Employing Michael Bush's method

[biggraham610]

A couple questions, maybe yall can answer for me.

      I am planning on expanding my hive count as my main goal this year. After some research, I am leaning towards employing Mr. Bush's method of top entrance, and all mediums. Thanks for any input. G

1; It seems only wise to use all of the same size boxes for the obvious reasons.

2; It seems much more economical to manufacture my own woodenware, and the migratory cover with shims and slatted rack bottoms seem acomplishable without much trouble.

3; The method has undoubtedly been very successful for Mr. Bush.

My questions are,

1; For overwintering purposes, is there a solid bottom, similar to in a sbb that is used in winter as a break or is the slatted rack with wire open all winter?

2; Does Mr. Bush, or any of you employing the same methods reduce the top entrance in the winter? I would assume so for heat loss concerns but havent read.

3; Does anyone reading this run the same setups and are your experiences as positive as with traditional hive setups? ie; telescoping top, inner cover, bottom entrance.

Thanks again for any input. G  :-\

[biggraham610]

Nobody using these methods? :?

[BeeMaster2]

I have switched to all mediums, though I think I still have a couple of deeps left in the yard. It is much easier to use all one size while manipulating the hive when they are all the same. I use Screen top Boards (STB) on all of my hives.
Jim

[Robo]

I'm not a fan of top only entrances.  I would suggest you try a couple first to make sure it is for you, before going hog wild.

Let me summarize how a hive inspection goes.

1.  You take the cover/top entrance off and start looking through the frames in the top hive body.  Everything seems pretty normal,  bees from the lower hive bodies continue to come up through the hive body to where the exit is suppose to be and fly off.  Returning field bees return to the top of the hive and land on the edge of the hive body where the entrance use to reside and head down to the lower hive bodies.

2.  You complete looking through the top hive body but want to see more below, so you remove the top hive body.   Immediately returning field bees can't locate the entrance because it is gone.  They fly around a little taking a 2nd approach to find it still not there.   As time ticks by, more and more field bees return and can't find the missing entrance and add to the amount of bees flying around lost.   Exiting bees come up through the hives bodies and find the entrance gone but fly off the lip of the now highest hive body.  Most just fly off to forage, but some will swoop around a few times to try and reorient.

3.  As you continue to inspect the frames of this high body the number of "lost" bees flying around continues to grow.  

4.  You still feel pretty calm and decide to go another hive body deeper.   About half way through the inspection of this hive body,  you start to not feel so comfortable standing in a thick swarm of misguided bees and decide it is time to get things back in order.  

5.  You attempt to put the hive bodies back on the stack only to battle not to crush a lot of bees that continue to pour out over the lip of the hive body in an attempt to exit as well as disoriented bees landing on the remaining hive bodies and climbing up and over into the hive.   You loose the battle.

6.  Repeat and loose the battle of step 5 for each hive body you need to put back on.

7.  Decide you are stress out enough not to try to inspect another hive today.

* and I spared the part of re-installing frames when bees are pouring over the frame rests  :o

[biggraham610]

Thank you both for your replies. Thoughts duly noted. And Im not big enough to really hurt myself as it will just be a few hives at first, but we will see. Thanks again. G  :chop:

[Robo]

it will just be a few hives at first

Then now is a good time to try things out and see what works best for you.

Good Luck.


Rob...

[biggraham610]

Thanks again Rob, I will keep you posted. G :bee:

[annette]

I use all mediums having read Michael Bush's posts, and website.  I also have a top entrance and a bottom entrance. I make the bottom entrance smaller in the winter, but have left the top entrance open.  Although I just started to make these little awnings over the top entrance which does close provide some protection from driving rain.

I use all screened bottom boards all year round, but I am not as cold as you are. Although we do get down to the 20's and 30's at night for a couple of months.

I am never sure whether to close up the bottom board, so I just leave it open.

[biggraham610]

Thanks for your input Annette! G :)

[alfred]

I've been using all top entrances and mediums for several years. I really love it, wouldn't switch back. Here are some other threads on the subject:

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,29234.msg230414.html#msg230414

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,40577.msg352849.html#msg352849

Alfred

[Dallasbeek]

Sawdustmakr (Jim),

I'm unclear about screened top covers.  Do you have a screen with a solid cover over it? That would certainly solve our problem of lack of ventilation when it gets over 100 degrees here in Dallas, but I'm guessing you have something to keep rain out (which we don't get a lot of here, but then sometimes....)
Gary

[BeeMaster2]

Sawdustmakr (Jim),

I'm unclear about screened top covers.  Do you have a screen with a solid cover over it? That would certainly solve our problem of lack of ventilation when it gets over 100 degrees here in Dallas, but I'm guessing you have something to keep rain out (which we don't get a lot of here, but then sometimes....)
Gary

Dallas.
Yes I use a telescoping cover over it. They are easy to make. Take a super, cut a 1 1/2" section off, cut an 1/8" slot in the middle of each side with a table saw by pushing the board down on the blade but it is only in the center of the board. It is to allow air flow. Staple a piece of window screen on one side, add a 3/8" x 3/4" spacer over the screen all the way around the edge.
The 3/8" space keeps bee space above the frames. It is a little more than needed but the screen tends to sag.
The slot also allows SHB's to enter on top of the screen. When you open the cover be ready to play whack a mole and kill the beetles. They will also die on their own because the screen because the cannot get the bees to feed them.
Jim

[Brother Dave]

I will share what I am doing. I am running 10 frame med boxes and top entrances I have left a small opening for a bottom entrance only to leave open in spring and summer. closed in fall and winter. my hives are dryer in the winter now. and I had no problems from cold. I live in a cool wet area. so keeping the bees dry is more important here. I put shims under the inner cover acting as  my top entrance. I use a top feeder on top of that covered by a deep box and telescoping cover. I love foundation less frames.  Michael bushes methods are useful to me. my goals are probably some what different than his. also I have only three hives so my needs are different.

David

[biggraham610]

Thanks for the input yall. G
Picture......Bees balling Hornet :-D

[BeeMaster2]

I did not think that our bees knew how to do that.
Jim

[biggraham610]

I didnt either Jim, until I witnessed it last year. I assume the hornet was trying to enter and they jumped him, they may have dragged him out. I saw them on the landing board and didnt know what was going on, they rolled to the deck and I watched it unfold. Here some more of the pics.

[BeeMaster2]

Good set of photos. Have you seen the utube video of a Baldface Hornet entering a hive with the bees doing a wave and then attacking the hornet?
Jim

[biggraham610]

Thanks, and no I havent, But I will check it out............ G

[annette]

Funny you posted the bees balling the hornet. My first year of beekeeping back in 2006, the bees did the same thing.

See photos below I took back then

[biggraham610]

yeah, thats how my experience went, on the porch, just not as many bees, my hive was struggling then, but its my strongest in the yard now! :laugh: