Deep construction

[BigRog]

I'm looking at the 10 frame deep langstrom plans at beesource nd I notice that the hieght is 9 5/8"
A 1 x 10 will only give me 9 1/2"
So does everybody use 1 x 12 and rip them?

I have 4 hives to build
I am getting three packages for myself and amd building one for a friend who bought a house in upstate NY and doesn't know that he and his GF are about to become beekeepers!

[Robo]

Rog,

I use my own rough cut, so I have no standard size :shock:   I use a finger joint router bit to "splice" boards that are not wide enough.   Yes it is a little extra work,  but I guess it depends on your time and resources.

[Jerrymac]

I use the 1X12 and rip it to size. I then take the skinny left over pieces and cut a 45 degree angle and use it for handles instead of putting the fancy indented handle into the wall.

[Beth Kirkley]

I use the 1x10. I personally didn't feel that the 1/8th would make that much difference. It didn't. The frames, as you've seen, don't go all the way to the bottom of the box. So that 1/8th meant nothing to me.

That was just my choice. You can do as you please. Jerrymac gave a good use for that ripped off part too.

Beth

[Robo]

I personally didn't feel that the 1/8th would make that much difference. It didn't.

Compared to??  - Just kidding

The frames, as you've seen, don't go all the way to the bottom of the box. So that 1/8th meant nothing to me.

It does change the bee space,  but like everything else in beekeeping, there are multiple opinions on beespace.  But decreasing it by the 1/8" is probably the safest of the changes.  Making it larger would allow for brace comb,  and the 1/8" reduction doesn't make it small enough for them to want to propolize it.

I have had some equipment that had all beespace on top and others that have the more standard way of splitting it between top and bottom.

I tend to agree with Beth on this, it is not that big of a deal,  unless you want by the book perfection.

[Anonymous]

:) I rip the 1"x12" and use the small part to make the outer cover rim. and thing else left is used to make the frame for the inter cover and the rails the hive bodies set on the SBB.
I cut the handles in the hive parts with a molding cutter i bought at Sears.

:D Al

[BigRog]

Well pricing lumber around here and it might be cheaper to just buy some boxes.
Can't see spending more to do more work.

[Anonymous]

Only savings here is on shipping which doubled the price of the boxes. Takes a whole day to drive to the nearest supplier too. I'd much rather be messing with the TBS than people on the roads.
:D  Al

[BigRog]

Dadant is just 110 miles rom me.
so it will cost me $30 for gas round trip.

[Jay]

Rog, do you have a saw mill nearby? I get all my wood from my local sawyer and plane it myself with my thickness planer. But the planing fee at the mill is still so cheap that if I didn't have a planer I would have them do it there. What you are saving is th retail markup of the lumber supplier which can be quite significant!  As I have mentioned in previous posts here, I bought enough wood to make four (4) deeps, and six (6) medium supers all for $36! Now this was rough cut from the mill and I had to plane and joint it (put one straight edge on it so it can be ripped to width on the table saw) but as I mentioned, the saw mill will be more than happy to do this for a nominal fee. It still works out less expensive than home cheapo or any of the other home suppliers, because of their retail markup! Good luck! :D

[lively Bee's]

Only savings here is on shipping which doubled the price of the boxes. Takes a whole day to drive to the nearest supplier too. I'd much rather be messing with the TBS than people on the roads.
:D  Al

Same here the shippping is the killer.  It runs the over all price a lot higher.