Inner Cover

Started by rail, May 02, 2011, 01:09:11 PM

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rail

Not happy with the quality of the "inner cover" purchased; warped, inner board made from several pieces and gapping, does not sit flush around hive bodies! Maybe I expect to much? :?

Recommendations:

Brushy Mtn. - plywood inner board, pine frame
Dadant - masonite inner board
Better Bee - construction?

or someone else?

Charles
Sirach

VolunteerK9

Or....

Migratory tops and no inner covers

sterling

Quote from: VolunteerK9 on May 02, 2011, 01:15:51 PM
Or....

Migratory tops and no inner covers
What do you make the migratory covers out of/ wood type, ect

Kathyp

i use migratory tops with inner covers.  i paint the inner covers.  they will get damp and they will warp.  some are made from pressboard like stuff and i'd avoid them.  i do have a few that were in a bunch of used stuff that i bought, but i immediately painted them with a latex paint and they have been fine.  i do not paint the inside of anything else.  not the hive bodies, or the cover.

and yes, you  might be expecting to much.  wood expands and contracts and warps.  you will have some gaps.  the bees will probably use them as alternative entrances as time goes by   :-D
The people the people are the rightful masters of both congresses and courts not to overthrow the Constitution, but to overthrow the men who pervert it.

Abraham  Lincoln
Speech in Kansas, December 1859

AliciaH

For what it's worth, I've been happy with the masonite inner covers from Dadant.  They come with a wood rim, which I paint, and I haven't had any warping issues with them.

However, they are not good if you feed with an inverted far over the opening.  The masonite will bend under the weight.

forrestcav

Walter Kelly sells plastic inner covers. I'm gonna make my own.
Just a beek trying to get ready for winter.

Kathyp

QuoteFor what it's worth, I've been happy with the masonite inner covers from Dadant.

they are good.

as for the warping with a jar on top, they all will do that.  the solution is to put a couple of pieces of wood under the cover on either side of the hole.  that way the weight is supported and the hole is not obstructed.
The people the people are the rightful masters of both congresses and courts not to overthrow the Constitution, but to overthrow the men who pervert it.

Abraham  Lincoln
Speech in Kansas, December 1859

AliciaH


Michael Bush

My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm en espanol: bushfarms.com/es_bees.htm  auf deutsche: bushfarms.com/de_bees.htm  em portugues:  bushfarms.com/pt_bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
-------------------
"Everything works if you let it."--James "Big Boy" Medlin

rail

Thanks everyone for the advice, it's nice to know how different set-ups work.

Charles
Sirach

VolunteerK9

Quote from: sterling on May 02, 2011, 01:41:56 PM

What do you make the migratory covers out of/ wood type, ect

I use 3/4 ply for mine. At first I didnt know if I was going to like them or not, but so far no complaints and they are far easier and quicker to make than telescoping tops.

sterling

Quote from: VolunteerK9 on May 03, 2011, 12:38:29 PM
Quote from: sterling on May 02, 2011, 01:41:56 PM

What do you make the migratory covers out of/ wood type, ect

I use 3/4 ply for mine. At first I didnt know if I was going to like them or not, but so far no complaints and they are far easier and quicker to make than telescoping tops.
Do you use treated plywood or perserve or paint? And do you think they are as good in the winter since there is no dead air space above the cluster? I'm considering going to them also.

VolunteerK9

I have painted, treated plywood-its what I had at the time.

There are plenty of arguments about not using treated but so far I havent noticed anything detrimental going on.