Entrance reducer - does it hurt the hive to leave it on?

Diane · June 29, 2011, 06:19:13 PM

Hello all, We have a one year old hive (+ one month) and I cannot get the entrance reducer off. I think the only way that I will be able to get it off is to take the bottom brood box off. Is it worth disturbing the hive that much in order to remove it? It seems to be a very strong hive. We have a screened bottom board on which was left on over the winter, so I think they are getting enough ventilation. Thanks in advance for your help.

Finski · June 29, 2011, 07:30:22 PM

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I have just now a great nectar flow. I drilled some upper entances that traffic goes.

My hives have 6-8 each.

My balance hive has increased weight in 3days 16 kg. Nearest canola field is at the distance of 2 km.

I have moved hives in the middle of canola fields and ratio 5 hives / 25 hectares. I supppose that weight increase is 10 kg in a day. It is nice to look those fields. Another case is 9 hectares and in the morning I bring there 3 hives.

If the canola is at the distance of 1 km, 50% of yield will be lost.

If the distance is 2 km and it is misty rain in several days, no surplus will exist.

So it depends, what bees are doing.....

JP · June 29, 2011, 08:54:27 PM

With a sbb on you can leave the reducer on. I know a guy that uses solid bottoms and leaves reducers on 24/7. You should be fine. BTW, you wouldn't be setting them back if you removed it either.

...JP

AllenF · June 29, 2011, 09:00:38 PM

I left most of my all reducers in this spring and did not pull them out.

Wits End · June 29, 2011, 09:08:23 PM

I decided since we have such a bad problem with wax moth to leave mine on this summer and the bees don't seem to be suffering at all. I also have sbb and inner and outer covers.

L Daxon · June 29, 2011, 10:33:58 PM

In nature you see bees don't always have very large entrances to come and go and seem to do fine. But as busy as it seems outside some of my stronger hives during the flow, I can't help but think that the smaller entrances would slow them down some.

Finski · June 30, 2011, 12:42:15 AM

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When you have a mesh floor, the entrance has nothing to do with ventilation. Is only a gate via which bees go.

If it has a rush, make it bigger. Drill, hammer, ax, sharp knife, riffle or what ever gun...

What kind of openings nature has, it has nothing to do with beekeeping.

T Beek · June 30, 2011, 08:51:05 AM

I use top and bottom entrances. Top is just a notch in bottom of inner cover, bottom is the smallest available on the reducer. Most activity is on top, while it seems the undertakers use the bottom most.

thomas

Diane · July 06, 2011, 12:43:11 PM

Thank you everyone, I think I'm going to leave them on as the bees seem to be fine with it. Eventually I think we will drill a upper hole as some of you mentioned you have. A local experienced beekeeper does that as well and it made sense to us.

Once again, I appreciate all of your feedback, it's invaluable. Also, I apologize for the delayed response.

Diane

T Beek · July 06, 2011, 12:53:01 PM

Save your supers, please don't drill holes in them :'(. A fantastic Top Entrance is simply a 2" notch on "BOTTOM" of inner cover. That way the entrance moves up/down as the colony expands/contracts (as you add supers entrance is always on top). If you don't use a vent box above inner cover just remember to pull the telescoping cover all the way forward for bee access.

thomas

bassman1977 · July 06, 2011, 02:26:39 PM

I no longer take my reducers off.

mikecva · July 06, 2011, 02:46:53 PM

I also run with the reducer in place all year. I also add a mouse guard in the fall but remove it in spring when the bees start flying after their cleansing flights are over. -Mike

Scadsobees · July 06, 2011, 02:49:42 PM

I no longer put my reducers on :-D Just a mouse guard...

I agree though, either way should be fine. A few holes drilled in the boxes work fine too.

T Beek · July 06, 2011, 07:45:10 PM

Then you've got boxes w/ holes (that now have to be closed when not in use).

thomas

L Daxon · July 08, 2011, 04:15:13 PM

I have 3/4 inch holes in my honey supers. Easy to close up with duck tape if I need to close them.
Makes it easy for the girls to get in and out when the flow is on and they are working the supers, and not a very big area to defend if robbers are about.

ccar2000 · July 08, 2011, 11:34:56 PM

I leave the bottom entrance reduced to about one half of the width of the hive. I also use an upper entrance above the second brood box in between the excluder and the first super. It is full width.