moving feral colony to new hive on same property, how to and help

[msgoldielocks]

Hi,
My back story is in my greetings post "Hi from Lower Alabama" (due to being new and not enough posts, I cannot post a link here *sorry, I tried)

We we have a feral colony in the wall of our house, access to them is not going to be a problem.  They've been there for couple of weeks.

I have a kit from Mann Lake that includes 2 10-frame hive bodies.  I do not have a queen excluder or screened bottom board, I feel like I may need these.

We want to move them to the bottom of our property which is about 100 yards from where they are now.

Can anyone lay out what a successful plan may be?  I understand it's hard to move them a short distance, and I do have a friend about 5-6 miles from here who would happily let us park them in his yard for a week or 2 if we need to do that.

Thank you in advance.

[Intheswamp]

One of the first things I would do is go to this link and watch lots of JP's cutout removals...  http://www.youtube.com/user/JPthebeeman/videos  JP has some of the best bee removal videos around and is highly knowledgeable about his work. 

Basically you will want to do is rubberband the *BROOD* comb into your frames...stretch a few rubberbands over the frame from top bars to bottom bars to hold the comb in place.  Keep the comb pointing in the upward as it was in the hive...the cells in the comb have a slight upward slope to them and this keeps the larvae situated as they should be.  Put these frames in the center of one of the hive boxes.  If you find some nice pollen comb you can put some of this in a frame to the outside of the brood comb.  *Do not* try to rubberband in honeycomb as it will make a big mess.  Get all of the brood that you can rubberband into frames....you will lose some.  You will probably only need a single box unless it is a really big colony.  If you don't have enough rubberbanded frames to fill the box then add some drawn frames of comb if you have it or either frames of foundation if you don't.

Constantly stay on the lookout for the queen and catch her if you can.  A plastic "hair-clip" queen catcher is *very* handy for this.  A "bee vac" makes things a lot easier, but removals were done for many years without one. ;)

Don't worry about a queen excluder.

I like screened bottom boards.  You can also turn them into some good small hive beetle traps.... http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,44893.0.html

I would have some beetle traps ready to install in the box as soon as the cutout comb is inside.  I use Beetle Jail Jrs. but there are several types of "in hive traps".

Stay on your guard in regards to small hive beetles...they will kill a colony of bees FAST.  Being in south Alabama you are not only "Deep in the Heart of Dixie" but also deep in the heart of beetle territory.  Have your traps ready.

For the easiest relocation I would carry the hive to your friends house and leave them for several days...at least 3-4 days...before bringing them back.  You need to seal the cavity that you remove them from *very well*.  You might even want to spray some Bee Quick or something similar in the cavity to repel them...the old bee smell is a strong attractant to other bees.

You will probably want to feed them some sugar syrup to help them get started.  There are several methods of feeding.  I use mason jars.  Others use division feeders, hive-top feeders, baggies, etc.,.

In regards to the small hive beetles again...full-sun is the best place to put the hives.  Beetles seem to be a bigger problem in shady areas.  Full sun.  Full sun.

Well, I hope that gives you something to think about.  It's definitely doable, but there's things you need to do to make it a successful removal.  I'm sure others who have done more than I have will give you more advice.

Best wishes with the removal and relocation.
Ed

[Michael Bush]

Just move them.  Then put a branch in front of the door.  Leave nothing at the old location.  They will sort things out in a couple of days.

http://bushfarms.com/beesmoving.htm#between

[Steel Tiger]

close off any entrances to the old site so you don't have a new swarm find it's way in.

[Joe D]

Get plenty of the rubber bands to hold the comb in the frames.  Be sure that you get the Queen.  Like Michael Bush said, once you get them in the hive and move them have a branch or two to place in front of the entrance.  I have moved some 10 to 100 yards with out any trouble, so far anyway.  Cut the comb to fit in the frame.  When I move a hive I have some aluminum screen rolled tight and a few inches longer than the entrance that I cram into the entrance with the hive tool.  I also put a tie down around the hive so it doesn't come apart, lid and bottom on.  Good luck.  I'm sure you will do fine, just take your time it will all work out.




Joe

[Dallasbeek]

I followed Michael Bush's method last fall wo move a hive two blocks and can say it works 100% like he says.  I split that hive and now need to move both about 20-30 yards into a sunnier spot.  I have no doubt it will work if you just follow Mr. Bush's instructions.  So much for two feet or two miles!  as Iddee says all the time why do more work than you have to?

Gary

[msgoldielocks]

Thanks for all the info. I'll update or be back for more questions.