Beehive measurements

[Summerbee]

Hello folks,

 I'd like to get into beekeeping; and wondered if there are different measurements (standards) of beehives and frames and such?  Or are all Langstroth hives the same? B/c you look @ order catalogs and there are so many diff. measurements, which one do you choose?
 On another note, do you have to replace the comb in the frames ea. season?
Also does anyone know where you can order Midnight Bees?

Thanks ever so much!

[Apis629]

To my knowlage Midnight hybrids are available only through York Bee Co.  They were recently bought out by some other company but their contact info is as follows...

P.O. Box 307
South Macon St. Ext.
Jessup, GA. 31598-0307
phone: 912-427-7311
fax: 912-427-4131
email: [email protected]

Hopefully that's enough for you.  As for plans for the sizes of parts you can download that in PDF format at http://beesource.com/plans/index.htm

As for replacing the combs each season.  I don't see much of a reason to replace brood comb in the first two or three seasons but, after that you'll want to start culling it with new foundation because the larval cucoons are left behind and gradually reduce the diameter of the cells and can better hold on to patogenic bacteria (i.e. AFB).  What I find works best if you're using hard plastic foundation is to cut off the comb, dip the foundation into boiling water and reinstall it into the frame.

[Jerrymac]

Hello folks,

 I'd like to get into beekeeping; and wondered if there are different measurements (standards) of beehives and frames and such?  Or are all Langstroth hives the same? B/c you look @ order catalogs and there are so many diff. measurements, which one do you choose?

Most all Langstroth boxes measure the same from front to back and from side to side. The different measurements are the depth of the boxes. Deeps are usually used for the brood. Mediums and shallows are usually used for the honey crop. But one thing about bees, they never read the book on beekeeping and don't know any better. If you want a different set up from all others, go for it.

[Michael Bush]

As already said the outside dimensions of standard equipment for width and length are constant.  Standard is 10 frame and is 16 1/4" by 19 7/8".  Depths vary, but if it was me I'd get all the same so the frames are interchangable.  Since a 90 pound deep full of honey is too heavy for me that would be mediums.  Since I'd rather have even smaller, I've gone to eight frame equipment.  This, apparently, varies somewhat in size weather you're in the east or west, but the Eastern standard being offered by Brushy Mt is 13 3/4" by 19 7/8".

There are other kinds of hives, but, at least in the US, they are not standard.  There are Bristish Standard hives, WBC hives, DE hives and others.

[Summerbee]

Thanks everybody, I apprec. your help!  
 
Does anyone have any suggestions on beginning w/ equipment - should you buy a starter package or bits and pieces?  I was looking at Dadant and Sons, b/c they have a post near my area (Central FL).  Is "seasoned" equipment better than brand new stuff?  W/ new hives and everything you don't have to worry about mites, but do bees prefer a place that smells like bees already?  Or would the conflicting pheromones of the other previous colonies just upset them?

 Also, is a coastal area OK for bees?  We have a lot of marshy area and grasslands w/ blossoming plants, but I always thought bees prefer more of a wooded area.  Does it matter?  
Gracias!

[Anonymous]

Summerbee, there's been some great discussions on here about beginner equipment and "packages".  The starter kits aren't that bad, but you could shop around and compare what they're giving you with what you need.  Here's the basics for a single hive for a beginner with no equipment whatsoever:

Two deep hive bodies with 10 frames wired foundation each
Inner Cover
Bottom Board
Outter Cover

One gallon feeder bucket

Hive Tool

Smoker

Tie on veil with helmet  (Wear jeans and a heavy long sleeve grey sweatshirt until you shop around for a nice jacket with zip on veil)

Yellow rubber dish gloves (they'll make you feel a little more secure, even if bees can sting thru them)

A three pound package of bees

The book, Beekeeping for Dummies, or Dadants "First Lessons In Beekeeping"

Two cement blocks for a stand.

Bag of cedar pet bedding for smoker fuel.

Hmm.  Seems I'm forgetting something.  Maybe not.

Oh, yeah.  Spray bottle for installing package of bees.

And, if you're lucky, you might need a couple supers.  I'd start with two mediums with comb foundation.

Have fun!   8)

[Jerrymac]

I started B-keeping this year by capturing ferels. The first thing I learned is I never had enough equipment ready. (Boxes, frames, tops, bottoms.) there were always more bees to get.

[Michael Bush]

I'd save your back and keep things standard and buy all mediums.  :)

I changed over and have never regretted it.

[Jay]

I'm with Michael, I run an unlimited brood nest and there is just nothing easier than swapping out frames from supers to brood nest when you get brood in your supers. Or taking a couple of frames from a strong colony to help a weaker one weather it be in the form of honey or brood frames. Everything is all the same size so everything is uniform ( and soooo much lighter !!!! )  :D

[Michael Bush]

As far as a start kit, no, I wouldn't buy one.

They will sell you a boardman feeder, which will set off robbing.  I like almost any feeder better than this.

They will sell you a small smoker.  The large ones are easier to light and keep lit.

They will sell you just a veil.  I think a beginner is better off with a jacket with a zip on veil.  After you have more confidence, on a hot day, you might like just a veil.  Frankly I never use just a veil.  I have a Bug Baffer jacket I wear in those kinds of situations where I don't need "sting proof" but I want some protection.

They will sell you a standard hive tool.  I only use the Italian one from Brushy Mt.

They will sell you (depending on the kit) one or two deeps and one or two shallows.  I would never buy either.  If I want cut comb I'd use mediums because I can manuever around any mistakes the bees make and get more good cut comb.  If I was extracting I'd use mediums because I can fit more in the extractor.  If I want brood chambers I use mediums because I can't lift a deep full of honey anymore without hurting myself.

They almost always sell you a solid bottom board and I'd buy a Screened Bottom Board.

They will probably sell you an excluder, and while they are handy to have around, you really don't need one.

They will sell you a telecspic top and an inner cover.  I prefer a migratory cover with shims to make a top entrnace and close the bottom one off.

So, basically, there is NOTHING in a beginners kit that I would buy.  Nada.  Not one item.  :)

[latebee]

Mr. Bush--since you have gone to 8 frame equipment have you changed any of your management procedures or wintering strategies? I have just"inherited" a good number of 8 frame hive bodies and would appreciate your input. Thanks!

[Michael Bush]

>since you have gone to 8 frame equipment have you changed any of your management procedures or wintering strategies?

Not really.  They usually seemed to go right up the middle of the ten frame boxes leaving stores on the sides so I actually get by with about the same number of boxes.  The strong hives are in three or four eight frame mediums and the smaller clusters are in two eight frame mediums.  I am also experimenting with some eight frame medium nucs (one box) and some five frame medium nucs this winter.

I keep adjusting my wintering slightly based on observations (and failures) overwintering nucs and also adjusting for the ferals' frugality.  The ferals drop back to a very small cluster and use very little stores over the winter.