double screen split - when to seperate ?

[malabarchillin]

In a few weeks I will receive a queen and split my hive using the double screen method. I intend to split my current hive evenly (5 frames top and 5 frames bottom) and add extra frames of foundation on the outside frames of the top and bottom deeps. What are the signs to look for to know when I can move the new top hive to its new location ? I realize that I could do a walk away split, but want to use a double screen for extra warmth and in case the split fails I can reunite the colony.
Thanks
Mike

[Brian D. Bray]

It sounds as if you have your approach well thought out.  Good luck.

[malabarchillin]

Bump:

No answer to my question ?
Regards
Mike

[Brian D. Bray]

Bump:

No answer to my question ?
Regards
Mike

Move whenever you like--I thought the answer so obvious I ignored the question.

[JP]

In a few weeks I will receive a queen and split my hive using the double screen method. I intend to split my current hive evenly (5 frames top and 5 frames bottom) and add extra frames of foundation on the outside frames of the top and bottom deeps. What are the signs to look for to know when I can move the new top hive to its new location ? I realize that I could do a walk away split, but want to use a double screen for extra warmth and in case the split fails I can reunite the colony.
Thanks
Mike

You say you will be receiving a new queen in a few weeks and split your hive using the double screen method. In the double screen method you allow one of the hives to make their own queen, so actually what you're doing if I'm folowing you correctly, is splitting one hive to make two and requeening the queenless hive.

Also when you add extra frames with foundation to allow bees to draw out additional brood comb, you make room for them to do this inside the brood nest, you would move honey frames to the outside.

So, because you will be getting a new queen for your split, do the split when you get her. You will want to take brood frames from the hive you are splitting from and transfer them to the new hive, just keep track of where the queen is, so you don't transfer her as well.

If I confused you, its because you mentioned you are using the double screen method, but say you have ordered a new queen to do so?

....JP

[malabarchillin]

I am sorry that I was not clear in my question. My question is after I make the split and requeen how long should I wait to move the newly requeened hive to its new location (remove it from being stacked on original hive) ? 1 week.. 2 weeks etc ?
Are you saying that if you use the double screen method of stacking 2 hives that you should not introduce a foreign queen ? In my location  I need (want) to buy a mated queen (AHB).
Thanks again for your replies.
Mike

[JP]

Move it when you make the split. You will have some drifting, but use entrance reducers, and perhaps some grass to help the bees orient to the new hive location. Hope that's clear. Good luck.

....JP

[Cindi]

Mike, I liked your expression of "bump", that was pretty funnnnneeee.  See, you asked again to have your question answered, that is good.  Sometimes the questions get lost, in that the question may seem not to be a question, but a corroboration of a fact/question.  YOu got some good answers, that is good, yeah!!!  I was interested in hearing the responses and I am glad that your pursued it, good job!!!  Have an awesome and wonderful day, love life....Cindi

[malabarchillin]

I am always thankful for replies, but my question is not answered.
I guess no one uses the double screen method here. I am not talking about a walk away spit.

[JP]

I am always thankful for replies, but my question is not answered.
I guess no one uses the double screen method here. I am not talking about a walk away spit.

A double screen split is when you separate a hive using double screen and allowing the queenless hive to make a new one. You are not doing this method so what's the question?

....JP

[malabarchillin]

I am using this method but because of my location (AHB) I have to buy a mated queen. I can still take advantage of double screen method of shared heat and recombine if split fails.
They do not need to raise their own queen for this method. We are miscommunicating do not get angry

[JP]

I am using this method but because of my location (AHB) I have to buy a mated queen. I can still take advantage of double screen method of shared heat and recombine if split fails.
They do not need to raise their own queen for this method. We are miscommunicating do not get angry

Oh, I'm not getting angry. Just trying to understand your motives so I can be of some help.

....JP

[malabarchillin]

Sorry to beat a dead horse.

Here is a link to what I am calling a double screen split.

http://mikesfarm1.blogspot.com/2008/01/double-screen-board.html

If that is not the hardware for a double screen split please correct me.
I am new, but I do not think it matters if I let them raise their own queen or
because of African Honey bees in Florida I elect to buy a mated queen to place in the upper portion of the split. I also gain at least a month by buying a mated queen.
So my question is still :
How long do you usually leave the on the upper part of the split before they are large enough in numbers and/or stores before you remove them and place them in another part of the bee yard ?  Because each half of the split is small in numbers I wish to use the double screen method in case we get another cool snap before they have enough bees to keep themselves warm. The double screen method allows them to combine their heat output and if the split does not go well they will still smell like one hive and can be recombined easily.
Regards
Mike   

[UtahBees]

http://mikesfarm1.blogspot.com/2008/01/double-screen-board.html

Nice blog Mike. I like your hive stand. Keep up the good work.

Oh, I'm also jealous that you have 81 degree weather.

Regards,

Scott

[Brian D. Bray]

A double screen is usually used for running a 2 queen hive with 2 brood boxes per queen after a newspaper plus double screen combine.  If you are only using 1 box per queen the chances are that the bees will kill one of the queens because of the close proximity of each queen in relation to each other.  If you are getting a queen I'd recommend doing a normal split--better chance of queen survival.

[malabarchillin]

Scott,
Thanks for the nice words.

Brian,
Thanks for your reply. It is not the answer I had hoped for, but it is the reason that I kept trying to get a answer.

Regards
Mike

[rdy-b]

MALABARCHILLIN- If it where me I would wait for the queen(or queens ) to get established before moving -this is relavent to your enviormenal conditions at the time -pollen and nectar flow and so on -So to achive this I would let her come up with at leat two full deep frames of caped brood both sides -so this would aply to the botom box and the top box -if one of the boxes fails and you have to recombine-hopfuly it wont be the new queen that failed-when you take the screen out to move do it at night and you will be good to go what you are doing will work like a charm 8-) RDY-B

[JP]

I think I understand what you are trying to do, to make two hives but keep them stacked for warmth using the double screen. If this is what you are trying to achieve, when the weather warms to where they are flying I would suggest moving them then, really sorry if I came off harsh, if I did, I didn't realize I was. Good luck with your plan.

Sincerely, JP

[Michael Bush]

It's not how I normally do a split.  It sounds like a feasible method, but I have no actual experience to fall back on doing a split above a double screen with an introduced queen.

I'd follow the basic principles of a split:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beessplits.htm