New Beekeeper w/ questions after 2nd Hive Inspection

[SarahM]

Hello all!

After a year or more of researching and learning about beekeeping, we finally got our first hive this spring. Talk about exciting! The package of bees arrived on April 30th, and we installed them the same day. And wow . . . what an incredible experience! Everything went very smoothly, and we attached the queen cage to one of the central frames, put on a top feeder with 1:1 sugar syrup and left the bees to do their work.

The days that followed we saw lots of pollen going in, especially in the mornings.

We did the first hive inspection on the 5th day after installing the bees, and the queen was released. We did not see the queen (she isn't marked), though we did see eggs in one of the frames so we knew she was doing her job.

Today, a week after the first inspection, we did a second inspection, and things are really changing in the hive! It was so amazing to see the colony developing inside with capped honey, pollen stores, capped brood, growing larvae and more eggs. It looks like the bees are covering about 5 frames and are working on drawing out the foundation on the 6th and 7th  frames (there were also eggs on the 6th frame.)

If I am remembering correctly, one and half to two frames had capped brood, there was some capped honey at the tops of two frames, and then some pollen stores as well. We looked for the queen on each frame, but still didn't see her which was disappointing.

Some photos were taken of two of the frames and I would really appreciate your all's thoughts on them . . .

Edited to add . . . as a new member, I just now realized that I can't post photos! But I e-mailed the links to the forum moderator so I think the photos should appear later? So I am sorry for the confusion and lack of photos right now!


A photo of one of the frames


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And a close-up of the above frame


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In the above photos, there are a few drone cells intermixed with the capped brood . . . is this normal? There are also some empty spots in the middle of the capped brood. I know having a lot of empty cells indicates a poor brood pattern, so how would this one rate? I would really appreciate any thoughts and insights anyone could share about this frame! My inexperienced eyes have so much to learn!

And here is another frame which had by far the most capped honey . . .


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What do you think?

I also had a question about moving frames in the hive . . . The bees were working the left side of the hive, but the right side had three frames with completely undrawn foundation. I took one of the undrawn frames and moved it over to the furthest side on the left moving the whole broodnest more in the center . . . should I or shouldn't I have done that? When we had the hive opened it seemed like the right thing to do, but now I'm not so sure!

And one last question, I know you're supposed to add a second hive body when the first one is 70%-80% filled . . . does that mean filled with capped brood and capped honey or do cells with uncapped brood and partially filled cells of nectar count as well?

I know this is a lot of questions, but any answers, tips or advice you all would like to share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much in advance!

[FRAMEshift]

I also had a question about moving frames in the hive . . . The bees were working the left side of the hive, but the right side had three frames with completely undrawn foundation. I took one of the undrawn frames and moved it over to the furthest side on the left moving the whole broodnest more in the center . . . should I or shouldn't I have done that? When we had the hive opened it seemed like the right thing to do, but now I'm not so sure!

You didn't hurt anything by moving the frames, but it was not necessary.  The bees will work it out to their satisfaction.

And one last question, I know you're supposed to add a second hive body when the first one is 70%-80% filled . . . does that mean filled with capped brood and capped honey or do cells with uncapped brood and partially filled cells of nectar count as well?

The 70-80% is just a rule of thumb.  None of this is written in stone.  But yes, everything counts so when you see 7 or 8 frames out of 10 drawn and covered in bees, it's time to add another box.

[tina]

as a new beekeeper with the same sort of questions i'm looking forward to seeing your photos and the expert feedback you'll get on this forum

[AllenF]

I think you are doing with with your bees.  Great pics there.

[Shanevrr]

a few open spots in brood is ok, mine is same way first 3 weeks.  And i also had drone cells which I hear is normal too.  looks like all is well in your hive compaired to mine which is going on its 4th week.  I already added second box.  I also have been moving empty frames from outside to inside but not between brood nest

[wd]

I've shuffled frames, also added a deep or a super at 7 frames,  its worked out.  depends on the hive mind, not every one I've have/had does exactly the same. Empty frames or partially drawn frames on the ends are common for me, I'd rather add a box then have them swarm. Nice pictures!

[SarahM]

Thank you all for the advice that you shared and also the encouragement. It was appreciated! And kind of a relief as well to hear some feedback and know I am on the right track so far.

So judging from the responses . . . it must be normal then to have some drone brood intermixed with worker brood?

Thanks again!

And thank you buzzbee for putting in the photos for me!

[FRAMEshift]

So judging from the responses . . . it must be normal then to have some drone brood intermixed with worker brood?

Yes it's normal to have some drone cells intermixed, especially since your colony is only 2 weeks old.  Over time the frames will get more organized.  The bees like to put a band of honey across the top, a narrow band of pollen under that and brood in the center under the pollen.  Drone cells are often in vertical strips along the left and right edges of the frame. 

Then later on, when many more frames are being drawn, the organization changes.  You will have entire frames of worker brood, entire frames of honey and entire frames of pollen.  But there is lots of variation so don't worry if your bees are not following this exact pattern.

[forrestcav]

your ladies look like they're doing great. You must have a good flow on. Good luck.

[sc-bee]

Looks like you are doing great. As said above the 70% is a rule of thumb. It is worse to add to late than a little to early. In particular in an already established hive.

Just an observation from your photo's. I am not sure whether there is a right or wrong but, when I wear a jacket for inspection, I put my fingers in the sleeve straps (actually i don't use them my arms are plenty big enough to hold everything in place) and place the gloves on the outside. That is if they are indeed long cuff bee gloves.

My experience is the bees tend to crawl up your hands alot more than down. I believe bees could get up the sleeves easier with the jacket sleeves on the outside. I do occasionally have one crawl down the top portion of my gloves but not often. Just a thought ;)  

Others are sure to weigh in on this if they beg to differ :-D

[SarahM]

Thank you FRAMEshift, forrestcav, and sc-bee, for the encouragement!


And thank you also, FRAMEshift, for explaining about the brood pattern. That's good to know. =) It will be interesting to observe how the brood pattern changes over the coming weeks and months.


I appreciate you sharing that about the gloves, sc-bee! Any advice to help me with this beekeeping venture I'm always glad to receive. =) The gloves I was wearing for this inspection are just my regular old leather work gloves so they don't have the cuffs, and thus why the sleeve and thumb band are over top of them. I do have some beekeeping gloves with cuffs, but the hand part is way too big for my small hands, and they made my first hive inspection rather difficult! It makes sense, though, about the bees crawling up the arm and getting between the glove and the sleeve . . . something I would really rather not have take place if I can avoid it. So I'm planning to get a pair of regular leather gloves and make cuffs for them which should help take care of that. Thanks again for sharing about the gloves and also the encouragement and advice regarding the bees!

[sc-bee]

Use the gloves you have and wear them the way you have been, just tape the cuff to the gloves ;) Leave a small tab on the tape for easy removal.

When I first started there was nothing prettier than a full frame of brood on new drawn comb. Also the many different colors of pollen are amazing.

Good Luck!

[sterling]

I have been using cleaning type gloves and have pretty good luck with them. They fit tight and I can feel what I'm doing with them. They are long enough that the elastic sleeve on my jacket will cover them. And the bees have do not sting me through. They do make your hands sweat but you can wash em.

[Shanevrr]

gloves...lol.

I got stung twice through gloves so I just quit wearing them

Check this out Sarah, compair to yours

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,32937.0.html

[CapnChkn]

Get some of the rubber gloves that fit, get some old socks and put your hand inside, adjust to your liking, take your sewing scissors (if you have them) and cut a hole at the tips of your fingers and thumb.  Work your hand with the gloves on through the holes.

I have a pair I ended up with for heavy work, they cost about 5 dollars down at the large building supply chain.  The inside is lined so I can slip my hands in there.  I can't really say about the Nitrile gloves, but I am thinking the bees can't "feel" skin under their feet, so they look elsewhere to sting.

[forrestcav]

would depend on the thickness of the nitrile. I have worn nice heavy gloves and thin ones, it depends on how cheap the hosp i'm snagging them from is.  ;)

[CapnChkn]

Joe, don't those gloves come in a puncture resistant form?

[SmokeEater2]

  I can't really say about the Nitrile gloves, but I am thinking the bees can't "feel" skin under their feet, so they look elsewhere to sting.

I think you're on to something there. I've been wearing tight fitting surgical gloves this year and not a single sting (so far) I always stuff a few extra in a pocket so if/when I tear one or get honey or something all over it I can change them out.

[SarahM]

Thanks everyone for all the helpful tips/advice regarding gloves!

Sc-bee . . . I've noticed already the many different colors of pollen, and I would agree, it is amazing.

And thanks, Shanevrr, for the link to your photos . . . it was neat to see those and to compare them with mine. Hope your hives do well for you!

[forrestcav]

yes they do come in a puncture resistant type. Usually they are black, i've seen them in the catalogs like Gall's. Ive worn some fairly heavy one that were a dark purple color. You have to look at the mil rating to know how thick they are.