Entrance Hole Drilled In Deeps

[Bush_84]

Hello all!  I have seen hives with an entrance hole drilled in each deep hive body.  I believe this is something they advocate at the university of minnesota.  Here is a link (below) illustrating such from the u of m website.  What do you all think?  Anybody do this?  I can easily drill them to 7/8 inches which is the size of a wine cork...I have plenty of those.  So I can plug the holes as needed.  Sounds like a quick and easy way to increase or decrease ventilation without extra equipment. 


http://www.extension.org/pages/25568/wrapping-a-colony-for-a-northern-winter#.UyCm-ye9KSM

[danno]

3/4 is the size that a wine cork will plug

[Bush_84]

I've used 7/8 and have not had issues. 

[HomeSteadDreamer]

Our brew shop carries corks in a variety of sizes. just like nails they get a number #2, #6  I don't have a list of the standard sizes handy but I'm sure google could tell you.

[Bush_84]

I use corks for homebrewing.  So maybe they are slightly different.  Either way....what about drilling holes into my deeps? 

[HomeSteadDreamer]

I would.  I am about to try and super my TBH with a lang deep.  I intend to drill a hole in my lang box so that the forages can get to the honey without crossing all my brood comb.  I would like a top entrance but down here I'm afraid it would leave it too open to SHB. 

Just note my opinion comes with little experience (alot of reading). Since you can plug them up if needed I don't see the harm and I see lots of upside.

[Leather Jim]

7/8 hole and a #9 cork works great

[Dr. B in Wisconsin]

Hey wait a minute, I thought that was my idea, lol, I have been doing that for years and they use the holes quite a bit, I have one or two holes in each box and if it gets cold just plug them up and when its extra hot open them up. I cork them up in the winter.

[Bush_84]

I guess that's enough to go ahead and do it.  I will have to put it on the list!

[rwlaw]

Cuts down on the traffic on the bottom board during the nectar flows.

[Dunkel]

I have 20 or 30 deeps with holes from the previous owner.  I hate them.  Have to remember to plug them up if moving.  They stayed plugged most of the year for me.  Also I find the queen doesn't like to lay on that side of the frames if they are open.  I don't know if its the light or the ventilation.

[Michael Bush]

I hate holes in my boxes.  I can get the same thing so many other ways, I see no reason to drill holes.  You can do an Imirie shim in the middle and shims under the inner cover at the top...

[danno]

I'm with Bush on this one.  I get my upper entrances by using all season inner covers.  If it were me I would try a couple not all.   I bought a bunch of hive bodies years ago that the guy had drilled.  Some he even drilled on both sides.  I plugged them all

[Leather Jim]

Ok, I have a question. With JUST upper entrances do you get the necessary ventilation? Especially during the winter months. It's confusing sometimes due to the widely varying methods used by the more experienced folks, for example, Mike Palmer runs wide open bottom entrances with just a mouse guard shoved in it and upper entrances to ensure air flow even in the winter months to prevent moisture build up.  Let's kick this around a little.

Jim

[T Beek]

Lots of beeks use 'both' top and bottom entrances, myself included.  Cutting a small (1/4" x 2") notch in your inner covers, placed notch side down creates a fine top entrance.   An added benefit is that as the colony expands, one only need 'raise' the inner cover and add space appropriately.  If you're using SBB along with top entrances ventilation 'shouldn't' be much of a problem. 

Never liked the idea of drilling holes in perfectly good equipment.....but each to their own.  Many Beeks do practice this method... :)

[danno]

Ok, I have a question. With JUST upper entrances do you get the necessary ventilation? Especially during the winter months. It's confusing sometimes due to the widely varying methods used by the more experienced folks, for example, Mike Palmer runs wide open bottom entrances with just a mouse guard shoved in it and upper entrances to ensure air flow even in the winter months to prevent moisture build up.  Let's kick this around a little.

Jim

Yes I get great ventilation with a mouse guard over a 3" bottom entrance and a 1 1/2" top entrance.  With the all season inner covers I add insulation which prevents any moisture from freezing to the underside of the cover.   With this system moisture is never  a issue

[Joe D]

I do like T Beek, except I have a 3/8" x 1" gap in inner cover on three sides.  I don't put one on the north side.  The bees use them a lot.






Joe

[Michael Bush]

>Ok, I have a question. With JUST upper entrances do you get the necessary ventilation? Especially during the winter months.

Moist air is lighter and rises.  Warm air is lighter and rises.  Yes just a top entrance works fine.  But while I only have a top ENTRANCE, there is some air leaking in the bottom either around the tray or from the screened portion of my bottom board feeders, at least in the summer when that screened portion isn't covered in snow.

[Carol]

I live in Central FL. I have 2 hives with 2 deeps for brood chamber. Right now I have one super on both and may have a second on one in a few days. I will be putting Greenbee's IPK trap under them as soon as they arrive. My question is:  with the screened IPK trap with entrance...would it be OK to add a small top entrance above the supers?. I have to leave for a few months and will have 3 supers on them when I go. From what I've read it seems it would make it easier for the "girls" to get to work.

Last year when I got back the 1st super was full of honey but they hadn't done anything in the top two and then threw off 3 swarms leaving me Queenless. I'd like to prevent that if possible. Thought the top entrance might keep them working up there.

[Carol]

I like the upper entrance idea for several supers...but worry about wax moths getting in. How small could the entrance be.