a bunch of newbie questions

[marliah]

I have a bunch of questions and am hoping you all can help me find some answers.

I am picking up my first bees saturday. For now I just have one 10 frame hive and the beekeeping suit and smoker. The woman selling me the bees said she suggests having a whole second hive in order to winter bees over in Maine, and that I should get one in 3-4 weeks at most. And she said I would need that just to keep the one hive going?

Why would I need a second hive to winter bees? and if I do why do I need it so soon?

Should I buy supers now in case I need them? or will that be something I won't need until next year?

Should I expect to get any honey this year, being a first year?

What about beeswax? or royal jelly? how does one go about collecting that?

If I can only buy one book on beekeeping what should it be?

I thought I had some idea of how this all worked, but now faced with actually doing it I feel a wee bit unprepared! LOL. So any advice you would offer to a completely new beekeeper would be greatly appriciated! Initially I wanted to get into beekeeping for honey and beeswax production, but now I am seeing them more as pets too :)

[doak]

First steps in beekeeping is a good book to begin with.
Decide if you want to work with deep brood or medium brood boxes.
Some use the same size all the way through.
You should get at least two or three more boxes.

Some speaking terms.
What did she mean a second hive. another deep hive body with all 10 frames with foundation, I assume is what she meant.
You should have 2 deep hive bodies and maybe a medium super for wintering over where you are.
You should add the 2nd deep as soon as the first one has 7 or 8 frames full of bees, brood, honey&pollen.
You didn't mention a hive tool. You'll need 2, one to use and one to loose. :roll: :) ;)doak
hope this helps some

[Bob Delp]

I have a bunch of questions and am hoping you all can help me find some answers.

I am picking up my first bees saturday. For now I just have one 10 frame hive and the beekeeping suit and smoker. The woman selling me the bees said she suggests having a whole second hive in order to winter bees over in Maine, and that I should get one in 3-4 weeks at most. And she said I would need that just to keep the one hive going?

Why would I need a second hive to winter bees? and if I do why do I need it so soon?

They will need more room to expand their brood nest and to store honey. They are talking about "supers" with frames and foundation.

Should I buy supers now in case I need them? or will that be something I won't need until next year?

Get them soon....one Now and then plan on getting a couple more within a month...just in case.

Should I expect to get any honey this year, being a first year?

Depends on a *lot* of variables.  Don't plan on much "extra".

What about beeswax? or royal jelly? how does one go about collecting that?

You get the beeswax by melting down the comb after you've removed honey from it.  Royal Jelly..I  have no idea.

If I can only buy one book on beekeeping what should it be?

Try your library.  I have The Hive And The Honey Bee - Dadant & Sons.

I thought I had some idea of how this all worked, but now faced with actually doing it I feel a wee bit unprepared! LOL. So any advice you would offer to a completely new beekeeper would be greatly appriciated! Initially I wanted to get into beekeeping for honey and beeswax production, but now I am seeing them more as pets too :)

You are at the right place to find information!
Bob

[dlmarti]

I have a bunch of questions and am hoping you all can help me find some answers.

I am picking up my first bees saturday. For now I just have one 10 frame hive and the beekeeping suit and smoker. The woman selling me the bees said she suggests having a whole second hive in order to winter bees over in Maine, and that I should get one in 3-4 weeks at most. And she said I would need that just to keep the one hive going?

Why would I need a second hive to winter bees? and if I do why do I need it so soon?

You need to winter your bees in a hive that is at least two deep boxes tall.  She isn't talking about a second hive, just a second brood box.

Should I buy supers now in case I need them? or will that be something I won't need until next year?

In addition to the added deep box, I would purchase a couple of medium boxes also.

Should I expect to get any honey this year, being a first year?

Maybe, it really depends on your area, the weather, and the strength of your hive.

What about beeswax? or royal jelly? how does one go about collecting that?

I know nothing of royal jelly collecting.
As to beeswax I wouldn't expect much this year, if any at all.

If I can only buy one book on beekeeping what should it be?

Go the the local library and check out a couple.

I thought I had some idea of how this all worked, but now faced with actually doing it I feel a wee bit unprepared! LOL. So any advice you would offer to a completely new beekeeper would be greatly appriciated! Initially I wanted to get into beekeeping for honey and beeswax production, but now I am seeing them more as pets too :)

Your going to feel unprepared for a while, its a totally new experience.  Just have fun.

[Barbara]

Our original plan was to get one hive to start with.  But after attending our Beekeeping Short Course, where most everyone, including the beek we got our nucs from, recommended starting with two, we decided to go for it.  It hasn't seemed to be too much more work having two, but we have two people working with the bees. One thing I have found amazing is how different the hives are.  They are both very calm, but one is definately more active than the other, which isn't saying much.  The weather has been crappy here since we got our nucs, so I am really looking forward to some clear warm days so that they can spend some time flying.

[annette]

It is better to have one size that you can move around the hive and not worry about supers being different sizes.
I use all mediums to make up my hive. 3 mediums are equal to 2 full deep supers. This is how I overwinter them.

I also started with 2 deep supers for the brood nest and then saw the reason for not using them. Being able to interchange supers when needed.

I wanted to add some photos, but for some reason, I am not getting the option to post photos here today. OH, ok now I have the option.





Read more on using small supers, do a search here on this forum and see what other beekeepers are saying.

Start out right, and then you do not have to think about changing things later.

Annette

[poka-bee]

Read what everyone has to say.  I had no idea at the onset that you could get anything but the 10frm deeps like they sell in the packages.  After research went with 8frm meds, all interchangable & more managable for a decrepit old bat like me, getting more old & feeble every day!  I had to consider if I had to do everything by myself, not everyone has a big strong guy around every minute to help & I hate to wait if something needs to be done!  Hmmm my fantasy: a dual purpose bee & pond boy...(who also does windows,postholes & wood) heh heh heh!  No pool boy as I don't like to swim... :-D  Jody

[BMAC]

Well I think that about covers everything.

I would personally not expect any honey this first year.

If you want to buy a book, BeeKeeping for Dummies is a real nice all around book to have.

If you want to collect Royal Jelly and do not want to setup something for true RJ production then invest in a very very small spoon.  Go into every started queen cell you find and scoop out the larva and Royal Jelly.  Of course you can discard the larva less you want to walk on the wild side and eat it. :-D

[doak]

Sounds like me poka-bee
Try taking a deep full of honey off about 3 to 5 high. Ouch!
doak

[Barbara]

We also have all medium suppers, for the same reason.

[Michael Bush]

>The woman selling me the bees said she suggests having a whole second hive in order to winter bees over in Maine, and that I should get one in 3-4 weeks at most. And she said I would need that just to keep the one hive going?

Spare parts for emergencies are very necessary for many beekeeping problems.  Two hives is about a minimum.

>Why would I need a second hive to winter bees? and if I do why do I need it so soon?

You don't so much as it improves your odds of getting at least one through the winter.  But you might need the second hive to resolve possible queenlessness, laying workers, a struggling hive etc.

>Should I buy supers now in case I need them? or will that be something I won't need until next year?

I would always have at least one empty one available for all your hives.  Then you can order more when that one goes on.

>Should I expect to get any honey this year, being a first year?

Expect what you like.  Enjoy what you get.  There is no telling.

>What about beeswax? or royal jelly? how does one go about collecting that?

I used to collect a bit of royal jelly for queen rearing, but it's difficult to get any great amount.  Beeswax is the byproduct when you harvest honey.  If you do crush and strain (which I would if you only have one hive) you will have all the beeswax left over.

>If I can only buy one book on beekeeping what should it be?

Only one?  I'd get ABC and XYZ of Beeculture.  But I'd buy a hundred or so books on beekeeping...

[ScottT]

http://www.mygarden.me.uk/beekeeping_for_all.pdf
I found this book listed on another forum. This so far has been my favorite book because it was free.
I as well have a few questions though. (not trying to Hijack but there are many questions that need answering.)

1. weed control? how do you cut the grass/weed wip around the hives without getting nailed? Ortho?

2. I plan to build a TBH. Is rough sawn ceder ok for the sides and end caps? My local lumber yard has 1x12 Rough sawn ceder. I know its a strong smelling wood and was a bit concerned about throwing the hive scent off. I don't like the idea of pine due to its attractiveness to termites.

3. Is it ok to use treated 4x4 posts for legs?

4. How do I keep skunks away? Skunks like bees and my dogs like skunks. Not a good relationship to promote.

5. Best way to keep rats/mice out. (hopefully something that kills them.)

[Keith13]

answers I have found so far

#1 you don't they sting, you can spray glysophate some people do some don't
#3 I do
#4 elevate the hive so that the skunks stomach is vunerable to stings 12" 18"
#5 don't know about killing them but elevation should work to keep them out or buy a cat I guess

[2-Wheeler]

It is better to have one size that you can move around the hive and not worry about supers being different sizes.
I use all mediums to make up my hive. 3 mediums are equal to 2 full deep supers. This is how I overwinter them.

I also started with 2 deep supers for the brood nest and then saw the reason for not using them. Being able to interchange supers when needed.

(snip)

Read more on using small supers, do a search here on this forum and see what other beekeepers are saying.

Start out right, and then you do not have to think about changing things later.

Annette

Those are mighty nice looking hives Annette. It looks like you are also one of those (like me) who paints the metal portion of the top cover. I too am using medium supers for brood chambers, they work well for me. It also looks like you also have the same insulated/ventilated inner cover that I use.

One caution that I read about using the supers that seems to make sense: Be sure to mark the frames you use for the brood chamber so you don't end up using them later for honey - that is if you ever plan to use any kind of medication.

[annette]

[/quote]Those are mighty nice looking hives Annette. It looks like you are also one of those (like me) who paints the metal portion of the top cover. I too am using medium supers for brood chambers, they work well for me. It also looks like you also have the same insulated/ventilated inner cover that I use.

One caution that I read about using the supers that seems to make sense: Be sure to mark the frames you use for the brood chamber so you don't end up using them later for honey - that is if you ever plan to use any kind of medication.
[/quote]

Those top covers are from Honey Run Apiaries and I really like them, as no more bearding in the summer.
I have not marked any frames and I admit I am not worried about them being used for honey. I know the bees will clean them out really good before placing honey in them. Also, I do not use any medication so perhaps it does not matter. I have just moved frames around whereever I need to and haven't given it much thought where the frames have been. the only thing I try to do is keep most of the brood frames for the brood, as I have been trying to regress them and do not want any large cells to end up in the brood area.

Thanks for the response.
Take care
Annette

[utahbeekeeper]

I suppose I am "stuck in the 60's"   but I am very happy with deep boxes down below and medium supers on top.  Perhaps it is just that everything looks right and familiar with that traditional setup.  I am sure you others are right that the bees don't care about setting up housekeeping in 3 mediums or 2 deeps.

It snowed again today here in the high desert.  2 days ago it was 79 degrees.  The bees are wondering whats up with that!! 

[Michael Bush]

>1. weed control? how do you cut the grass/weed wip around the hives without getting nailed? Ortho?

I don't:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#topentrance

>2. I plan to build a TBH. Is rough sawn ceder ok for the sides and end caps? My local lumber yard has 1x12 Rough sawn ceder. I know its a strong smelling wood and was a bit concerned about throwing the hive scent off.

The bees won't mind a bit.

>I don't like the idea of pine due to its attractiveness to termites.

Pine is much cheaper, but the cedar will work fine.

>3. Is it ok to use treated 4x4 posts for legs?

As long as you don't put treated wood in the hive (where the bees would walk on it) it's ok.  I would just put a four by four on the ground and set the hive on that and work it from a stool.

>4. How do I keep skunks away? Skunks like bees and my dogs like skunks. Not a good relationship to promote.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#topentrance
http://www.bushfarms.com/beespests.htm#skunks

>5. Best way to keep rats/mice out. (hopefully something that kills them.)
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#topentrance
http://www.bushfarms.com/beespests.htm#mice

[ScottT]

Dude, Does your website ever end? It's 2am now I've been reading it since about 11pm and that doesn't include yesterday and I'm still not finished. Reading about Wax Dipping now.
I would just like to say thank you for all the hard work you've done for me.
I'll try to make a go of it thats worthy of your efforts.
  Hopefully things will work out and I'll be able to setup a hive soon. I'm pretty amped about it.
And thanks to you all. If I do fail for some reason (like finding out I'm allergic or the like) I am definitely smarter about the operation of a hive.

Bee Keeping is so close to auto factory operations that its kind of scary. I've been thinking about this a lot lately.
The correlation seems apt.

[qa33010]

   The hives in are backyard are mowed around and no problems except when the grass is sprayed up under the hives.  The hives outside of town are not mowed. 

Cat takes care of rodents.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/mydarlingheathens/Robbing%20and%20Others/330592d1.jpg

All hives are raised off the ground.  Had a skunk in town try for a hive and they boiled out and were all over it.  No problems since.

I paint anything that touches the ground.  Otherwise I use cinder blocks.

[Michael Bush]

>Dude, Does your website ever end?

I keep adding to it.  So, no, it probably doesn't. :)