Your Goto Method Of Detouring Wax Moths From Stored Comb?

[rast]

As Iddee said above it lasts several years.

[Bill Murray]

I ordered some, but 1 more question. Is BT all the same? couldnt quite figure that out. And if it lasts forever it really wasnt that expensive.

[The15thMember]

I ordered some, but 1 more question. Is BT all the same? couldnt quite figure that out. And if it lasts forever it really wasnt that expensive.

It's my understanding that certain strains of BT are more effective against certain insect species.  The BT subspecies "aizawai" is the one recommended for wax moths.  I'm not sure if the other strains would work or not, but at very least I doubt they would work as well.   

[rast]

As 15th said, the aizawai strain is what I have always used because it was what was originally approved under the old original Certan product. There are those that use the kuharski (sp) strain available in garden stores and claim no ill effects. Yes its inexpensive unless you pay for the legal testing and approval through a major supplier the same as oxalic acid.

[JurassicApiary]

I too have started using Xentari BT this year.  Has worked flawlessly so far.

[2Sox]

I place the entire medium into my upright freezer for 36+ hours.  Then I stack them on top of a plastic sheet on the floor and cover the top of the stack.  Para Moth hasn?t been necessary. No problems.

[Bill Murray]

Well arrived today, I will spray tomorrow. But has anyone tried a dunk? Just wondering cause that seems more efficient.

[rast]

No Bill, hard enough to get them dry after spraying, here in FL every mildews pretty quick if it doesn't dry.

[BeeMaster2]

Bill,
When I used BT, I just put it in a spray. One sweep across each side. It does take a while but it does protect them.
Jim Altmiller

[JojoBeeBoy]

I used Xentari stuff a couple years ago. Did have wax moths, but most of the combs had zero protein in them. I did some late splits to accommodate some left-over queens. This took care of much of mine. I'm going to all deeps and only pulled 4-5 gallons of honey 3x, pulling only a few frames here and there.

Thinking about getting a used freezer specifically to keep frames in.

[Ben Framed]

Thanks Jo Jo.   Good information here from each of you.

[NigelP]

Interesting thread.
Here  (UK) it is illegal to use moth balls (para-dichlorobenzene) to prevent wax moths. Some worries about it potentially contaminating the wax in the comb and then leaching out into honey next year.
Greater Wax moth is our major problem. For years I used to spray my brood frames with Certan B401 and store in my bee shed. Then it became unavailable. I was told by supposedly reliable sources that dipel BF would do the same job. It?s made from a different bacteria than B401 and is used for biological control of garden caterpillars and other pests.
I can tell you it doesn?t work for wax moth, over here at least! I lost over 12 full boxes of drawn brood frames that winter. All sprayed as usual and stored in bee shed.
Currently now changed practise to treating frames with burning sulphur strips before sealing top and bottom of the stacks with poly sheets and storing them outside. I think the combination of the Sulphur dioxide from the burning strips killing any insects (or eggs) present and the relative cool temperatures outdoors stop any further infestation. The down side is I get quite a few mouldy frames next spring, particular any with pollen stores in.

[The15thMember]

Interesting thread.
Here  (UK) it is illegal to use moth balls (para-dichlorobenzene) to prevent wax moths. Some worries about it potentially contaminating the wax in the comb and then leaching out into honey next year.
Greater Wax moth is our major problem. For years I used to spray my brood frames with Certan B401 and store in my bee shed. Then it became unavailable. I was told by supposedly reliable sources that dipel BF would do the same job. It?s made from a different bacteria than B401 and is used for biological control of garden caterpillars and other pests.
I can tell you it doesn?t work for wax moth, over here at least! I lost over 12 full boxes of drawn brood frames that winter. All sprayed as usual and stored in bee shed.
Currently now changed practise to treating frames with burning sulphur strips before sealing top and bottom of the stacks with poly sheets and storing them outside. I think the combination of the Sulphur dioxide from the burning strips killing any insects (or eggs) present and the relative cool temperatures outdoors stop any further infestation. The down side is I get quite a few mouldy frames next spring, particular any with pollen stores in.

Oh man, that is rough!  How horrible to lose all that drawn comb!  I deal with mold a lot in my location too, and it can be a real pain.  At least the bees are pretty good at cleaning it up.  It's a shame you don't have colder winters; a good hard freeze is probably the best and easiest way to deal with the little pests.  It's hit or miss for us where cold winters go, so some years I have more trouble with wax moths and hive beetles than others. 

[NigelP]

Oh man, that is rough!

It was a horrible mess 
But we survived....

[Bill Murray]

I am opening this back up. I took some BT treated (sprayed) out today and they were moldy. Does this always happen?

[G3farms]

You did not let the BT dry before you stored them away.

[G3farms]

I like to spray on a warm sunny day, making what I call "teepees" with the frames. Stand three to four of them on end all leaning against each other at the top. I does not take long for them to dry, be careful or they will melt down in the sunshine. All it takes is a fine mist to reach the bottom of the cells, I would not dunk or drench them.

You can buy Bt at good garden centers or off of the internet, much much cheaper than certan. Once mixed with water it is only good for maybe two day then it will go rancid. Mix 2 teaspoon to the gallon. A one pound bag will last you and your buddy a good while. Do wear some type of mask when handling the powder.