Supercedure cells? Leave or not?

[TwT]

yes keep the good cell, you dont want the other to hatch first and kill the cell you want.

[TwT]

oh and after you do this split and if didn't find the queen check the one you think has the queen and see if you find her or see eggs, if you dont she might be in the cell hive so you will need to be careful with the cell frame but look for eggs in it also, you need to know which one she is in before your cells are ready to hatch to keep from losing her. oh and if you look in the hive you think she is in and find they are building cells is a good sign she is in the other hive.

[Brian D. Bray]

I build my nucs double stacked (10 frames) before I transfer them over into 8 frame mediums I then put 5 frames into each medium box when I change them over from the nuc boxes.  If you're using 10 frame equipment you can either put all 10 frames in one box or put 8 in the bottom box and use 2 for bait frames in the upper box.

What's the advantage of giving them 5 empty frames above them versus 5 empty frames to the side if they were transferred into a 10 frame box?

TwT, do the inner covers on a nuc have to be spaced (shimmed) above the frames to allow for bee travel as in a regular inner cover?

Bees work up and down better than sideways.  Other considerations is that is easier for a smaller quantity of bees to regulate temperatures etc in a double stacked nuc as it is more like a double brood box in an 8 or 10 frame hive for the smaller amount of bees.  Putting the frames above the empty expansion frames will encourage the bees to draw the combs much faster as they are underfoot in their travel path too and from the hive and not off to one side or the other of the entrance reducer. 

I think if you use a double stacked nuc for your splits and see how well and fast they develop that you'll use the method a lot because it works.

[Ernest T. Bass]

Sounds like a good idea, and you certainly know a whole lot more than I do! I can't thank you guys enough for the help..

So, it's okay to feed the split curing nectar instead of honey?

[Brian D. Bray]

Sounds like a good idea, and you certainly know a whole lot more than I do! I can't thank you guys enough for the help..

So, it's okay to feed the split curing nectar instead of honey?

Yes, feeding uncapped nectar is the same as feeding simple syrup. The frame of stores I put in my split was uncapped nectar.  The bees were filling in as the drones hatched.  I had to chase off a few drones with their beaks in the bucket.  I saw 6 drones feeding themselves from the uncapped cells.  That puts to rest that old myth about drones having to be fed by workers.  I have thought at different times that I have observed a drone feeding itself from uncapped cells but this is the first time I've seen 6 within a 4 inch circle doing it at the same time.

[Ernest T. Bass]

Yeah, I hate to think of all the stores that those drones are consuming in my one hive.. I sure hope the ladies kick 'em out sooner or later!

[Ernest T. Bass]

Seems like any time I want do do something w/ my bees the weather gets cold and rainy.. ::) This afternoon will be mid-70s, but it won't be that warm again until next Thursday, with some days in the 50s..

Since I will definitely have to have those hives open for a while while I try to find the queen and make the splits, I'm thinking I'd better do it today or later next week. Am I safe in waiting that long? The queen won't emerge from a capped cell for eight days, and the cells were not capped at my last Thursday inspection, so I should be okay for a week, right?

Even mid-70s aren't very warm for an open hive either, so I'm afraid of chilling the queen larva if I do it today and they haven't been capped yet..