Feeding Bees in April

[Greg watkevich]

I am getting my supplies together for my delivery of spring bees(2 packages).  I was wondering how much feed(sugar water) will be required for the bees.  My location is Massachusetts.   I know that they will need to be fed until we have blooms in the area. I just want an idea of how much they'll need and if its better to buy or make my own?

[Two Bees]

When I set up my two packages in April 2008, they consumed taking a gallon of 1:1 syrup every 3 days and continued to do so through June.  They built out the foundation in two deeps and built up numbers in a hurry.  I probably fed too much syrup but I split both colonies last year and they continue to do well based upon an inspection that I performed on Thursday.  We currently have snow and ice!

With 5 pounds of sugar to a gallon, I would estimate about 30-35 pounds of sugar per hive to get them established.  But each hive is different and "your actual mileage may vary."

[cam]

check out:
http://chrisbacherconsulting.com/PinkPages/2002_Jan_-_Reversing_Brood_Chambers.html#Part2

read the part about feeding. I totally agree with him. Fed my 3 packages all summer. Sometimes, when the flow was on they took very little, other times they took a lot. I also kept a supplement on them all summer. One hive built out 28 frames of brood!

[Greg watkevich]

Thanks for the information and the link to feeding bees. 
Greg Watkevich

[Greg watkevich]

Camero7, Is this your first year beekeeping?  Did your bees make it through last winter? or are you still anticipating opening the hive to find out if they made it through the winter?
Greg Watkevich

[annette]

I know I am not in Massachusetts, but out here whenever I start a package hive, I get the bees installed in April and feed them the 1:1 for about 1 month. After that they are on there own because there is enough out there for foraging. It has always worked out.

I don't see why you have to keep feeding them all summer. Once they are bringing in stuff, you usually stop the feeding.

Are things blooming so late out there???

[garys520]

I live in Connecticut and I kept feeding until both deeps and one super were drawn out, then the bees did the rest.  I love reading George's "pink pages" but he was from Maryland and they have a completely different nectar flow than New England.  Whatever you decide to do, keep records so you can adjust the following year if things don't work out your first season.

[cam]

Back into beekeeping - haven't done it since the '70's in Maine - first year with 3 hives, all from packages. One Carnolian and 2 Russian F1's. I don't treat and use only HBH in my syrup. The carni didn't make it. Probably mites. It was the strongest hive brood wise. The Russians are still kicking. I opened the hives a couple of times during warmer, sunny days this winter so far. Mainly to see how the bees are moving - cluster wise - on my TBH's and my Long hive.

George writes, and I agree, that new packages will eat at night, during bad weather, and don't have enough stores to handle bad weather. In any case, it worked for me. I have a couple new packages coming 4/1. I'll do the same with them. a couple extra $ for sugar is cheap insurance.

[Greg watkevich]

Again, Thanks for the advice. I just find it hard to believe that bees in Massachusetts can make it through our wiinters.  We can have consecutive weeks where the highs only reach 20 degrees with nightly lows at 0 or below several times during a winter.  I'd like to hear from other Beek's in MA or New England about their colony survival rates.
Greg Watkevich

[contactme_11]

It's usually not the temps in this area that kill bees. In winter it is usually either too much moisture in the hive or starving once the temps rise a little and the brood raising starts. Both of these problems can be easily remedied. For me, this year I started winter with 5 hives and as of 2 days ago I still have 5 live hives. Last year I lost 1.

[Greg watkevich]

I'd be curious to know what you do to your hives to help insure that condensation isn't an issue? 

[cam]

I use top entrances on all my hives and have 1" Styrofoam insulation on top of the hive - over the cover - to keep condensation off the cluster.

[John Schwartz]

Carmero7 -- any pics of top entrance/insulation would be fabulous.

[contactme_11]

All my hives have small top entrances. A few of them have all-season vented style inner covers which I fill with a few inches of wood shavings in the winter.

[cam]

I'll try to get some photos as soon as it warms up enough to melt the snow on them:-)

"Again, Thanks for the advice. I just find it hard to believe that bees in Massachusetts can make it through our wiinters.  We can have consecutive weeks where the highs only reach 20 degrees with nightly lows at 0 or below several times during a winter.  I'd like to hear from other Beek's in MA or New England about their colony survival rates."

When I was working for a migratory beek back in the '70's we were in central Maine. Got to -50° a couple of times. Bees survived. However, there were no mites and no nosema, at least I don't remember any concerns about it.

[garys520]

It's my third year in Connecticut with bees and I haven't lost a hive in the winter.  I've used the advice of the forum members to customize what works for me in the Northeast. 
1. I slightly tip the hives forward.
2. I use a spacer (paint stirrer) between the top of the deep and the inner cover for top ventilation.  (never seen any moisture in my hives)
3. I use either dry sugar or fondant for emergency food and moisture control.
4. Entrance reducer set to medium opening.
5. SBB on top of solid bottom board completely closed.
6. Treated with ApiGuard in the fall.
7. Treated for Nosema in the fall.
8. Wrapped my hives with Bee Cozys and lean plywood against the hives to break the wind from the north. 

All we need now is the temp to get up to 45 or 50 so the girls can get out and do their business, it's been 2 weeks.
Thanks to all of the veteran beeks for their help.  I always reading and learning.