Building hive bodies

ApisM · June 25, 2011, 11:04:07 AM

Hello,

Does anyone have plans or pictures for building hive bodies? I have a table saw now, but nothing else. Is there other joints I can construct with a table saw? when I am cutting joints the cut is larger on one side of the board than the other, due to the diameter of the blade. Thus cutting joints is impossible. It appears that I need a band saw or router to make joints....however I don't own one.

Any pics, links, or ideas to construct a hive body would be appreciated.

Thanks!

vermmy35 · June 25, 2011, 12:55:28 PM

here you go I make these and instead of using a router I just cut 6 inch blocks from the scrap wood. The plans are free from here http://stonehavenlife.com/plans-beehive-honey-super/ . If I can make these without cutting off a finger anyone can do it :-D

D Semple · June 25, 2011, 01:12:03 PM

Quote from: ApisM on June 25, 2011, 11:04:07 AM
Hello,

Does anyone have plans or pictures for building hive bodies? I have a table saw now, but nothing else. Is there other joints I can construct with a table saw? when I am cutting joints the cut is larger on one side of the board than the other, due to the diameter of the blade. Thus cutting joints is impossible. It appears that I need a band saw or router to make joints....however I don't own one.

Any pics, links, or ideas to construct a hive body would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Re: when I am cutting joints the cut is larger on one side of the board than the other, due to the diameter of the blade.

I don't get what you mean? :? Dado blades are use to make the finger joints or rabbit cuts with your tablesaw.

Do a search on you Youtube for cutting finger joints.

A lot of joinery goes bad because of improperly tuned saw and guides. Take time to tune all your equipment properly.

Don

AllenF · June 25, 2011, 06:20:57 PM

http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/

ApisM · June 25, 2011, 06:27:33 PM

Thanks. Those are great plans. In regards to the Dado Blades, I don't have any. All I have is the 10" blade.

Danger Brown · June 25, 2011, 07:24:33 PM

Regarding the uneven cut due to the diameter of the blade.
I don't understand what you mean either.
Pictures of the situation would be nice.
I wonder if your fence is crooked? It should be parallel to the blade.

ApisM · June 25, 2011, 07:41:45 PM

I guess I didn't explain it good enough.

The cut is perfectly straight. However, if you have a 5 ft length of board and you cut 1 foot into the board, then a cut of 1 ft is expressed on the top surface of the board and a cut of 1 ft 4" is expressed on the bottom of the same board. Thus, the round blade cuts deeper into the board on the bottom than on the top. Is that clear now?

yockey5 · June 25, 2011, 08:09:48 PM

Quote from: ApisM on June 25, 2011, 07:41:45 PM
I guess I didn't explain it good enough.

The cut is perfectly straight. However, if you have a 5 ft length of board and you cut 1 foot into the board, then a cut of 1 ft is expressed on the top surface of the board and a cut of 1 ft 4" is expressed on the bottom of the same board. Thus, the round blade cuts deeper into the board on the bottom than on the top. Is that clear now?

_______________________________________________________

Cut your boards to size length ways first and you will not have this problem.

CapnChkn · June 25, 2011, 11:57:47 PM

joebrown · June 26, 2011, 12:11:24 AM

Standing the board on its end will solve that problem. Just cut the board to the correct length and stand the board on its end to cut the joints. Adjusting the height of the blade will adjust the depth of the joint section being cut. This is a lot of extra work though. Butt joints with some glue and screws or nails work great for me. Never had a problem and it is much easier.

PeeVee · June 26, 2011, 08:42:25 AM

Check out some online video for table saw use. There are a great many tips for building jigs. These jigs will hold work pieces stable while running through the saw blade. Work pieces that are not stabilized when going through the saw rapidly become projectiles and the saw blade does not recognize the difference between wood and fingers :shock:

Tommyt · June 26, 2011, 12:11:45 PM

This may help?If finger/dado joints get too you!
Use 25yr. latex caulk,its cheap and good for 25?
make your bee box with,Butt Joints,glue,screw & caulk
Butt Joints leave one entire board @ each of the 4 corners
with exposed grain ......so too save or extend life of this open grain
put a small coat of caulk on the open end let it Dry,
when all caulk and glue is set
Paint it well.
I feel if you use 25 year caulk,keep paint on
your hives ,They will live long.
This is my view, as a new keeper but old
construction work related,jack of all :)
One lesson I learned, If you can't cut it,
Screw it :-D

Tommyt

wayne · June 26, 2011, 01:58:08 PM

Sounds like you don't have much experience with a table saw. Always adjust the blade to extend above the board far enough to make the cutting angle as steep as possible. This alows you to clearly SEE the blade and the cutting edge, and to reduce the amount of wood the blade is cutting at one time which cuts down on kick back and binding.
All that exposed steel looks dangerous but having several inches of the blade hidden under the edge of the wood is worse. It will sneak up on your fingers down there. The saw should have a guard, but many don't.
Second go get a Dado blade. A cheap Sears dado set can be found on Ebay for less than $50 and will save you a ton of work. A home made box joint jig can be made from scrap wood and a few screws, and with a little practice you are set to make the joints for your boxes.

VolunteerK9 · June 26, 2011, 04:06:47 PM

Quote from: ApisM on June 25, 2011, 06:27:33 PM
Thanks. Those are great plans. In regards to the Dado Blades, I don't have any. All I have is the 10" blade.

Just do a rabbet cut instead of the box joints. They hold up just as well with some Titebond II or III and screws.