape.  Some have been more heavily used than others, but I'd like to clean them up and start my own hive this spring.  Does anyone have advice on the best way to clean them?  I have access to an autoclave that would sterilize any bacteria or fungus, but I'm mainly concerned about clearing off old wax and residue.  One box shows evidence of moth infestation.  Anything special I should do handling that one?

[Jim134]

  Can and autoclave  sterilize any bacteria or fungus on wood  :?


     BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :)

[Kathyp]

i tend not to reuse frames. new frames don't cost much.  if you have a propane torch, you can melt the old stuff off and sterilize all in one sweep.  you can also bleach dip your boxes and allow them to air dry.  if you are going to reuse the frames, take a blade to all the grooves after you heat them (while still warm).  it will make putting in new foundation or strips easier if all the bits are out.

[Brian D. Bray]

I would recommend, just to be on the safe side, to disassemble the hive bodies prior to going over them with a propane torch or such as AFB spores can hide in the cracks and survive a burn off.   Back in the old days I used to take the boxes apart, paint the insides with gasoline or kerosine and toss a match.  One the gas burned out I then smothered any remaining hot spots and went over the ash with a pad of steel wool.  One thing I can say, I've never had trouble with bees accepting or staying in a hive that had been char treated for disease.  Makes me thin I should be doing the same thing with the new stuff before I assemble it.

[heaflaw]

Does a clorox dip kill AFB spores?

[bmacior]

I don't know, but boiling in wax and rosin does.

[slaphead]

Apparently a soak of woodenware in bleach (3% sodium hypochlorite) can successfully knock down AFB spore vitality to the point that a subsequent regimen of Terramycin will effectively control any remaining disease (one reference below).  You'd have to make sure all surfaces are soaked including those hidden inside any cracks or crevices.  I'm skeptical about this working if the wax combs are retained and would burn them and their frames. 

Autoclaving should also work but I'd be concerned about warping the boxes.  If you take the autoclave route you want to remove all the wax and propolis, soak the woodenware in water (to hydrate the spores) and then autoclave in sealed biohazard bags with a melt tube in each bag to make sure the items reached sterilization temperature.  You should lean towards over autoclaving than under.  Leave the items in their bags for 24 hours after the first autoclave run and then autoclave them again.  This second run should kill any spores which have been encouraged to germinate after the first run (bacterial spores are tough).  At this point the viable spore load should be low enough for you to be able to use the boxes if you adopt a regimen of Terramycin treatment.  If your goal is to avoid chemicals entirely the scorched box approach is going to be better.

Incidentally both of these approaches should also address contamination by Nosema.

Slaphead

W. Dobbelaere, D.C. de Graaf, W. Reybroeck, E. Desmedt, J.E. Peeters, F.J. Jacobs (2001)Disinfection of wooden structures contaminated with Paenibacillus larvae subsp. larvae spores Journal of Applied Microbiology 91 (2), 212–216

[Kathyp]

you can use HTH if you want a stronger solution.  contact is all it takes to kill most things.  investigate the hardiness of AFB.  when you have achieved the required contact time, rinse and let dry.  chlorine breaks down very quickly, but if used at a higher concentration will leave a 'salt' deposit behind if you don't rinse.

[wayne]

 What do you know about the history of these boxes? If their past is clean and you know the owner I wouldn't worry about them. BUT, if you do not know it's better to be safe.