Hive Swarmed. What Is Best Now?

Started by Pink Cow, June 03, 2010, 03:25:22 PM

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Pink Cow

Had a large swarm leave our hive yesterday and I'm wondering what would be best for the hive now in its effort to recover. Specifically, should we remove the honey super they'd been working on? We went through the the lower of the two deeps and it was darn near empty with spotty brood, little pollen or honey, and not many bees other than those covering the brood. Should we remove the super so they concentrate their work on the deep? We don't care if we don't harvest, just want the best for the bees at this point. Also, we did not go through the top deep because it seemed to be holding nearly all the remaining bees and was much heavier than the lower box. Should we reverse and put the lean box above? Do we need to see what is there before deciding? I'm thinking if the brood is stronger there, the weaker box should go above. Correct?

Am I over-thinking as usual, and we should just leave them alone? Grateful for any suggestions and recommendations.

We did recover the swarm as they were kind enough to choose a tree just 75ft away, and a branch just 5ft high. My daughter and wife were lucky enough to see it all happen but I was stuck at work.

Finski

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catch the swarm in the evening. In the morning it continues its way.

Then get foundations and let it draw combs. It takes about one week.
You may use super if you do not have frames. Take care that they have enough room.


The second swarm leaves about 7 days later when queen cells emerge.
You may prevent them escaping

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Pink Cow

Finski, thank you for the reply. We did already recover the swarm with no problem. I am wondering if there is anything we can, or should do for the original hive.

iddee

Leave it be for 2 weeks. Then check for eggs. That is when you will decide what it needs. Do not disturb it again while the new queen is getting settled.
"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*

Finski

The swarm is so OK

The original hive has only one problem: it may make an after  swarm.

There are 10-15 queen cells. If you brake them, they do them more.

What I woud do,

* I  put a swarm on old site and more frames to be drawn.
So I make a second false swarm.

* Move the original hive 10 feet.

* Old bees fly to the swarm during 3 days, and the old hive is not able to make any swarm.
* A new queen emerges and kills the rest of  queens and queen cells. he colony  just try to keep
brood alive.


* When a new queen have mated and lays, it takes about 10 days after emerging.
* Now it is time to put hiveparts together that you get honey.
Leave the new queen into hive and kill the old queen or make a 3 frame nuc.

When you open the hive, you see in what stage the queen cells are.
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Finski


The age of queen cell

If bees have scraped the tip of queen cell thinner, the queen will emerge after 2-3 days.

If the tip of queen cell is thin and brown, kit may have a living queen which can fly.

If the tip of queen cell has a little hole, the quen is ready to swarm and it is piping.

There are younger queen cells too in the hive.

When the first swarm has gone, often new queens emerge and run out. They may be 10 or something.


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False swarm's basic idea is to stop swarming fewer.
it is a little bit laborous but results are good.



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