Trying to help a buddy who captured a swarm

Started by FlexMedia.tv, June 30, 2016, 11:36:26 PM

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FlexMedia.tv

First of all, both of us just started raising bees. I bought 2 package bees. He just captured a swarm, which is pretty darn cool by the way! Anyway, he caught the swarm and went out and bought a starter kit. He using a frame feeder and after 2 weeks he looked at it and one frame was welded to the feeder and covered with bees and honey on both sides. NONE of the other frames had anything. He thinks they would do better. I have no clue. Is this normal?
Thanks,
Art
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PhilK

What 'starter kit' did he get? What size box, how many frames, foundation? Swarms are normally wax building machines so it sounds weird if they just built one frame out and filled it with honey (or stored syrup if they're using the frame feeder).

Has he seen the queen? Any eggs?

FlexMedia.tv

He said he couldn't see any eggs because there were too many on one frame. He has the regular size 10 frame box. I have the medium 8 frame. They ate all the sugar water. He also has a screen bottom and no mites. He put the whole ball of swarm in the box and he sees them come and go.
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sc-bee

Sounds like a bee space issue... The bees chose to build in the gap between the frame and feeder.
John 3:16

FlexMedia.tv

Eventually they will build from there, right? I told him to be patient because it had only been 2 weeks. He's going to look for eggs and larvae this week.
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KeyLargoBees

if the swarm had a young virgin in it it could take 10 days or more for her to get to laying...i have had several this year I dismissed as queenless only to have eggs miraculously appear 2 weeks later.

As far as building on only one frame....bees will only build what they can cover...so if it was a really small secondary or tertiary cast swarm with low numbers its possible they did just the one frame. for now and will be a slow build until the first brood hatches.....small swarms can be maddeningly slow to build up since its a numbers game and the queen and bees are limited to brood cycles and getting more population in order to create more population.
Jeff Wingate

Changes in Latitudes...Changes in Attitudes....are Florida Keys bees more laid back than the rest of the country...only time will tell!!!
[email protected] https://www.facebook.com/piratehatapiary

FlexMedia.tv

Jeff,
That makes sense. Easy enough for me to explain, at least until he decides to join the list. Just had another friend who lost his queen on one hive, has a laying worker, I think, and is now doing the newspaper over the super thing. If that were to happen to me I would be dead. At least he has a professional helping him.
Thanks,
Art
Check out my Blog!:

http://beekeeper.flexmedia.tv/

Retired State Trooper. Part time Beekeeper. If you ever see me run, Run!

KeyLargoBees

seriously....build a few swarm traps...Love these http://www.horizontalhive.com/how-to-build/swarm-trap-free-plans.shtml ....toss em up in the region of other keepers or feral trees and snag a swarm or two...not sure how "late" is too late up in Michigan but even if you catch a swarm and they end up not being strong enough to over winter you can always combine and keep the queen with the best genetics...its just a matter of a little more wodden ware in the form of traps and a NUC or two.

A second hive gives you so much more flexibility with what you can do from a resource perspective.
Jeff Wingate

Changes in Latitudes...Changes in Attitudes....are Florida Keys bees more laid back than the rest of the country...only time will tell!!!
[email protected] https://www.facebook.com/piratehatapiary

FlexMedia.tv

You know? That is interesting. Maybe I could pull that off. Heck, I'm WAY further with my two package hives than I ever thought I would get. I'm a little worried about what I would do if I got mites or small beetles. I haven't got that far in my self teaching books yet. *grin!* I'll have to think more on the traps. I'm afraid of heights so how does that play in???
Check out my Blog!:

http://beekeeper.flexmedia.tv/

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KeyLargoBees

optimal height is 10 feet... or so the research says ...but it all depends on the setup. Trap need to be visible but not in full sun all day and proximity to a known feral hive or managed hives during swarm season will up your chances....I am also a huge proponent of swarm commander lure (the spray bottle) but lemongrass oil works well too I hear.

Early in the year I climbed a ladder and juggled the trap and strap and after a month of that said screw it and I started leaning a 6'ladder up against the tree/pole and setting the trap on it for support while I put the rachet strap on it seems to work well. Lots of swarms caught and doing it from the ground means no juggling a box of bees down an extension ladder.
Jeff Wingate

Changes in Latitudes...Changes in Attitudes....are Florida Keys bees more laid back than the rest of the country...only time will tell!!!
[email protected] https://www.facebook.com/piratehatapiary

Caribou

Quote from: FlexMedia.tv on July 02, 2016, 01:42:58 PM
I'm afraid of heights so how does that play in???

I've been trying to find the article to no avail, sorry.  If memory serves it was called a Siberian something or other.  Anyway, it is a pole of an appropriate height with a tee or ell at the top.  A couple of pulley's were placed at the top and a cleat at a convenient height.  Run a line through the pulley, hoist your trap, and tie the line off at the cleat.

These were placed in or near the apiary to capture swarms.  A tripod with a single pulley would work as well and would be mobile.  No climbing, light weight, and mobile (or not as you wish).
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from poor judgement.

FlexMedia.tv

Something else I'll have to study up on.  :wink:
Check out my Blog!:

http://beekeeper.flexmedia.tv/

Retired State Trooper. Part time Beekeeper. If you ever see me run, Run!