Thoughts on open feeding?

Started by jaseemtp, May 04, 2011, 05:23:06 PM

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jaseemtp

So I was looking at doing some open feeding of my bees.  It has got to the point where it would just be alot easier for me to make one batch of 1:1 syrup and set it out for the bees.  Most of my hives are small and I am lookiing having the feed 200 feet from the hives.  Is this reasonable?  Would this induce a robbing scenaro?  I have allowed them to rob out old comb from cutouts in the past and it seemed to be ok.
Jason
"It's better to die upon your feet than to live upon your knees!" Zapata

Kathyp

that should be fine unless you have yellowjackets or other pests that will fight at the feeder for it.  don't do it in the fall!!  you will have a mess of stinging critters by then.
The people the people are the rightful masters of both congresses and courts not to overthrow the Constitution, but to overthrow the men who pervert it.

Abraham  Lincoln
Speech in Kansas, December 1859

BjornBee

The first day you will have some confusion, fighting, etc. But once the bees home in on the location, everything works very well.

As for yellowjackets, etc., you may see some early morning as they are out before the bees become active. Once the honey bees start flying, the yellowjackets get pushed aside and they are kept from feeding.

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hardwood

If you make it a habit to put a feeding station in one spot you will eventually have habitual visitors other than your bees. Every now and then is not a problem, but constant feeding trying to get them to build or store for winter may be a problem. I'm sure I've raised a few yellow jacket colonies by open feeding.

Scott
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jaseemtp

I ask because I have alot of new hives that are captured swarms / removals and do not want to be messing aournd in the hive alot to keep feeding inside.  I currenlty have 5 hives that are less than two weeks old and since this is my first year beekeeping I do not have drawn foundation for them to get rocking on.  I was thinking if I did some open feeding I would not be in the hives causing trouble and could possible be easier on me and the bees.
Thanks for the feedback y'all
"It's better to die upon your feet than to live upon your knees!" Zapata

hankdog1

being in TX you might be able to get by with it for your spring feeding in Jan. by open feeding.  remember when spring feeding in Jan. you'll need pollen sub out too. 
Take me to the land of milk and honey!!!

Finski

Quote from: jaseemtp on May 04, 2011, 05:23:06 PM
So I was looking at doing some open feeding of my bees.  It has got to the point where it would just be alot easier for me to make one batch of 1:1 syrup and set it out for the bees.  Most of my hives are small and I am lookiing having the feed 200 feet from the hives.  Is this reasonable?  Would this induce a robbing scenaro?  I have allowed them to rob out old comb from cutouts in the past and it seemed to be ok.
Jason

do you have summer in Texas? Why you feed bees?
Forecast tells that day temp is 30C.
.
Language barrier NOT included

Finski

Quote from: hankdog1 on May 05, 2011, 09:08:54 AM
being in TX you might be able to get by with it for your spring feeding in Jan. by open feeding.  remember when spring feeding in Jan. you'll need pollen sub out too. 

you mean that winter feeding in December, and spring feedin in January.
.
Language barrier NOT included

hankdog1

actually they probably have the weather to not even stop open feeding except for some portions of the state where they see a little snow fall
Take me to the land of milk and honey!!!

jaseemtp

So the open feeding did not work like I had wished. What about using plywood for a lid the cut a hole maybe 4 inches round and placing a three or five gallon bucket over it with 1:1 and some small holes for the bees to feed? I would put screen or +8 hardware cloth on the top to keep the bees inside when changing the feeders. Wouldnt this work just like the jars and I would not bee in their hives as much. I feel I need to keep feeding because there is not much comb drawn out since I have only foundation and foundationless frames for them

Ps. we do get some snow fall, this winter was pretty cold for us. It is normally more hot than cold here though.  It will easily get past 100f mosts days in the summer and our "winter" is pretty short with very few days below 32f.
"It's better to die upon your feet than to live upon your knees!" Zapata

AliciaH

Jason, what were you using and what didn't work out?

Kathyp

i'd also like to know why the open feeding did not work.  did they not find the syrup?  sometimes it takes them a couple of days if it's away from them. it also helps to put it in line with were they seem to be heading.

perhaps you have things blooming?  they will ignore the syrup for the real stuff.

to answer your questions, yes that should work.  make sure the holes are small and the jars are filled to the top.  the screen needs to be tight so that it is in contact with the lid. you don't really need the screen, but it does make the jar switching faster.
The people the people are the rightful masters of both congresses and courts not to overthrow the Constitution, but to overthrow the men who pervert it.

Abraham  Lincoln
Speech in Kansas, December 1859

joebrown

I have tried open feeding and the bee do well with it, but there is no way to tell which hives are getting the syrup and which hives are not. In the spring I like to place old supers on buckets  about 20 feet in front of my hives and pour old honey all over the frames, super, and buckets. I will also place jars of sugar syrup on top of all the frames. They typically swarm the setup. But, like I said it cannot be monitored. At least when I place jars in my entrance feeders I can see which hives are taking a quart a day or only 1/3 of a quart a day!

hankdog1

those bottom board feeders are a pain if for nothing else but the fact of how you have to watch them like a hawk to make sure they don't go dry.  a gallon feeder bucket or jar on top of the hive is best or you can open feed like is being discussed.
Take me to the land of milk and honey!!!

jaseemtp

I was not happy with open feeding.  I used a three gallon chicken waterer*  It was crazy all those bees there feeding and fighting, the fighting is what bothers me.  I attempted it twice and both times there was a cup each of dead bees.  I even put stones in the thing to keep them from drowning and there was so much pushing and shoving that they stones were tossed out and lay on the ground.  I have to say if you want to feed alot of bees quickly that is the way to do it.  I just dont like that fact that so many bees died
"It's better to die upon your feet than to live upon your knees!" Zapata

Finski

.
That is my experiences too. It will became a real riot.

If I use rapid feeding 1-2 kg sugar, I pour syrup direct into combs.
.
Language barrier NOT included

CapnChkn



This holds about a quart and a half.  Jar fits under a shallow.  I don't know if you can find one, I got 4 Lbs. of Peanut butter with it.  I took a 1/16 inch drill bit and put about 33 holes in it; 8 radiating spokes on a wheel.
"Thinking is like sin, them that doesn't is scairt of it, and them that does gets to liking it so much they can't quit!"  -Josh Billings.

joebrown

Quote from: hankdog1 on May 06, 2011, 10:25:39 PM
those bottom board feeders are a pain if for nothing else but the fact of how you have to watch them like a hawk to make sure they don't go dry.  a gallon feeder bucket or jar on top of the hive is best or you can open feed like is being discussed.

By bottom board feeder do you mean an entrance feeder? I like the entrance feeder because I do not have to open a hive and disturb the bees to change it out. Also, like I stated earlier, you can see how much syrup is being taken in, which can be very informative. I have tried the pail feeders from brushy mountain but the hole is so small that very little bees can feed at one time and I think the frame feeders are a joke. They hold little feed and you have to disturb the bees to much. Entrance feeders are inexpensive, require less equipment, and are less disruptive in my opinion.

jaseemtp

CapnChkn thats pretty much what im looking at doing, except I was wanting to place it on top of the hives with the hole in the roof.  I am not sure how well it would work but with my nucs I do what John Pluta does and I drilled a 1 1/4 inch hole and a soda bottle fits there just perfect.  I will be moving some bees to an out yard to help a buddy pollinate his 6 acre garden and figured they may need the syrup because the garden is mainly squash and melons.
Jason
"It's better to die upon your feet than to live upon your knees!" Zapata

wd

Around here I see many two deep lang hives with a plywood top, a whole cut in the center and a square gallon paint thinner can for the feeder. the whole is covered by a piece of whatever that pivots on one screw on top and hardware cloth below. Open feeding is done in some places too. The wind can knock them off when when not full. Top cover, gallon baggies?