Question on feeding questions.

Started by oblib, November 18, 2011, 10:49:13 AM

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oblib

On this and other forums I continue to see people asking how/what to feed now that it is getting too cold to feed. At first I didn't think anything of it but as I see more and more of them, and from northern beeks, I am wondering if I am off on what I thought the schedule should be.

I thought for me in central Illinois that I should do hive evals in mid October (temps avg low sixties for high high forties for low), feed as needed to get to needed winter weight and do any mite treatment I might decide to do. Then when removing the feeders possibly throw on a candy board for insurance and do any wrapping I decide to do and have the hives all done by Nov 1.

Then I thought it was time to just leave them alone until mid Feb when they begin to brood up for the spring. Looking for a warm enough day to quickly open the top of the hives to check stores and do any pollen patty/ feeding to stimulate brooding and/or prevent starvation.

Am I missing something? Is it normal to be trying to feed in mid Nov? Or, did for whatever reason a lot of people just got behind and are now trying to scramble to get hives ready for winter?

mikecva

From my experience, beeks are always behind in something.  :lau:

My bees, in north-west Virginia, have not gone into their full winter cluster but are picking out spots (a very loose cluster.) They are finishing their fondant and have a water bucket outside to drink on cleansing flights.

On a warm day (>55) after they cluster, I will pop open the hive between the second and third box and slip in a pollen patty below their honey stores. This is usually about the end of December to the first week in Jan. but if no warm day I skip the pollen patty. I know this is not normal and would not recommend it for other beeks but it has worked for me.  -Mike
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Listen to others but make your own decisions. That way you own the results.
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Please remember to read labels.

Michael Bush

You have to play it by ear sometimes.  If it's September and there is still a fall flow, there isn't much reason to feed.  If it's September and the flow is over then if the hives are light, it's time to feed, if they are heavy, you don't need to feed.  If the flow doesn't end until October, maybe it could get pushed that far, but October, in my climate, would be pushing your luck as there is a good chance winter could set in and not let up, or it might not for another month.  If it looks like there is going to be no fall flow and it's August and the hives are light, you may need to start then...
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm en espanol: bushfarms.com/es_bees.htm  auf deutsche: bushfarms.com/de_bees.htm  em portugues:  bushfarms.com/pt_bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--James "Big Boy" Medlin

tsmullins

Things happen,

We caught a swarm September 19th, which is extremely late for SW VA.  So we have to feed now. 

Shane

L Daxon

#4
Although it is in the 40s today, we had 70+ a couple of days back and supposed to be 71 on Thursday. On the warm days the girls are buzzing around the open feeder looking for syrup.  I am afraid they are going to use up all their stores on the periodic warm days we have so I have been setting out 4 lbs 2:1 syrup in the open feeder on the days I know they will take it, if nothing else to try and cover their activity during the warm spells.  It is usually gone in an hour.  I have dry sugar on the top of each hive, hoping it will sop up any extra moisture given off from the syrup, as well as be a back up is they get short.  I figure by late Jan/Feb. I will have to put more dry sugar and pollen patties on.

It is tough when they keep breaking cluster cause we get 60 even 70 degree days a couple of times a month all winter here in Oklahoma.
linda d

Finski

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When some one starts beekeeping, the basic knowledge is when to prepare the  hive for winter and when to feed.
Professionals have 700 hives  and they start their feeding as early as possible.

3 hive owner can feed his bees in couple of days. But he needs the knowledge  what is a dead line to do that in this area. When it goes over, bees do not cap the food. If he bees can make  during all winter cleansing flights, it is very differnt than in north where bees stay in cottage 5-6 months without coming out.

USA as a whole is too big to discuss when to feed.
Southern beekeepers deliver all the time wrong advices to Canada and Alaska.
Then they attack on me when I try to save northern beeks.
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Language barrier NOT included

T Beek

First lesson of beekeeping?  As Finski points out very well;  "All Beekeeping is Local." 

An observant beekeeper, one who knows the natural rhythms of their own specific region, will be a good one IMO.

thomas
"Trust those who seek the truth, doubt those who say they've found it."

NJClydeDriver

Finski brings up a great point on top of location...how many colonies are you keeping?  Its very easy to wrap and insulate and go to the utmost help if you have 2, 3 or 5 hives but when you have 50, 100, 700 it is about what works the best and how easy can you get it done. (and how cheap)  So I think we also have to consider the number you are keeping when we talk about winterizing.  This can go from affordable to crazy expensive in a short time.       
"To succeed, jump as quickly at opportunities as you do at conclusions"
Ben Franklin

organicfarmer

i start evaluating my hives in Aug (as Michael Bush mentionned). In the past 2-3 years, fall has dished out some surprises. This year, with warm temp all through the Fall, hives that needed support have just seen their weight going down despite constant feeding as if they couldn't take it fast enough. Also because of the warmth, beekeepers have been able to feed syrup much later than other years, til end Oct here in E. MA. But if started evaluating in mid-Oct, i'd be way behind every year.

T Beek

Quote from: NJClydeDriver on November 22, 2011, 10:11:59 AM
Finski brings up a great point on top of location...how many colonies are you keeping?  Its very easy to wrap and insulate and go to the utmost help if you have 2, 3 or 5 hives but when you have 50, 100, 700 it is about what works the best and how easy can you get it done. (and how cheap)  So I think we also have to consider the number you are keeping when we talk about winterizing.  This can go from affordable to crazy expensive in a short time.       

IMO; if you have too many to properly care for, then you have too many.  Enlist some help or downsize.

thomas
"Trust those who seek the truth, doubt those who say they've found it."

Finski

Quote from: T Beek on November 23, 2011, 08:01:44 AM


IMO; if you have too many to properly care for, then you have too many.  Enlist some help or downsize.

thomas

when I have heard the systems of professionals, they are crude  and quick. I cannot stand those habits.  I mean there is not style like "properly care".
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Language barrier NOT included

T Beek

Working with a big (over 1000 hives) outfit was my entry into beekeeping almost 40 years ago (1974).  I've had to 're-learn' everything those folks ever taught me about keeping bees :(. since getting back into it.

thomas
"Trust those who seek the truth, doubt those who say they've found it."