How to narrow my frames

Started by kwonders, May 11, 2011, 03:06:01 PM

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kwonders

I'm sure this has been discussed many times, I searched the topic but could not find the information I am looking for. I am so new to beekeeping that I do not even have my equipment yet. I plan on a spring 2012 start. I am actively researching the system I plan to use. I would like to among other things, use narrow frames, i.e. 11 frames in a 8-frame medium super as my brood box. If I understand it correctly a standard frame is 1 3/8" wide and to narrow it to 1 1/4" wide all I need to be prepared to do is plane down the end frame pieces by 1/16" on each side prior to assembly. Then assemble as normal and I should then be able to get 11 frames in an 8-frame medium super. Is this the way it is done?

iddee

If you remove 1/8 inch from each of 8 frames, you gain 1 inch. How are you going to put 3 frames, each 1 1/4 inch, in that 1 inch space?
"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*

VolunteerK9

#2
I think what you read was talking about putting 11 frames in a 10 frame box.

kwonders

Yes, I misspoke, I  would need to use a ten frame medium super to do this. Would it then be a viable plan?

VolunteerK9

yeah like Iddee said. Then you can get 11 frames in a 10 frame hive body.

kwonders

is it possible to get 9 frames in an 8 frame medium without making the frames too thin. By my math that means removing 3/16th per frame for a final width of 1/16th less than 1 1/4". Is that too thin to allow sufficient bee space?

Michael Bush

>11 frames in a 8-frame medium super as my brood box.

11 in a 10 frame or 9 in an eight frame...

> If I understand it correctly a standard frame is 1 3/8" wide

Yes.

> and to narrow it to 1 1/4" wide all I need to be prepared to do is plane down the end frame pieces by 1/16" on each side prior to assembly.

It's easier AFTER assembly as long as you don't put any nails in the way.  That way you can hold the frame (easier than just holding an end bar).

> Then assemble as normal and I should then be able to get 11 frames in an 8-frame medium super. Is this the way it is done?

Basically.

http://bushfarms.com/beesframewidth.htm
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm en espanol: bushfarms.com/es_bees.htm  auf deutsche: bushfarms.com/de_bees.htm  em portugues:  bushfarms.com/pt_bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
-------------------
"Everything works if you let it."--James "Big Boy" Medlin

kwonders

thanks so much to you folks for the help.
Just to clarify in my mind, you would not want to narrow the frames in honey supers, they need to remain at the standard 1 3/8" width, correct or incorrect? If correct that would mean that the brood frames and the honey super frames would not be as interchangeable.

Eshu

The way I shave down 1/16" on either side is by lowering a peice of wood down onto the table saw and attaching it to the regular fence so thet the blade sticks out 1/16" from the wood fence.

I do it on unassmbled frame pieces so that the top bar is also shaved down.  I stack 2-3 end bars at once, but do top bars individually.

kwonders

Eshu, thanks that helps. But again for my clarification, (remember I am the newest of nubies);

So you also shave 1/16 from either side of the top bar as well. I did not think that needed to be done, but since I do not have any frames yet, I don't have one in front of me to look at. I have been looking at the pictures of the frame I want to use on Brushy web site (6-1/4 Frame Wedge Top/Divided Bottom, i plan to go foundation-less) trying to imagine how I would shave them down. I couldn't tell from the pictures if the top bar would need to be shaved as well or not.

Do you also narrow your honey super frames? My understanding is that the bees need more space to draw out the honey super frames, so you wouldn't want to narrow them. And if you don't narrow them does this cause you to have to keep one set of standard width frames for the honey supers and another set of "narrowed" frames for the brood boxes.

Michael Bush

>Just to clarify in my mind, you would not want to narrow the frames in honey supers, they need to remain at the standard 1 3/8" width, correct or incorrect? If correct that would mean that the brood frames and the honey super frames would not be as interchangeable.

Which is why it's probably a nice idea to do them all.  But I never get around to it.   They are interchangable enough.

>So you also shave 1/16 from either side of the top bar as well. I did not think that needed to be done, but since I do not have any frames yet, I don't have one in front of me to look at.

While it's nice, it's not necessary.

>Do you also narrow your honey super frames?

I haven't.

> My understanding is that the bees need more space to draw out the honey super frames, so you wouldn't want to narrow them. And if you don't narrow them does this cause you to have to keep one set of standard width frames for the honey supers and another set of "narrowed" frames for the brood boxes.

I narrow them the same if I get around to it.  I interchange them when I don't get around to it.
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm en espanol: bushfarms.com/es_bees.htm  auf deutsche: bushfarms.com/de_bees.htm  em portugues:  bushfarms.com/pt_bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
-------------------
"Everything works if you let it."--James "Big Boy" Medlin

kwonders

I think I got it now, thanks so much, I really appreciate all who took the time to help answer my questions