Things I've learned the hard way so far....

Started by Serapax, January 05, 2006, 12:43:51 AM

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Serapax

Thanks to all of you veterans who take the time to answer what must be some very frustrating newbie queries.  It’s really been fascinating to see how the practice is done differently, according to climate, experience, desired results, etc.  The “Beekeeping for Dummies” book I started with a few months ago has proved to be an interesting and useful read, but in practice I’m finding it rather over-prescriptive and woefully inadequate compared to the wealth of experience and diversity of opinion here.

I really wish I had something to offer the community in return.  All I can offer now is some rather obvious observations that I had to learn the hard way.  Please feel free to comment and criticize â€" it’s the only way I’ll learn ;)

1.  A full depth box with 10 frames full of brood or honey is ridiculously heavy and awkward.  My initial thinking of "yeah, I can lift 50kg+ no problems" did not factor in the awkward positioning and maneuvering required.  In future, I will use shallow boxes for everything.  Well, maybe a single deep box for the bottom as it won't be lifted much at all.

2.  I started with diligently doing the “full inspection” routine of pulling out and examining every frame each time I opened the hive â€" which is every one or two weeks whilst I’m learning.  This was fine when I had one box, but now with three, both the bees and I were getting pretty fed up and angry with each other by halfway through the second box.  Besides, I started to worry that each time I did this, I greatly increased my chances of accidentally smooshing the queen.

The last few times I have just gone in with a specific purpose (eg. Adding a box, changing some old frames, replacing the bottom tray) and just pulled out 2-3 frames from one brood box to make sure there are eggs and everything looks good.  Plus a few honey frames to see how they look.  Now I can do the inspection in a fraction of the time and we’re all much happier about it.  Does this sound like a good approach, or does a proper inspection really have to involve pulling off every box and removing every frame?

3.  Make sure the smoker is going to go the distance.  Charcoal from a good dense wood will last for hours, but use willow, pine, or similar, and you’ll be stuck with no smoke and a hive that’s still open, boxes on the ground, angry bees…well, you get the picture.

….still having lots of fun though!

Cheers!

Mike

Finsky

Quote from: Serapaxand examining every frame each time I opened the hive â€"

That is no need.
- You just look the volume of brood, is the brood porous or healthy even
- swarming signs
- !! enough room for brood and honey

- follow how colony enlarge

You may keep brood boxes langtroth. They does not weight 50 kg.
So you have 2 brood box to check, not 3.

If you disturb too much one hive get them more to tease. :P

Serapax

Yes, I really wish I had more than one hive now.

Many times I've been tempted to just buy another queen and move one of the brood boxes onto a new base - or even let them raise their own queen.  I've read that brood rearing really slows down during the main flow, so I guess I am too late to do a split for this season.

The Finnish environment sounds fascinating - so very different to southern Australia!

Jack Parr

and if the hive smells good, then it's probably good.

There is pleasant honey smell that emanates from hives that should tell you, at least, something.

However, if the smell would turn sour, I think at that point there is something wrong and that something is well advanced, so I would not rely on smell exclusivly.  :idea: a COMPLETE inspection is called for from time to time and if nothing is wrong trimming/cutting/removing the unwanted comb is almost a must.

" Beekeeping for Dummies " was also my first read. This medium, the internet, and Finsky's admonishments :wink: , is very useful,  particularly when there are good images provided by posters.  I have read several books since the first and some are better than others, but all are good.

I agree, two, or more hives is needed for comparison and learning.

Michael Bush

>1. A full depth box with 10 frames full of brood or honey is ridiculously heavy and awkward.

I love my eight frame mediums.  :)

>2. I started with diligently doing the “full inspection” routine of pulling out and examining every frame each time I opened the hive â€" which is every one or two weeks whilst I’m learning. This was fine when I had one box, but now with three, both the bees and I were getting pretty fed up and angry with each other by halfway through the second box. Besides, I started to worry that each time I did this, I greatly increased my chances of accidentally smooshing the queen.

It's a useful thing when you're learning.  It's not necessary all the time.

>Does this sound like a good approach, or does a proper inspection really have to involve pulling off every box and removing every frame?

Yes it sounds like a good approach. No you don't have to remove every frame every time.

>3. Make sure the smoker is going to go the distance. Charcoal from a good dense wood will last for hours, but use willow, pine, or similar, and you’ll be stuck with no smoke and a hive that’s still open, boxes on the ground, angry bees…well, you get the picture.

I agree.  If I've got a lot of bee work to do I'll start a nice fire of dry sticks in the smoker. They last a long time.   I can add a little burlap from time to time, but the charcoal really helps.

There's nothing like a nice puff of smoke right when the bees are starting to get excited instead of ten minutes later when you get the smoker lit again.  :)
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm en espanol: bushfarms.com/es_bees.htm  auf deutsche: bushfarms.com/de_bees.htm  em portugues:  bushfarms.com/pt_bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
-------------------
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mick

Interesting reading this post.

I notice a nice honey smell from my single 3? or so month old hive. I havent looked in there since the heatwave a couple of weeks ago coz im afraid of what I might find (melted frames? who knows I will look soon). But I really think smell must be an important sign of a healthy hive. It makes sense.

If the bees are still around that must be a good sign of a healthy hive too I expect.

I really like seeing them all fly back with pollen attached to them, thats good and im guessing the ones that dont have pollen must have nectar or water.

amymcg

Things I've learned this year. . .

1 - Dont' worry so much, they know better than I do.
2- Flying bees are good
3- Bees with pollen are good
4- All those bees flying around the hive at 3pm are not robbers.
5- A full deep of honey is too heavy for me to lift off the ground without having to put on the heating pad later.  
6- Kung Fu class makes you strong enough to lift full deeps of honey.