crush and strain

danno · January 17, 2008, 12:34:55 PM

If you are using this method, are you using shallows or mediums. I would like to use this method however all I have are mediums

randydrivesabus · January 17, 2008, 12:45:01 PM

i used mediums. frame size is irrelevant.

twb · January 17, 2008, 08:53:52 PM

I was planning to post on this topic too and I see you got an answer, so mind if I barge in with a question or two? or four? or six? :-\ :)

How much less honey do you get(30% less?) compared to spinning it?

Don't the combs get soft in the heat when loaded with honey?

Can you cut foundation with a razer and straight edge for starter strips?

Doesn't the queen rush right up to lay eggs in the new comb as fast as they make it?

How many med. supers of crushed comb per 5 gal pail? One super per pail, then let it drain?

Michael Bush · January 17, 2008, 09:15:47 PM

>f you are using this method, are you using shallows or mediums.

I do it with all mediums. I used to do it with shallows.

>How much less honey do you get(30% less?) compared to spinning it?

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesharvest.htm#expenseofwax

I think it depends a lot on the kind of flow. On a hard flow when they are drawing wax anyway, I don't think it makes a significant difference. On an intermediate flow it can make a huge difference, not because of the expense of making wax, but because there's no where to put the nectar and it takes a while to get the wax making into high gear. If the flow is over by the time they get in gear, then they miss it.

>Don't the combs get soft in the heat when loaded with honey?

All comb is soft when first made. All comb gets softer in the the heat. All comb is heaver full of honey. What's the question? Does the comb collapse? Rarely.

>Can you cut foundation with a razer and straight edge for starter strips?

Sure. But a pizza cutter is easier.

>Doesn't the queen rush right up to lay eggs in the new comb as fast as they make it?

Only in the brood nest.

>How many med. supers of crushed comb per 5 gal pail? One super per pail, then let it drain?

You can fit several in one double bucket. Just keep an eye on what you have above and below so you don't overflow the bucket.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesharvest.htm#doublebucket

Jerrymac · January 17, 2008, 11:39:28 PM

Quote from: twb on January 17, 2008, 08:53:52 PM
How much less honey do you get(30% less?) compared to spinning it?

Since you let the bees clean up yhe honey from the wax you don't loose any. Either they use it or you get it the next time.

danno · January 18, 2008, 09:24:56 AM

1. do you use 10 frames or 9

2."Since you let the bees clean up the honey from the wax you don't loose any. Either they use it or you get it the next time." I understand placing the supers and frames back on for cleanup but how do they cleanup the wax.

3. with the foundation gone for winter storage is wax moth still a problem

4. As far as frame type I know I need groved top frame and use a wax tube fastener. I need to buy these yet. Is there a problem if I buy wedge tops and just nail the wedge in place. This frame seems more versitle and can be used for any foundation

randydrivesabus · January 18, 2008, 10:06:44 AM

1. i use 10. 9 should work too.
2. they clean the wax by removing the honey from it.
3. no
4. i've used wedge type frames for starter strips...i just left the wedge there. i like grooved top bars for starter strips better than wedge. you don't really need starter strips either.

Jerrymac · January 18, 2008, 12:39:13 PM

You can place the crushed honey covered wax in a pan or something that will fit inside a super. Place it inside the super on top of the hive and put a top on. Or as I ain't so picky I just sit the mess outside in a pan and let the bees go at it.

Michael Bush · January 18, 2008, 07:46:03 PM

>4. As far as frame type I know I need groved top frame and use a wax tube fastener. I need to buy these yet. Is there a problem if I buy wedge tops and just nail the wedge in place. This frame seems more versitle and can be used for any foundation

Actually any type will work. I just like the grooved the best as it's the most versatile. You can pop plastic in it, you can use the wax tube fastener to put wax foundation in it, or you can cut the top bar with a bevel before you put it together and have the option to use nothing. :)

If you have wedge frames, you can nail the plastic in or nail the starter strip in or nail the wax foundation in as well (if the cleat is already broken that's what I do). But you can also, if you haven't broken them out, wax the foundation in or pop the plastic in without breaking out the wedge.

twb · January 18, 2008, 07:51:43 PM

Thanks for letting me hijack your post there briefly, Danno. Are you convinced? Crush and strain sounds pretty good to me. I was looking at an $800 extractor so I guess if I miss out on a bit of honey with no foundation it is not such a big deal. I think I am going to try it for a season. We will see.

danno · January 31, 2008, 04:38:35 PM

Im convinced. Sounds easy for my future small scale bee operation and a cheaper way to get this whole thing started. My wife watches my pennies. Thanks to all

Understudy · January 31, 2008, 07:06:05 PM

Quote from: Michael Bush on January 17, 2008, 09:15:47 PM

All comb is soft when first made. All comb gets softer in the the heat. All comb is heaver full of honey. What's the question? Does the comb collapse? Rarely.

On this point I must disagree. Now the aspect in which the question is addressed may require some clarification but I will say this. Comb can and will collapse quite easily. Especially if it is newer comb.

Comb in hives if it has been there long enough to attach itself to all four borders of a frame is definitly stronger than if it has only attached to three. However all four sides in an extractor can be blown out quite easily. KTBH must spin at a wierd angle to avoid a blow out. A blow it is not quite the same as a collapse but your frustration when it happens won't care about the details. Even comb attached on all four sides can blow out not as likely and usually the motor settings are wrong if it does. Wire reinforcement can help but that doesn't always survive either.

Now if you do nothing does come collapse on it's own in a hive body? Not really.
However in feral hives I have seen plenty of comb collapse or break off for one reason or another. In some cases comb has succumb to to much load and it is almost always a new piece of comb. If it is an old piece I tend to suspect external forces such as wind,animal, or human involvement.

Human involment on a feral hive can lead to collapse comb without a doubt. We tend not to always be as delicate as possible. When I did the compost bin cut out it was recommended that I turn the whole thing over and cut it out that way. Had I done that all the comb would have collapsed on itself and killed most of the bees.

So I am not sure I would say rarely.

Sincerely,
Brendhan

NWIN Beekeeper · February 01, 2008, 11:20:02 AM

[3. with the foundation gone for winter storage is wax moth still a problem]

It can be if the frames are not entirely clean.
The groves and bottom bars (especially split ones) are a good spot to harbor wax worms.
Make sure to get them as clean as possible.

This is entirely a different situation if you store your combs in a cold (outdoors) location until spring.
This will freeze and kill both eggs and the worms.

I try not to give any extra advantage to wax worms - especially wintering them through to spring.

-Jeff